I tried contact cement first and it worked for about a week. The 3M super 77 sprayed with a heavy coating has held up for about a year now in the central FL heat and 1000's of miles. The 3M trim stuff is even stronger and if I would have seen it on the shelf I would have used it. I am NOT using the MB stock hood pad, I made my own out of the quilted fiberglass material which will not break down like the foam rubber pad that MB stock pads were made from.

Demon240 ,,, this is contact cement we are discussing, just two different strengths...

If yall really want strong Contact Cement and don't mind spreading it you might try Barge Contact Cement... this is probably what the soles of your shoes are being held on with at this very moment... ( the sewing is just eyewash, the glue holds it on )...

Do I need to mention that you need to use this stuff OUTSIDE in a very well ventilated area ?

I've used the super trim adhesive, exactly as Greg has shown, on both the 123 and the 126. Followed the preparation instruction including the use of the remover for the old glue. Then I used the entire can on the pad and on the underside of the hood. I let it setup about five to ten minutes, as recommended, and the pad sticks perfectly

In fact, it sticks so well that you really need two people to set it in place. One false move with regard to misalignment and you just bought a new pad. It is almost impossible to remove without destroying the pad.

Is it possible that the problems have occured with the "Trim Adhesive" which is a lighter version of the "Super Trim Adhesive"
This version is not recommended for heavy hood pads. It is, however, readily available at PeP Boys and the tendency might be to try it because the "Super Trim Adhesive" is not stocked.


Brian Carlton
1984 300SD

I've been told that in super-hot climates, like Arizona, even the 3M stuff won't hold up. Down there they claim that "Liquid Nails - Commercial Grade" is the only thing that takes the heat. You must specifically get the Commercial grade tube, not the consumer/regular stuff. I plan to use that when I get my W123 hood pad (soon)...

Regards,

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Hey Dave,

What happens if and when you ever need to replace that hood pad after glueing it with "liquid nails"?

Brian Carlton

1984 300 SD

Probably remove hood, turn upside down on the lawn, and start chiseling. Seriously, though, after installing a new hood pad, it should last the life of the car. The original probably made it 15-20 years, do you really expect the car to last another 15-20? I bet we probably couldn't even order a new hood pad for it 20 years from now! Well, if we could, it would be mighty spendy. Or put another way, do YOU expect to own the car that long? If not, it will be someone else's problem a looooong time from now!

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Point noted. If the pad lasts 10 years, we do not need to worry about it

Brian Carlton
1984 300 SD

So I just installed my new pad using the General Trim stuff, because I didn't read the archives thoroughly enough... duh. Is there a good way to take it off? Maybe just let it start to sag, remove it carefully and re-glue with the right stuff? Suggestions? Thanks!

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Ash Peltier - tools, truck, tales
---------510-331-4118-----------
1982 240D - (272,000)
1998 Honda VTR1000F(RT) Superhawk Freeway (58,000) "Madrid"
1996 Toyota T100 4x4 (84,000) "Mary Kay"

The General Trim Adhesive might just be OK if the replacement pad is not all that heavy. My pad from Performance Products was certainly not a very heavy item and was not as good as the factory pad. I would just leave it for now and see how it does.

Yea, that's my thought, too... it's REALLY light material. Substantial foam, but low mass. I figure it'd be silly to work at removing it carefully, instead of seeing whether it comes off on it's own, which it probably will... the pad laying on the engine isn't like a circlip dropped down the cases. No harm, no foal.

__________________
Ash Peltier - tools, truck, tales
---------510-331-4118-----------
1982 240D - (272,000)
1998 Honda VTR1000F(RT) Superhawk Freeway (58,000) "Madrid"
1996 Toyota T100 4x4 (84,000) "Mary Kay"

I don't think it will come off on its own, unless the heat gets to it. If you used the whole can on it, and waited until it was good and dry, I'll bet you'll be fine.

I installed mine with three tubes of Liquid Nails. Probably a little overkill, huh. The stuff doesn't stick well at first, which is somewhat annoying, but at least it doesn't set too fast so you have time to get the pad in place & lined up well. I had to go over the whole pad many times with my hands and a little roller to get pressure to squish down the beads of adhesive. When dry, it's on there SOLID. Looks great, too:

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Hey Dave,

That is a really good quality pad. Not like the cheap P/P pad that I have on the SD. Where is it from?

I used Liquid Nails construction adhesive and applied it with a claulking gun. It's still working fine after more than a year. Larry

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1985 300TD
2001 Jetta TDI
1996 Passat TDI wagon

I used 3m Super adhesive and waited for about 20 minutes after applying it to both surfaces. It sticks incredibly well, as the two jobs I have done on two different pads have held without question. I truly think the key is waiting for it to dry just like the other gentleman said.
Adam