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  #1  
Old 12-06-2003, 08:25 PM
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Moog or Lemforder for lower ball joints?

I want to do control arm bushings on my w116 300SD. I found upper control arms on ebay for $34 a piece! They are new from cybertroll. I am also going to do my lower B-joints while I am in there. Which brand should I buy? Fastlane lists lemforder and moog as the only two options. When I bought my tie-rod ends from Phile they were Lemforder. Do I just need a press to remove the old ones and install the new ones? If I do I will get it from Autozone from their Loan-A-Tool program. Are the ball joints going to be pressed into the upper control arms or is it just one big piece? The ones I will get have the ball joints with them but I don't know if they are one piece or not. I know sound like an idiot to you guys, but I appreciate any light that you can shine on this. Here is a link to the auction. Each auction is for one, but their are several auctions going on at once. I guess I specify if I want left or right for each auction I buy. at.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33583&item=2446544357
Thanks
David
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  #2  
Old 12-06-2003, 08:29 PM
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Will I also need to buy the upper control arm bushings?
Thanks
David
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  #3  
Old 12-07-2003, 12:57 AM
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Since I've just gone through my own front end - EVERYTHING replaced!, I'll try to answer your question(s)

The upper control arm has the upper ball joint permanently installed into it, there's no changing out JUST the ball joint, so no need to worry about that, a real easy, straight forward change.

The control arm comes with the inner bushings, but you WILL need the OUTER bushings for the upper controls arm, they cost around $2-3 each and you'll need two.

As far as brand on the lowers, whatever brand you buy WILL outlast the rest of the car almost guaranteed so just pick the cheapest and go with it.

The lower job is a little tougher, you WILL need the press and an air impact wrench to run the tool is "almost" a necessity. Pounding the old joint out (after heating up the lower cont'l arm and letting it cool) is a chore and getting the new one pressed in evenly is another chore, but doable.

Good luck!
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  #4  
Old 12-07-2003, 09:00 AM
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Do the outer bushings have to be pressed or are they just "set" there and tightened down? Can you think of anything else I should do? Already done tie-rod ends and new idler bolt. Just those, especially the idler bolt made a HUGE difference. My bushings were worn so I just did the bolt. My old one's locking nut no longer locked.
Thanks
David
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  #5  
Old 12-08-2003, 12:07 AM
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Outer bushings just slip onto the sway bar then through bolt (with washers) and tightened down. No brainer on those.

Check the drag link (center tie rod) and the damper. Both pretty cheap and could be shot if the rest of the stuff is also shot.

Shocks???
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1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

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  #6  
Old 12-08-2003, 01:11 AM
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Lemforder, way over moog. I bought one of each for my balljoint replacement, I heard bad things about the moog before so it became a boot donor for the current balljoint (since it wasn't torn yet). Opening them up the moog had some cheap clamp that wouldn't hold, then had half the grease the lemforder did. I don't think the moog came with a new locknut either.

I didn't bother to use the press for the bushings, I stuck it in the vise and let it have the fun. I just did my front end as well, haven't yet drove it a good distance. I'm almost excited to go to college tomorrow, then again, maybe not....

Shocks can be changed any time, the front doesn't have to be apart for that.
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  #7  
Old 12-08-2003, 03:17 PM
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Mercedes-Benz lower ball joints are TRW. The ones I bought from the dealership when I replace mine were stamped with the star and TRW.
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  #8  
Old 12-08-2003, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by TomJ
Since
The lower job is a little tougher, you WILL need the press and an air impact wrench to run the tool is "almost" a necessity. Pounding the old joint out (after heating up the lower cont'l arm and letting it cool) is a chore and getting the new one pressed in evenly is another chore, but doable.
If the W116 front end is anything like a W123 the lower innner control arm bushings are a BIG job. You'll need a special spring compressor in addition. The W123 has some really long springs that are compressed by the suspension. I would seriously recommend getting the right spring tool since trying to improvise anything else can result in some serious consequences (such as getting you killed).
I would think that part is best left to the pros. The lower inner c-arm bushings were a 1/2 day job (tie rods and alignment included) on my W123 and it was done by a suspension specialist.
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  #9  
Old 12-08-2003, 11:28 PM
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While TRW may have the mercedes star on it are you sure that is OE? My old lower ball joint boots were made of rubber, the new ones whether moog or lemforder were a clear polyurethane. Both the moog and lemforder had a mercedes part number on them, the moog also said TRW on it but I'm not sure if both or either of them had stars. The pure fact that the Lemforder uses the Mercedes style clamp and the Moog uses some cheap imitation which doesn't work half as well makes me want Lemforder, the fact that the Lemforder uses double the grease (same) and comes with locknut makes it even better. The mercedes style clamp is annoying putting on, takes two vice grips and maybe a screwdriver to get on. The imitation Moog clamp went on with no tools! (it also came off with no tools, at least this happened before putting it back on the car!)
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Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
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2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k
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  #10  
Old 12-09-2003, 06:55 PM
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I am not doing the innre bushings on the lower control arm. The lower control arm is staying as is, except for the balljoint. All work that I am doing is stuff that can be done without compressing the springs. UPPER control arms, upper OUTER bushings, and LOWER ball joints. Sorry if there was any misunderstanding.
Thanks
David
P.S.
How do I check my steering damper?
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  #11  
Old 12-09-2003, 07:44 PM
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No problem David. Just wanted to give my iput if you had thought about the inner c-arm bushings. As far as the steering damper is concerned, is that the shock-like part that is attached the center link? The one on mine I think is bad because the outer sleeve is loose but it doesn't seem to affect the way the car steers.
~DJ
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  #12  
Old 12-09-2003, 08:20 PM
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Other than to see if it is leaking or not I don't think there is a way to check it.
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Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k
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  #13  
Old 12-10-2003, 12:21 PM
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Stupid question, but how can you replace the upper control arm/balljoint without the spring compressor. Doesn't the control arm hold everything in place, and therefore the spring would let loose if you unbolted the upper balljoint?

I did once see my mechanic remove the outer spindle without the compressor, stating that the shock would hold the lower control arm in place and hence keep the spring in place, but I thought it was risky, and went back into the waiting room!

GregS
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  #14  
Old 12-10-2003, 02:14 PM
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As far as Moog parts, some are cheap, but most that I've used have been fine. In fact, the Moog lower ball joints look better made than the ones I removed from the car.

Here's a pic of one that just came in the mail (notice that it DOES include everything that the Lemforder part does):



As far as removing the upper control arm without a spring compressor, the lower arm AND the shock hold everything together, there's no way the spring will come "flying out" and it's about a 10 min job (if the wheel is already off and car jacked up.)
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  #15  
Old 12-10-2003, 09:39 PM
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Mine came in the same box and same plastic covering but no plastic bag or locknut. Here are a couple pictures of comparison:
Attached Thumbnails
Moog or Lemforder for lower ball joints?-nov24-18.jpg  
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Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
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2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k
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