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#1
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Easy valve adjustment
I got a couple of the valves adjusted on the "81" 300d, non turbo that I bought yesterday when my home made, bent 14mm wrenches failed. One of then opened up so it would slip, I used cheap wrenches which was a mistake. I borrowed the "real" ones from a friend and took mine over to the vice and with the sawzall cut the pipe handles down to where there was only about 2" left. I am not used to doing the valves on a 617 and there was lots of stuff in the way and that #5, what a bugger. Anyway the point here is I completed the job in record time by loosening the adjusting nuts with the "real' wrenches and then using my "stubby' wrenches to finish the job. They worked great where the long handles of the "real" wrenches would hit things. I am going to make another set using craftsman wrenches but keep the stubbies for finishing. It really went fast without those long handles.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#2
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Steve:
My brother just bought two cheap wrenches for adjusting wrenches -- we will heat them red hot and bend them appropriately, probably going to have to grind one down to fit the lower nut. Don't know if we will put handles on them or not, not a big deal with some pipe and a welder. #5 is truely a pain, especially in a W115 chassis! Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
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Peter
I am only speaking from doing two 617s but it seems to me what makes #5 tough is the fire wall in the way, Also when I took all the linkage off the top of the valve cover that stuff was in the way on the middle valves. The stubby handles solved that space problem but are, I think, too "stubby" to break them loose. I was amazed at how fast it went w/o those long handles hitting obstructions. Steve
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#4
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Yeah, the firewall on the W115 is about half an inch from the valve cover!
Easy job on the 615, though, even without bent wrenches. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#5
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Cost of a valve adjustment
While on the topic of valve adjustment, what do shops (not dealer) charge for a valve adjustment on a 617? I'm just curious, never had it done by the shop. Anybody know?
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#6
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Stevo,
You should be careful using the stub wrenches because you might not get the lock nuts tight enough and they might come loose and the valve fall into the cylinder. You might do the final tightening with full length wrenches. I don't have any problem doing valve adjustments on my '79 and '80 300SDs with regular non modified straight wrenches. Valve falling into cylinder happened to me once on a 220D ( I didn't do the valve adjust job) and the valve , piston and rod went out thru the bottom of the oil pan. Engine still ran on 3 cylinders but of course there was no oil pressure and I knew it wouldn't run long so I shut it off.. P E H |
#7
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PE; how long does it take you to do a valve adjustment on your SD's? I have a '79 300SD and I was hoping that I wouldn't have to buy the MB ones. Also, what do you use to prevent the valve from turning? While we are remotely on subject, how often should I change the small fuel filter? And the big one? I figured whenever valve adjustments are done, but I didn't know if the smaller one should be done sooner. Also, I remember looking at Pindeksi's site and seeing all the cruise control linkage, etc. on top of the valve cover. I don't see my CC stuff there, would the PO possible have had it removed?
Thanks David
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
#8
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Quote:
I guess this can only stress the importance of tightening them properly.
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DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 |
#9
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David,
About 2 hours if I have to adjust all the valves. But most the time only a few or none have to be adjusted so much less time. I always measure the valve clearance before I loosen anything because most the time the clearance is OK. I adjust them every 25,000 miles. I know the manual says 15,000 miles but that is excessive on older broken in engines. I'm waiting to see if any of the valves need adjustment after 50,000 miles because none needed adjustment at 25,000 miles. I always set to the high side or the tolerance because the wear is that the clearance becomes less. I never had any trouble with the valves turning. Maybe I'm just lucky. Replace both filters as needed. When is it needed: When you notice a decrease in engine power on a hill. If you get clean fuel without any algae, the filters will last for almost ever. A new filter won't filter better than an old one: Just the opposite is true. That's not cruise control equipment on the valve cover. Its EGR valve controls. A '79 300SD does not have the vacuum junk on the valve cover because there is no EGR valve, a big plus. P E H |
#10
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"using the stub wrenches because you might not get the lock nuts tigh"
PEH Right...This might be one of those little gimmicks that are to much of a PIA to deal with, especially cause I don't work on many 617s....But what I have is 3/8 pipe handles that are now cut off, right, my stubbys, ok, for loosening and tightening I have a length of bar that slips in (mini cheaters). Might prove to be too much to keep track of but it is nice not to have those LONG handles hitting stuff. Ya I sure wouldn't recommend tightening or loosen those nuts with a stubby.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#11
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That doesnt sound easy, using the right wrenches then using the wrong wrenches, then using the right wrenches. Why dont you just do the job right, and start off with the OE tools, the Hazet ones available from samstag sales. You really need all three wrenches. For a few extra dollars you can get the ones with the MB logo, and the benz part number.
Samstagsales Wrenches
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Current Stable: 1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey. Former Mercedes in the Stable: 1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now) 1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold 1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold 1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold 1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold 1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020) 1992 500E 156k mi sold etc. |
#12
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Then get the feeler gauges and handle
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Current Stable: 1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey. Former Mercedes in the Stable: 1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now) 1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold 1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold 1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold 1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold 1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020) 1992 500E 156k mi sold etc. |
#13
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If you guys want, I could get a group buy going on all the correct tools for a valve adjustment??? If we could get Ten people it woudl be no problem. I have done a group buy on the Klann spring compressor with samstag tools last summer, so if you guys want to do it for this, that would be fine with me.
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Current Stable: 1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey. Former Mercedes in the Stable: 1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now) 1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold 1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold 1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold 1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold 1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020) 1992 500E 156k mi sold etc. |
#14
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Economic reasons
Hello Everyone
I would hazard a guess that the usual reason for not getting OEM tools is economics. I also believe in making my own tools, when I have time.
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#15
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When you can buy the right tools, and they are readily available, then do it. If not, then fab your own.
But bending craftsman wrenche into the hazet ones, that wont work, plus the head of the craftsman wrenches is too big and I think that you are going to round off the nuts on the top. I make my own tool, but usually not if I can buy it. Economics is good, but if you spend 20 dollars on junk wrenches, then another 10 hours messing around with them trying to make the hazet ones, thats a waste of time. I value my time at at least 10 bucks an hour doing nothing.... So Id rather buy the tools, but thats just me. Big Question, do you want to do a group buy on the correct tools?
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Current Stable: 1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey. Former Mercedes in the Stable: 1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now) 1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold 1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold 1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold 1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold 1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020) 1992 500E 156k mi sold etc. |
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