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  #226  
Old 01-19-2010, 10:43 AM
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In order to keep the intake sqeaky clean, EGR bypass and CCV (elephant hose) mod are the ticket. I've been running this configuration for some time now.

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  #227  
Old 01-19-2010, 12:45 PM
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Glow Plug swap in a 1997 E300D-Please comment

Well that is good to know regarding the intake manifold and will make sure it is spotless.

However I spoke to soon regarding how easy this Glow Plug replacement is going. I installed 5 of them but have been spraying Liquid wrench on #3 looking from the front for the past 24 hours. I had to get a pipe to put on the 3/8 ratchet for leverage because I did not have a 12mm deep socket in 1/2:
Been turningin very slightly while being cognizant that the ratchet isat a 90 degree angle so as not to put undue force on the GP. It however has been turning very slightly but is is still a bear to turn. The others wer tough until I broke the grasp and then it spun out smoothly. THis one is rough every part of the way and I am real real nervous that I may break it so I only do a little then spray more crap on it. I also heated up the GP with a torch but it has not helped. Is this normal or am I looking at possibly breaking this GP off. THanks
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  #228  
Old 01-19-2010, 02:05 PM
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This is a warning sign of eminent breakage! There is a finite amount of torque these things will take. If you search back through the threads, someone did some destructive testing on teh GP's and found out exactly what it takes to break them.

I can't remember exactly but 45N-M sticks in my head for some reason.

If you have a compressor and air impact wrench, you can try it at a very low setting to see if it breaks it loose. You can also try tightening it back, spray, wait, loosen, spray, etc... Both of these techniques take a great deal of time and patience.
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  #229  
Old 01-19-2010, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbeam View Post
I also heated up the GP with a torch but it has not helped. Is this normal or am I looking at possibly breaking this GP off. THanks
I think that heating the glowplug is going to make it tighter.

You might consider installing new glowplugs in the holes you removed, running the motor until it gets hot, and then going after the "Bugger Plug." Some folks report it has worked for them.

You are so, so close...don't get in a rush here at the end.
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  #230  
Old 01-19-2010, 05:20 PM
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What to heat

Heating may have several effects; I usually try to use it to expand parts to loosen their grip. It can also sometimes soften deposits that are reducing clearances. In this case I would try to heat the head around the plug quickly to avoid expanding the plug. I even heard mention of somebody applying dry ice to a part to shrink it, while heating the other, in this case the head. Steve
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  #231  
Old 01-20-2010, 07:48 PM
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OK Guys SUCCESS!! I finally got the last Glow plug out. What really discourages me is that this vehicle was ONLY serviced by a DEALER before I purchased it. When I got the last GP out is was a Bosch, the others were Beru. Which means at one time the dealer mechanic couldnt or didnt want to spend the time attempting to get the last plug out.This one was full of carbon and oozing gunk when it came out. Does not bode much confidence in Dealerships.

My last question is I already cleaned all the gunk out of the intake manifold, however when I took the paper towels out of the head ports I noticed all the gunk in these ports. Is it wise to attempt to get the crud out and risk much of it falling into the head/engine deeper? This is not dust but sticky gunk and not sure how much the vacumm can get. This engine has 185K on it.
Can I have some comments? Thanks
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  #232  
Old 01-20-2010, 09:06 PM
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I'd clean it as best you can, then crank the engine over for a few seconds to blow out any pieces that may have fallen into the prechamber.

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  #233  
Old 01-20-2010, 09:34 PM
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Wont this suck the gunk into the engine if the glow plugs are installed? Or are you saying to have the glow plugs removed?
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  #234  
Old 01-20-2010, 09:47 PM
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Sorry, I should have clarified... clean things up, then with the glow plugs still removed, crank over the engine. The compression pressure should blow out any debris via the glow plug holes. Nothing should fall into the combustion chamber, because the prechamber is in the way... debris would collect inside the prechamber, and cranking the engine should blow it out. Once you're happy with the cleaning job, install the new glow plugs. I'd put anti-seize on the threads but I thought I remember some mfr saying we shouldn't do that, although I can't for the life of me think why not.

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  #235  
Old 01-20-2010, 09:49 PM
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Well I already put anti sieze and installed the glow plugs. I would hate to do this over again. Do you think it would be wise to take them out again?
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  #236  
Old 01-20-2010, 09:53 PM
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Nah, if you've already got everything back together, I'd forget it. The intake manifold, and flapper valves, need to be really clean though.

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  #237  
Old 01-21-2010, 02:59 PM
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glow Plug swap in a 1997 E300D-Vacumm hoses

Wel after a few days I am now a bit unsure on where each vac hose goes. Could someone bail me out with some pics or help on where each hose should go on the intake manifold and the cross-over pipe? I would like to make sure they are correct before I install the intake manifold since it is quite tight when the manifold is installed. Thanks again.
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  #238  
Old 01-21-2010, 03:03 PM
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glow Plug swap in a 1997 E300D-Vacumm hoses

Just a note, I would have attempted to look at the EPCOnline for a diagram but I am a MAC computer user and that system does not support MAcs.
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  #239  
Old 01-21-2010, 03:22 PM
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Maybe this will help...
Attached Thumbnails
Finally - Step By Step Glowplug Change - '98-'99 E300!-vacuum-diagram.jpg  
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  #240  
Old 01-21-2010, 03:24 PM
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The EPC is really just a part catalog, designed to look up part numbers. It's not meant to show complete vacuum diagrams, although there are a handful of those in the EPC.

What you're looking for is the DVD service manual, or the WIS (Workshop Information System)... those have the complete service documents, including vacuum diagrams. I think they only run on Wintel, though - sorry. Why not run Win XP Pro in emulation on your Mac, using Virtual PC or similar software?



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