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  #1  
Old 05-29-2004, 07:13 PM
RLD RLD is offline
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Kickdown cable replace on '82 300sd

I'm trying to replace the kickdown cable on my'82 300sd. I have the pan and filter off,but I can't see how that thing hooks on there.How do I go about getting the old cable off and putting the new one on?

I know the cable is bad ( fitting all broken up topside ) and it was suffering from not wanting to shift up to 4th and wanting to downshift by itself once it got there.
Also, I slacked off the cablebest it would go, and it would shift up to4th easier, but would still downshift by itself cruising, but if I floored it, it would upshift to 4th and stay there while flooring it.
Should I replace the kickdown solenoid while I'm in there or wait and see what the cable does?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks--------Robert


Last edited by RLD; 05-29-2004 at 07:21 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-30-2004, 07:59 AM
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You have to drop the valve body and once it is out of the way you can see up in there to remove/replace the cable end.
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Old 05-30-2004, 08:53 AM
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There is an easier way with out removing the pan, disconnect the cable from the engine linkage first, that will give enough free play in the transmission. Remove the control cable from the transmission by pressing on the locking tap and at the same time rotating the cable housing CCW. Now you can pull the cable out of the case, with a needle nose pliers hold the TV rod, slide the cable loop off. Reverse the procedure to reinstall.

Since you removed the pan, the cable rod is connected to a lever on the valve body which pushes the throttle valve plunger; adjust the cable until the lever barely touches the plunger. Now you can fine tune the shifts. The Bowden cable ONLY controls shift timing; a tight cable = late shifts, a loose cable = early shifts.
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  #4  
Old 05-30-2004, 03:39 PM
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I'm not having much luck just twisting it out from the top ( guess I forgot to eat my wheaties ) , and it feels like the plastic is going to break if i put any more strain on it, so I might as well pull the valve body so I can fish the junk out.

Is there anything I should take a look at or clean on the valve body while it's off?

Thanks-------Robert
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  #5  
Old 05-30-2004, 05:16 PM
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You have a new cable, twist it off with pliers, any pieces will fall into the pan; none will inter the valve body. Even with the valve body removed, the cable comes off from the top. Eat a power bar.
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Old 05-30-2004, 05:17 PM
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No - just be particular removing it. If I remember correctly there are a couple/few parts in there that just kinda "lay" in a slot in the valve body.
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Old 05-30-2004, 05:23 PM
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C32 I did not realize you could do it that way. I dropped the vb when I changed mine out.
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Old 05-31-2004, 06:37 PM
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Engatwork,

with no hold down bolt on top I also though the cable unlock from inside the pan. After breaking one and costing me $$$$$, I figured out it was a twist and lock cable with the locking tab on top. But that was many years ago.
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  #9  
Old 05-31-2004, 09:37 PM
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I went ahead and pulled the valve body,and good thing, some of the little screens were a bit cruddy.At least it'll be easier for next time because that crud probably means some seals inside the valvebody are fading( it may have just been gasket crud, that old valve body gasket was comming apart over some of the channels ).

Now all I need is the torque spec for the valve body bolts and I'll have it back together.
Anybody got that handy?

Thanks---------Robert
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  #10  
Old 05-31-2004, 10:09 PM
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The filter bolts are 31in.lbs; valve body and pan are 71in.lbs
One bolt hole on the corner of the valve body is oblong; on the opposite side about 45deg. on the other corner the hole is round. Those holes are use to center the valve body, install them first hand tight only then install the rest of the bolts and torque.
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  #11  
Old 06-03-2004, 05:08 AM
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Cable in , new o rings on the kickdown solenoid assembly and a good cleaning and this thing is shifting GREAT now. Before , it felt like it was on it's way to rebuild city.

Thanks everyone------------------Robert
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  #12  
Old 11-10-2005, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C32AMG
There is an easier way with out removing the pan, disconnect the cable from the engine linkage first, that will give enough free play in the transmission. Remove the control cable from the transmission by pressing on the locking tap and at the same time rotating the cable housing CCW.
I'm attempting to do this job on my '82 300D, on which I believe the process should be the same as the aforereferenced SD. I've got the valve body off and the cable housing freed from the transmission, and everything is going well enough, except for the part about pressing on the locking tab. Is it the thing that surrounds the rod way up in the plastic cable housing? (Looks like two semicircles?) If so, how do I press it? Jamming a small screwdriver up there and rotating the cable housing isn't doing the trick. So close and yet so far; it is getting pretty frustrating.

Thanks for any help,
Tom
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  #13  
Old 08-01-2012, 02:57 AM
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Recycled

for member
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  #14  
Old 08-28-2012, 06:12 PM
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I noticed my kickdown cable is broken at the transmission and at the throttle linkage. I also don't know when the last time the transmission was serviced, so I have already purchased a new filter, pan gasket and Dex III for that job. So, aside from the new kick down cable, what else should I plan on replacing while I have the valve body off? Do I need a VB gasket in case mine is deteriorated?

When taking off the VB, are there any springs or things that are going to shoot out at me and get lost? Can I just pull it down, set it aside and not worry? Should it be cleaned with brake parts cleaner or anything since I will already have it off?

Thanks for any advice.
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  #15  
Old 08-28-2012, 09:04 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by eatont9999 View Post
I noticed my kickdown cable is broken at the transmission and at the throttle linkage. I also don't know when the last time the transmission was serviced, so I have already purchased a new filter, pan gasket and Dex III for that job. So, aside from the new kick down cable, what else should I plan on replacing while I have the valve body off? Do I need a VB gasket in case mine is deteriorated?

When taking off the VB, are there any springs or things that are going to shoot out at me and get lost? Can I just pull it down, set it aside and not worry? Should it be cleaned with brake parts cleaner or anything since I will already have it off?

Thanks for any advice.
Here is what you may find helpful.
Tha gasket would a wise idea.


Transmission:

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My Superior Shift Kit thread (W124 300DT)
My Superior Shift Kit thread (W124 300DT) - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

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Bowden Cable
Bowden cable... - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

Bowden - kickdown cable replace on a '1982 300sd
Kickdown cable replace on '82 300sd

Here is where the Bowden cable attaches at the transmission
Can we help this guy???

Transmission pan drain plug lbs torque
Transmission pan drain plug lbs torque - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

transmission bolt/nut tourque figures
transmission tourque figures - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

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I broke the K1 repair kit!!! What did I do wrong?
I broke the K1 repair kit!!! What did I do wrong? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

K1 Spring Kit
K1 Spring Kit - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

K1 Spring Kit repair diy
Mercedes w123 Maintenance: K-1 Spring Kit Replacement and Transmission Fluid/Filter Change

another K1 thread
another K1 thread - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

Run, don't walk, to the dealer, get a K1 kit!!!
Run, don't walk, to the dealer, get a K1 kit!!! - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

Slow leak around B2 Piston--change piston?
Slow leak around B2 Piston--change piston?

B2 Piston Failure
B2 Piston Failure - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

722.118 transmission B2 servo/piston *B2 Piston*
722.118 transmission B2 servo/piston - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

I Am Really Hurt Now *B2 Piston*
I Am Really Hurt Now - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

C220 won't go forward. HELP!!! *B2 Piston*
C220 won't go forward. HELP!!! - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

B2 Piston W124
B2 Piston W124 - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

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Vacuum Modulator links thread
Vacuum Modulator links thread - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

MERCEDES-BENZ TRANSMISSION VACUUM CONTROL SYSTEM "TUNING"
by Steve Brotherton First Published in: ImportCar Feb 2002
PeachPartsWiki: MERCEDES-BENZ TRANSMISSION

Transmission shifting response & “vacuum span” (Stevebfl, are you out there?)
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/19841-transmission-shifting-response-vacuum-span-stevebfl-you-out-there.html#post100041

Shift Flare 2-3, 3-4 '83 300D
Shift Flare 2-3, 3-4 '83 300D

************************************

Broken Neutral Safety Switch and replacing shifter bushings
Broken Neutral Safety Switch and replacing shifter bushings - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

Replacing all shifter bushings on W126 - p.1
Replacing all shifter bushings on W126 - p.1 - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

**************************

info on 722.3 - 722.5 transmissions
info on 722.3 - 722.5 transmissions - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

and for the 722.3 and 722.4
http://www.ganzeboom.net/images1/ganzeboom/parts/Mercedes/722.3,%20722.4.pdf
http://w126.pp.ru/akp722.pdf

722.3 transmission
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/other/tranny_722_repair.pdf

MB Automatic Transmission Overhaul Manual, some come with a DVD
Auto Repair Manuals for Car, Truck, Motorcycle, ATV, & Marine Manuals, OBD Scanners, & More!

European Import Transmission Manuals

Mercedes-Benz 722.3 / 722.4 Automatic Transmission ATSG Rebuild Manual - Softcover
Mercedes-Benz 722.3 / 722.4 ATSG Automatic Transmission ATSG Rebuild Manual - CD-ROM


.

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