Modified my torque control today. - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#16 09-04-2008, 12:53 AM

I disconnected one of the oil cooler lines when I did my rack limiter. The engine side screws I was able to get with a long screw driver reaching from behind the oil filter housing.

If I can get my bear claws in to remove the limiter with the filter in place, anyone can.

GREASY_BEAST · #17 09-04-2008, 07:34 PM

Sure... you can, physically... but dear god a filter housing gasket is what... $4? Why subject yourself to the abuse?

EDIT: Hey youngbenz, what are you running for a turbo?

DrewGerhan · #18 09-04-2008, 07:51 PM

I'm running the stock T3. I have the wastegate disconnected but limit the boost to under 20psi via la foot! I know, I know! Everyone has an opinion on it, but I have a spare turbo and I always keep an eye on my EGTs.

GREASY_BEAST · #19 09-04-2008, 11:45 PM

I wouldn't run the stock turbo higher than 16psi... IIRC thats where the turbo leaves the map and the compressor wheel is stressed beyond what is prudent... also starts making heat. A turbo will be the last of your worries if your engine sucks compressor fragments, however unlikely the event may be, you would probably be better off with a bigger turbo that flows efficiently. I am currently running a Holset HX30 w/o intercooler, no rack limiter, and mild torque control tweakage and getting acceptable EGTs even on long uphill pulls (never gets above about 1050F). Also made a noticeable power increase, having the extra flow at greater efficiency.

#20 09-05-2008, 05:08 AM

More than 15psi on the MW injection pump, even with the rack limiter removed, is a waste of energy because the turbo is making more than necessary restriction to the exhaust. The 5x5.5mm plungers can't move enough fuel to make use of more boost than that.

Deni · #21 09-05-2008, 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

More than 15psi on the MW injection pump, even with the rack limiter removed, is a waste of energy because the turbo is making more than necessary restriction to the exhaust. The 5x5.5mm plungers can't move enough fuel to make use of more boost than that.

Is this the same for the euro w201 with the 602 turbo engine?

DrewGerhan · #22 09-05-2008, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GREASY_BEAST

I wouldn't run the stock turbo higher than 16psi... IIRC thats where the turbo leaves the map and the compressor wheel is stressed beyond what is prudent... also starts making heat. A turbo will be the last of your worries if your engine sucks compressor fragments, however unlikely the event may be, you would probably be better off with a bigger turbo that flows efficiently. I am currently running a Holset HX30 w/o intercooler, no rack limiter, and mild torque control tweakage and getting acceptable EGTs even on long uphill pulls (never gets above about 1050F). Also made a noticeable power increase, having the extra flow at greater efficiency.

I have been looking at getting a new turbo. What can you tell me about the HX30s?

winmutt · #23 09-05-2008, 02:43 PM

Bolt on T3 flange. Not sure about the rest of the plumbing.

Just get a VNT if your gonna do most of the work.

GREASY_BEAST · #24 09-05-2008, 02:56 PM

Get a vnt if you want to spend the time and money, HX30 is working great for me. You need a 3/8" spacer between the turbo and the manifold to make the compressor housing clear the egr bump on the manifold, you can hook up the exhaust to the exducer? fairly easily using parts left over from the T3, you will need to do something about the oil fitting, I used a flare fitting on the metal tube to a copper tube with a compression fitting that goes in the HX30, its a metric fitting that uses an ORing. Wastegate plumbing is as usual... not much else to say really... Oh yeah, I had to put longer studs in the manifold, autozone has them. Its really not a very big job, I cut the spacer out of 3/8 plate using a drill press, hacksaw, and round file. Could have gotten away with a hand drill, but it would have been unpleasant.

And I don't believe for a second that the MW pump can't move enough fuel to outdo a T3 at 15psi... Injectors and delivery valves.

DrewGerhan · #25 09-05-2008, 03:28 PM

What would be a good turbo to look for? I know all about the pump and engine workings, but I'm lost as to turbo maps and sizing and what not.

winmutt · #26 10-06-2008, 11:22 AM

A warning note. I did this this last weekend and found that the inner nut turned with the lock nut, I have no clue what the settings are at this point and may need a new IP. Once the lock nut is cracked I highly recommend using a small screwdriver to turn the inner nut and to pretighten the outer nut. Am waiting for new cooler lines (what sent me down this trek in the first place) so I have no real clue how bad it is off at this point. I may need a new IP when it is all said and done.

GREASY_BEAST · #27 10-06-2008, 09:47 PM

Sorry to hear that. For others, and future reference, it helps to stick the screwdriver through the socket, hold onto the socket with the fingers of one hand and turn the screwdriver with the other, that way you can hold the adjustment screw in one place and bring the locknut up to "snug", then turn the locknut with the ratchet to tighten it. This method still results in the adjustment screw turning another 1/8-1/4 turn. Thats what makes this adjustment such a pain. It is adviseable to take a digital photograph of the rear of the un-covered pump before adjustment so as to provide a reference if things go bad. Also record the directions and approximate magnitude of each and every movement. That way, at least you have a hope of getting things back to normal. It makes the job take twice as long or more but it can be worth it. It was for me.

Ian White · #28 11-30-2009, 01:50 PM

Young, is this mod worth it? I don't want to sacrafice too much mileage, but I want to increase power... Suggestion needed!

DrewGerhan · #29 11-30-2009, 03:19 PM

For me it was. I'd suggest taking the pump off the motor each time to turn it up. Make sure you go in small increments and be sure to make the pump in some way, paint marker or digital picture, BEFORE YOU START TOUCHING ANY INTERNALS! I can't stress that enough.

Once you get the hang of it, the pump can be R&R'd in 25 minutes. Thats my record, starting from taking the lines off and ending with the car running.

Ian White · #30 12-01-2009, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YoungBenz

For me it was. I'd suggest taking the pump off the motor each time to turn it up. Make sure you go in small increments and be sure to make the pump in some way, paint marker or digital picture, BEFORE YOU START TOUCHING ANY INTERNALS! I can't stress that enough.

Once you get the hang of it, the pump can be R&R'd in 25 minutes. Thats my record, starting from taking the lines off and ending with the car running.

And you made that time ans still resat the timing?