OM603 Performance - Page 12 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

DieselPaul · #**166** 06-29-2010, 06:50 PM

I know, when a city vehicle hits my 300D and I get a new paintjob at their expense I'll get the 90+ fender and the 94+ nose. Fingers crossed haha.

DieselPaul · #**167** 10-03-2010, 10:16 PM

Well I finally had time to put the tank in the 300D today. The old tank had an inch of crud in the bottom of it. Pretty nasty. But I found this on the size of my old tank,

Looks like Oscar has rotted out a tank before, or the old one was damaged in the accident that salvaged him.

What would cause my car to go through tanks? I replaced the hoses on the bottom of the tank, the strainer, used a viton o-ring, new screw type clamps, new fuel cap, new body to filler neck gasket, and I used smear of silicone on the sending unit cap.

Here are some of the other pics

I put in a new Mann main filter and a Bosch pre-filter. I forgot to blow air through the feed line for the fuel, I did blow air through the return but I doubt there was much crap in the return. I'll probably change the pre filter after couple days just to ensure all the remaining gunk has worked its way out of the system.

I have delivery valve seals up next. The car still shakes like hell and still is a little down on power. My shifts are sometimes hard, sometimes soft. After DV seals I'll put in new nozzles. My goal is to be done before the first snow because I have a feeling the car will be hard to start in the cold more than usual with bad fueling.

DieselPaul · #**168** 10-05-2010, 11:56 AM

Well my coolant light came on today as I was nearing home, it would come up to the middle of 80 and 100 then when I would move it would come down. We stopped at a post office box and headed home. Then my needle hit 100 and sat there. I pulled off an shut her down. Popped the hood to find a steam cleaned engine bay and no coolant. I'm pretty sure my lower hose went bad. So I walked 3 blocks home, got 3 gallons of ice water, filler her up and made a break for home. Didn't get above 100* in the drive home but left a hilarious consistent trail of water the whole way to my house. It still runs fine and it never got hot hot so there shouldn't be any major damage, just another annoying cooling issue.

Looks like I'll be buying all the radiator hoses for good measure.

babymog · #**169** 10-05-2010, 12:12 PM

Hmm, cold water in a hot casting, ... let us know how the head and block faired.

DieselPaul · #**170** 10-05-2010, 02:16 PM

Ice water isn't really true, it was tap water and the motor cooled for 40 minutes in between. On the few minute drive home it seemed fine.

babymog · #**171** 10-05-2010, 05:22 PM

Whew.

DieselPaul · #**172** 10-05-2010, 06:19 PM

I had to walk home, find a bucket, then walk back. I found my spare hose. I'll throw on my spare hose tomorrow (gotta work tonight) fill with water drive to my garage on the other side of town, drain the system and wait for all new hoses and OE coolant to come in.

Thoughts on URO hoses? I can buy all 3 for like $45.

How many gallons of Mercedes Benz coolant will I need for the job?

winmutt · #**173** 10-06-2010, 03:29 PM

GSXR noted that one can rotate the IP to get to the ALDA. Anyone got a link to it? I spend atleat 30min cursing whomever said you can pull the ALDA off without removing anything. Clearly the fuel lines are in the way (87 #14 head).

babymog · #**174** 10-06-2010, 03:56 PM

But you can adjust it, ...

DieselPaul · #**175** 10-06-2010, 04:55 PM

I pulled the intake manifold to get to it, it didn't take too long and made a big difference in my cars performance.

winmutt · #**176** 10-06-2010, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

But you can adjust it, ...

How can you adjust it without removing it? Thats all I was looking to do.

jonbobshinigin · #**177** 10-06-2010, 10:34 PM

Probably not...unless you make some custom flathead/right angle. I had to work it a bit to get mine off without removing the Manifold, but it was doable. Just don't be afraid. I may have removed a clip from the lines to get it off as well.

gsxr · #**178** 10-06-2010, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DieselPaul

Thoughts on URO hoses? I can buy all 3 for like $45.

I have yet to find anything made by URO that isn't total junk. Stick with OE coolant hoses unless you're trying to patch the car up & dump it. Along with URO, avoid FEQ. The real stuff is worth paying double or triple.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DieselPaul

How many gallons of Mercedes Benz coolant will I need for the job?

Depends what percentage of antifreeze / level of freeze prodction you want. If you don't expect to have the car below 0°F, I'd flush the system thoroughly (including the block & heater core) and pour in 1 gallon of MB/G-05 a/f, then top up with water. A bottle of Water Wetter is optional. When I lived in Sacramento, I used 2 quarts of a/f for the system (approx 20%). Capacity on the 124 diesels is right around 9-10 quarts total, so 1 gallon gives you about 40%. Here in Idaho, I use 40-50% at most.

gsxr · #**179** 10-06-2010, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winmutt

How can you adjust it without removing it? Thats all I was looking to do.

It's nearly impossible to adjust the ALDA without either removing the ALDA from the IP, or removing the intake manifold to access the ALDA. If you don't remove the ALDA, you'll need to tear off the top metal canister/seal, then loosen the 10mm jam nut, and turn the threaded shaft (CCW is richer). If it's a virgin ALDA, try 1.0-1.5 turns CCW. Don't force anything - the nut & setscrew should turn without excessive force.

The pictorial on how to remove the ALDA from the IP with manifold in place is at this link. Note that this depends on the metal injection lines being situated such that they'll let the ALDA come out once it's unscrewed - some engines have the IP rotated (for injection timing) in just the wrong way so the ALDA is trapped by the metal lines.

winmutt · #**180** 10-06-2010, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

It's nearly impossible to adjust the ALDA without either removing the ALDA from the IP, or removing the intake manifold to access the ALDA. If you don't remove the ALDA, you'll need to tear off the top metal canister/seal, then loosen the 10mm jam nut, and turn the threaded shaft (CCW is richer). If it's a virgin ALDA, try 1.0-1.5 turns CCW. Don't force anything - the nut & setscrew should turn without excessive force.

The pictorial on how to remove the ALDA from the IP with manifold in place is at this link. Note that this depends on the metal injection lines being situated such that they'll let the ALDA come out once it's unscrewed - some engines have the IP rotated (for injection timing) in just the wrong way so the ALDA is trapped by the metal lines.

Ya there is no way to get at mine without removing manifold.... New gasket is already waiting at Rusty's.