The car vibrates really bad, which is where I got the "the car has a low rpm miss" but I took it to a car friend and we thumbed through the service history. Three different dealer services says Notes: NEEDS MOTOR MOUNTS. I tried to move the motor with it not running there doesn't seem to be a substantial amount of play in the motor mounts. But when you turn it on the motor shakes like crazy. Moves the exhaust and everything. In my brief look at the service history I never saw mention that the motor mounts got replaced.

In terms of the misfire, the idle is rock solid at 600rpms. If it was misfiring it would be a little dodgy wouldn't it?

So here are my questions!

-How to check my motor mounts, and what is the maximum allowable movement.
-How hard are they to get out? The p/n is the same as my E320 parts car, if they aren't to bad I was going to try the used ones first before I spend a chunk of change on new ones.
-What about the transmission mount? Would that do anything? The movement of the motor is left to right though, not forward backwards, or up and down.

Still wondering about the fuel lines, where is a good place to buy it (cheap) and that end plug?

So the big plan for this car one weekend when school permits is:
*Remove intake manifold
-glow plugs
-injector nozzles
-clean intake
-adjust alda
-general de-grime
-remove EGR
-new intake gasket
*Remove tank
-new, or sealed old, or new sealed tank
-new strainer
-purge lines
-new fuel filters

Maybe I'll be super cool and paint the intake and elbow with some etch primer and gloss black.

The engine mounts are fluid-filled. If there is evidence that the liquid has leaked out, they're shot. If they are riding low, they're shot. Check fan to bottom fo the shroud clearance, if the fan is low in the shroud, they're shot.

If the mounts are collapsed, the engine probably won't rock in its mounts as easily as if the mouns are in good condition, it's supposed to move to isolate the engine and prevent transmitting vibration to the chassis.

So, probably shot, and used are a crap-shoot.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

If it has a 'misfire', you'll feel it...both at idle and at speed (you'll feel a lopey power delivery up to maybe 2000 rpm, where it seems to smooth out). It's horrible at idle, noticeable from outside the car.

I broke an injector hard line (make sure you have the plastic clips!!!!), and was driving on 5 cylinders for a couple of days. My mounts are pretty much brand new and the idle was horrible.

Nice looking car

(It looks just like mine - even has a pin stripe. Medium red interior?)

__________________
1982 240D, sold 9/17/2008
1987 300D TurboW124.133 - 603.960, 722.317 - Smoke Silver Metallic / Medium Red (702/177), acquired 8/15/2009
262,715 and counting

Cars that run on 5 cylinders don't go 120mph pulling strong do they? The car sucks at low rpms but pulls like a train on the highway.

Yes it has medium red MB text.

Just so everyone knows where I am, this car has definite problems, and I am on a definite budget, but I love this car and do all my own work so it will be slow progress but I plan to fix this up and drive it for all the rest of school and beyond.

These motor mounts say they are german made, $60 for the pair seems like a good price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140304386879&viewitem=&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D2&category=50454

Here are the pictures:


Is the mount fluid green?




When the car is running the mounts almost seem like the sit higher. The mount has a lot of movement in the bottom, almost as if it is isn't bolted down on the bottom. Here are pics when it is running, but it looks like the mount is held on at the bottom



Now we were talking about the ALDA, is this the cap that has to be destroyed? Maybe it hasn't been screwed with.


Here is a video of it running, watch the whole thing please, I take you inside the car so you can see the idle. I am not the steadiest person, so some of the shaking is me, but most is the car

Here's a side-by-side picture I took of mine when I replaced them. Old versus new.



Could that green fluid be your windshield wiper fluid?

__________________
1982 240D, sold 9/17/2008
1987 300D TurboW124.133 - 603.960, 722.317 - Smoke Silver Metallic / Medium Red (702/177), acquired 8/15/2009
262,715 and counting

Mine looks to be flattened out like yours. It could be washer fluid, just babymog mentioned them leaking, that was the only sign of fluid I saw.

It appears from your video that the engine is missing at idle.
Loosen each injector line at the injector, one at a time, and see which one does not affect the idle. Likely one or more injectors needs replacement/rebuilding.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Some new nozzles came with the car I think they are those monark ones from eBay. Do those and new heat sheilds constitute a rebuild or do I need to buy other parts?

I'm out of town right now so I am posting from my phone

Honestly since it's just $100 for the nozzles and I have all 6 I'm not going to mess with looking for the bad one. When I get a non rusty tank I'll just do all 6. It's a 175k mile car that's been running on a a fine mix of rust for probably a couple years. It'll probably help to do all 6

I got a set of nozzles, they are from Italy. I also got a set of heat shields and a set of 6 complete used injectors to rebuild. Once I get the belt issue sorted and make sure the head didn't crack I'll be back on the road to making the 603 scream.

As it should.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

I have half an urge to build a "fast" 603. I may be buying a parts car soon... spare motor... got a friend who is professional head porter... another friend welds aluminum... but that's just an inkling in the back of my mind haha SO much to address first.

Anything I need to know about rebuilding injectors? I was thinking about just putting then new nozzles and shields in the spare set of injectors I have that way I can just swap them out when I change tanks.

1) Your engine mounts are toast. Replace them ASAP. You'll be amazed at the difference.

2) The poor performance off-idle is most likely low fuel delivery off idle, which you can adjust via ALDA setting. However it could also be other things... you need to check the chain stretch and IP timing, and make sure the fuel system is clear (no plugged filters or tank strainer).

3) The hard shifting is directly related to the low power delivery. Shifting on this engine is a direct function of throttle position. Since you have your foot further into the throttle than it should be to product "x" horsepower, it shifts harder. Fix the power problem, and shifting should improve drastically.

4) Don't expect magical results with new/rebuilt injectors, but it won't hurt.

5) Your video didn't have sound (at least, not on my PC) so it's hard to tell if you have a misfire or not.

6) Check the ELR (electronic idle control)... round black knob near the brake booster, pull out, turn to 1, push in. Idle speed should drop. Pull out, turn to 7, push in. Idle speed should increase significantly. Set it back to 4 when you're done. If there was no change in idle speed, the ELR isn't working.

7) If you install an EGT gauge (or intercooler) you can max out the full load adjustment and get a moderate power boost, approx 15% or so. Beyond that you need more fuel, which requires larger pump elements ($$$$).

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

More engine mount info:

http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/engine_mounts1.jpg
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/engine_mounts2.jpg
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/engine_mounts3.jpg