GSX-R the gas tank is full of rust. I have a feeling running crusty fuel through them has probably been hard on the injectors. First order of business is to get a clean tank and strainer in there because I KNOW that is a problem. Fuel filter could stand to be done but I don't feel like fouling out a new filter a couple weeks before I swap tanks. I am just waiting for some free time from school to really dig into the car.

My friends mechanic (same guy responsible for the belt throwing issue) was saying something about the timing chain, how do I check the stretch to make sure it isn't out of spec?

Agreed my mounts look like crap. Good news! I came out a few bucks ahead on selling my jeep tonight (emphasis on a few, not a lot but a few) so I can treat myself to some mounts. What do you think of the $70 "german" ebay units? I'll go ahead and order them soon. The mounts don't look too hard to change... are they?

The filter should have kept any of the crud from reaching the injectors. If the filter plugs, you'll have drastically reduced power output. If you pull the fuel tank, make sure you replace ALL the rubber hoses down below the tank while they're disconnected. Well worth the $$, and you won't want to ever pull that tank again (it's not fun).



This is relatively easy - pull the valve cover, remove fan+clutch, rotate engine by hand with 27mm socket on the crank bolt, line up cam marks, read number off balancer. Repeat 4-5 times and average the results. If the valve cover gasket is old and hard, it should be replaced. A fresh one can be re-used multiple times.

It's unusual to have a 603 chain significantly stretched. The factory procedure is shown here. The marks you are lining up are shown in this photo. It's ok up to 4° stretch, past that it should get a new chain. (The TSB says 3°, but the FSM says 4°, btw). There will be almost no change in power or MPG though (BT, DT). As the chain stretches it will make the IP timing retarded by half the amount... i.e., if the chain is stretched 3°, the pump timing will be retarded approx 1.5°. If you don't replace the chain, adjust pump timing to advanced side of spec (14° ATDC), if you do replace the chain, adjust the pump *after* the new chain is rolled in, not before.



You want to use OEM mounts (Sachs / Boge / Lemfoerder / Corteco etc). Do not use Uro or FEQ mounts, or any no-name mounts, they won't last. The "good" aftermarket ones are usually about $60-$70 each, the junk ones are usually $30-$40 each. The parts guys tell me the cheap mounts tend to fail within 6-12 months. The good ones will usually last 75-100kmi. If it makes you feel any better, new OE/dealer mounts are $124 MSRP each for p/n 124-240-19-17.

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-The rubber lines that run the length of the car? Is there some sort of kit? Or do I just buy lengths? Standard fuel line or is it some sort of braided line like for the injector returns?

-On the chain he is saying the chain tensioner is bad, apparently it just "sounds" bad. To me it sounds like a slightly misfiring diesel not like the chain is way out of whack. When I pull the valve cover don't I have to pull the turbo crossover? Is that gasket re-useable? I am replacing the fan along with the belt tomorrow morning and maybe I'll give this a shot if I don't have to replace the turbo crossover.

-Another hit against the ebay mounts. It is sounding like tomorrow will be a $130 morning haha. ******** has the Febi/Bilsteins for like $65 each.

In terms of drastically reduced output my car is horribly slow down low but when the turbo comes on it does get up and move. It is my understanding that with a clogged filter diesels have a hard time revving. This car is like the inverse. It is a pain to drive around town because it is totally gutless but has no issues maintaining over 100mph on the highway. So I am pretty sure the turbo is fine.

I posted a pic of the alda a page or two back, it looks like it still has the cap on it. Do they fall out of adjustment on their own? I was thinking I don't want to screw with the alda until I replace all the filters because I don't want to have to go back and turn it down once I am black smoking all over the place.

The ALDA does go out of adjustment on its own, there is an adjustment ritual in the FSM but most of us will just go with the 1-1/2 turn CCW and see how it goes. First however, see if the ALDA will hold 1bar of pressure at the line from the intake plenum, then blow into the switchover/overboost valve it should blow through clear, and blow into the fitting in the intake plenum, it should blow clear. Sounds like ALDA or pressure/signal path problems.

On the engine mount, I'm installing a cooling duct to the hot-side one like the E320 and E420 have, think it'll extend the mount life once I find a new under-belly cover.

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There are metal pipes running the length of the car. You want to replace the short rubber pieces between the tank and the hard lines... item #5 and #38 in this photo from the EPC. Should be part number 116-470-14-75 and 124-476-03-26, and no, they are not standard size hoses. About $25 for both. A new strainer & O-ring is p/n 124-470-01-06, another $20.


The tensioners rarely fail on the OM60x. It would probably manifest itself as a chain "rattle" on the passenger side. I've never encountered a bad one yet. If the chain was way out of whack (jumped tooth, etc) you'd have bent the valves already.


Yup, pull the turbo crossover pipe. The crossover pipe gaskets are re-usable multiple times, and the oval gasket is fairly cheap if you need to buy one. The thick green O-ring lasts almost forever. I hope you have the tools for the fan, otherwise it's a miserable job. With the proper tools you can have it off the car in <5 minutes.

Classic symptoms of low fuel delivery off idle - textbook case.


Correct again. Fuel supply or turbo issues would kill high-RPM power.


It's not really the ALDA, it's the injection pump itself. You tweak the ALDA setting to increase fueling. I also assume that you've checked the pressure lines leading up to the ALDA and that there is no restriction, particulary at the manifold fitting, or switchover valve (overboost protection). A simple test is to check boost pressure with a "T" at the ALDA.

Not likely you'd blow black smoke all over the place, except maybe at first as some carbon is cleared out of the engine. The ALDA R&R is pretty simple, and you can use a shim if you prefer to leave the tamper seal intact. Here's a photo tutorial - click the "ALDA_removal" links:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_injection/

We pull the radiator to change the fan, takes about an hour. Kind of a pain in the ass but this car was going through radiators for a while so my friend who I bought it from and I have a radiator R&R on a W124 down to pit speed. The car had a broken up fan so it would spin off kilter and hit the radiator and puncture it. It happened twice. So its got the fan off my E320 parts car which has less cracking but some. I bought a brand new OE Fan so that needs to go on this weekend too.

I haven't done any troubleshooting when it comes to the ALDA. All I have is a boost gauge hanging around I don't have any vacuum tools. What tools do I need? Hopefully harbor freight or someone has some cheap tools to get my going, I can't afford to buy the best of the best right now.

Thanks again!

A Mity-Vac will prove to be very useful when troubleshooting the vacuum and pressure systems on this car. You can pick one up from HF for about $40... worth every penny.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?f=bylogo&logourl=mityvac.gif&brand=Mityvac

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1991 VW Jetta GL ECOdiesel -- 429,531 miles -- RIP
2000 Volkswagen New Beetle TDI -- RIP
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The actual mityvac is actual from Harbor Freight, it's like the culmination of my dreams!

I am halfway through the fan change right now, I needed to go to HF anyways to buy my dad one of their awesome $2.99 battery tenders anyways.

Hows the ecodiesel treating you TDI? I just picked up a clean 1990 gas GL and a rust but well running 1990 GL diesel, going to swap them and put the gas trans on the diesel motor.

Oh my. Just get the tools shown above (or fabricate them). I can swap fans on the 603 in literally 5 minutes. There's a Harbor Freight equivalent to the pulley holder for cheap. I'd rather spend that hour doing something else besides spilling coolant and ATF!



Boost gauge is fine - now get a "T" fitting so you can plumb it in at the ALDA, and enough hose so the gauge will go through the driver window while you drive.



You really need the dual-action MityVac that builds pressure also, not just the vacuum type. The ALDA needs to be tested with pressure, not vacuum. It looks like the old MityVac 4050 kit has been replaced with the MV8500, which does both...
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mitmv8500.html

Yeah, this is what I just bought. Sounds like I should return it.

If it's like mine, you pull the cap on the top fitting, that's pressure.

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- Jeff

MV8000 is vacuum only, back to harbor freight I go tomorrow... I am going to see if they don't have some dirt cheap pressure device before I return it, isn't the ALDA the only think I need pressure to check it? I tried to buy the "good" vacuum pump but if I only need the pressure thing a couple times I'll cheap out.

You can check the ALDA with a little vacuum, if it leaks, it leaks.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff