That won't improve throttle response, even if it was gunked up. You'll need to increase fuel delivery off idle to get the throttle response perked up.



It's tough to achieve a target MPG, especially since fuel quality can drastically affect MPG. If you're unlucky enough to live in a region which gets "enviromentall friendly" fuel, you're screwed. When I lived in CA, that was the only fuel available. When I moved to ID in 2002, the MPG on all my diesels popped up a solid 10-15% (from roughly 26-28 to 30-32), until about 2005-2006 when it started to drift back down. I thought I had engine problems and changed nearly everything in search of my lost MPG. Then last fall I went on a trip to Utah and got 31mpg on four consecutive tanks. When I got back to Idaho, it went back to 27. Bottom line: If you get the same crappy fuel I do, you may never get 30mpg, and there's nothing you can do to the engine to change that.



Yup, that is surprisingly clean!



Beats me, but it's pretty low. I never put a torque wrench on those - I use a plain L-shaped Allen wrench and just crank them medium tight by hand. I think it's an M6 bolt so the spec is probably around 10Nm. Oddly, there is no spec in the FSM for these bolts.

I was kidding about the MPG I was just looking for something to clean out on my car so I could feel like I accomplished something which I never found that day.

Okay then I'll switch back to the allen wrenches. The one bolt looked like it had been overtightened in the past. Thanks for the info!

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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

OM603 Motor mounts!

What do I need to know? I got the car jacked up tonight and got both belly pans off and had a bit of an inspection.

Can this be done with the car don jackstands and an engine hoist supporting the motor?

What are the torque specs for the bolts?

Can the passenger side be done without moving the turbo or exhaust etc?

Do I need to threadlock the bolts?

__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/103/22-21100.pdf
(the OM602/603 manual is missing this procedure, but it is basically identical to the M103 procedure above - see attached PDF from the WIS which is less helpful).


Yes, or use a separate jack to lift the engine at the oil pan. Only lift it high enough to wiggle the new (taller) mount into place.



See link above.



Yes. However, it is difficult to access that top bolt, and if it's really tight, you may need to use a special tool like this to remove it.



No.

Attached Files

engine_mount_R&R.pdf (29.8 KB, 333 views)

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

The 103 document says 40nm for the bottom bolt and 55 for the top. The OM601 says 25nm for the top. Either one more accurate than the other?

Honestly I think I am going to have a hell of a time getting a torque wrench on the upper bolt.

As always GSXR thanks! I have been saving all the pictures and PDFs to a special "diesel" folder on my laptop.

__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

Do you think I should hold off on these mounts until I do the injectors? Is the engine misfiring going to cut the lives of these mounts down over the probably 1-2k miles I will put on the car before I get to the injectors? I don't want to have to put another $150 of mounts in the car at the end of summer.

__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

Brand new lemforder mounts have added a wild new amount of play to the motor. What's the deal here??? The bolts are all torque to spec, everything is hooked back up but the motor shakes violently when it runs and I can move the Motor much more by hand with the car off now.


Help please!

__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

A new problem arose, now when you turn the key off the car runs very slowly on it's own. The mechanical stop lever shuts the car off. If the car is running and you unplug the stop solenoid on the back of the injection pump it idles really slowly like it does when it is hooked up and the key is off. Wheny ou plug it back in the idle comes back up.

I feel a marginal amount of shaft play in the 30k mile turbo but it isn't full of oil.

I have a feeling I bumped something while doing motor mounts, what could it be? I cannot see anything unplugged or unhooked.

__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

It sounds like you knocked off a vacuum line. Check all the connections. It's pretty easy to pull one off when you are working under there. I've done it a least twice.

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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI


Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous

“Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss

Yup vacuum leak. I get whiney too fast. Thank you for the help tdtdriver.

Engine still vibrates like hell, she needs injectors. I am taking the car down to cincy tomorrow and it'll live down there for a week or two because I am driving my F250 back up. Hopefully a couple hundred miles of the vibrations won't wear out my new mounts. When you come above 1,400-1,500 rpms the engine smooths right out. It has this tick to it which I think is new, but I am not sure.

Hopefully tomorrow I am getting a pop tester from a friend.

__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

Some pics

Is a cover supposed to go in this inspection hole on the trans?


The turbo doesn't look like it is blowing a lot of oil


The mounts, the look like they were bad


Do I need subframe bushes?

__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

Yes, but it's not critical to have it on there. Pretty common for them to break and not get replaced. A new one is cheap.


Hard to tell with them out of the car; the test is done with them still installed (pretty sure I linked to the measurement procedure earlier in this thread?)


Oh my. Yes. Don't forget to check all four. Pics of the R&R procedure are on my website.


Something ain't right. I'm not sure if it's injectors or the IP. Normally I would pull the injectors and pop test them, if they are OK, then it's almost guaranteed to be the pump (BT, DT). To isolate a bad cylinder you can loosen each injection line slightly - when you do this, the idle should get noticeably worse. If that doesn't happen with a particular injector, that cylinder is highly suspect. Any chance you could post a video of the shake, rattle & roll?

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

They failed that 13mm test you linked me to. Your link also included a side by side photo and it looked like that.

The new mounts are softer than the old ones it seems.

I bought a compression tester, before I pump money into this car I need to know if any of my cylinders are toast. But it doesn't burn any oil and it makes power so I'd find it hard to believe I only have 5 good cylinders.

I left the car in cincinnati for the week, had to drive my truck up here, but next weekend I will try the loosening injector lines trick.

Just loosen the fitting on the back of the injector? or on the IP. The same guy who is responsible for the belts rebuilt the injection pump 40-50k ago, which seems to be leaking slightly already.

__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

Excellent - then yes, the old ones were shot.


Correct. They are fluid-filled mounts. When they fail, they get "hard" and do not isolate vibration, and shake the car enough so you feel it in the driver's seat, even with a smooth running engine. With a smooth engine and new mounts there is almost zero vibration detectable from the driver's seat.


Very unlikely, but it would be nice to confirm. Try to do the compression test with the engine as warm as possible... I even plug in the block heater while taking out the injectors or glow plugs, to help keep it warm until you're ready to start cranking with the gauge attached. If you pull injectors, extract the injector heat shields or they can go flying when you start the test. (Don't ask how I know!)


You can loosen either end... I usually loosen at the IP side, as it's a bit easier to clean that up afterwards (fuel will leak out when you loosen the fitting approx 1/8 turn). This is a really easy test. My project '87 had an IP failure, and the replacement IP was not delivering fuel to one of the cylinders and it ran really rough. Compression was good and all injectors pop tested ok, and installing a good IP cured it. Runs great now.

I really hope it is isn't the IP. I was offered a complete 1987 300D 3.0 for $650, maybe I will buy it. Could me good to have a core IP on the shelf I can rebuild if I need to.

I am trading a friend labor, I am helping with a headgasket on a 300D 2.5 he just bought and he is going bring his pop tester to my shop and help me check the health of my '603.

__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i