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  #1  
Old 01-10-2011, 12:48 PM
10mm MW
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
*****y *****y

I'm sure everyone who has contributed to this thread has done so with the best intentions - there is no reason to be rude.


Apparently it depends on the material - cast iron or steel:-

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camshaft

Also - I guess - dropping cast iron is more likely to result in a break because of the HCP structure
With the stock cast cams breaking I would like to have a nice steel one. Having some steel blanks made would not be too much trouble. Cut & grind them, and then have them heat treated.

I am not sure how close the stock lobes are, but at some point in the quest for more lift the lobe not fit through the pedestals, after that, reducing the base circle is all that is left. Not sure if shorter followers are possible, if so then they may also be a way to amplify the cam profile.
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  #2  
Old 01-10-2011, 12:54 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 474
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Originally Posted by OM616 View Post
With the stock cast cams breaking
Can you please link to one or more examples from post 1980 models?
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  #3  
Old 01-11-2011, 01:42 AM
layback40's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Victoria Australia - down under!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM616 View Post
With the stock cast cams breaking I would like to have a nice steel one. Having some steel blanks made would not be too much trouble. Cut & grind them, and then have them heat treated.

I am not sure how close the stock lobes are, but at some point in the quest for more lift the lobe not fit through the pedestals, after that, reducing the base circle is all that is left. Not sure if shorter followers are possible, if so then they may also be a way to amplify the cam profile.

Hey Army,
If I can get 800k miles out of one with no problems & 500k miles on another & both still ok, I think you dont have much to worry about.
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I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #4  
Old 01-13-2011, 04:58 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
Hey Army,
If I can get 800k miles out of one with no problems & 500k miles on another & both still ok, I think you dont have much to worry about.
Hey layback40 - I'm not worried I'm just playing with bits until this dreadful weather clears up and I can be inspired to get out and finish the job!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #5  
Old 01-13-2011, 12:56 AM
4x4_Welder's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Poulsbo, WA
Posts: 504
I missed this thread, I've been talking with the guys at Delta Camshaft about a performance grind for the 617 and they need two things: A stock cam, and the clearance between the valves and piston. These guys do great work, I've used both a torque grind in a Subaru EA81, and what I could best describe as a mid-range grind in the 300-6 in my van, both with spectacular results. They can also play with the timing as well to move the powerband.
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