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  #31  
Old 08-22-2017, 12:46 AM
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air and electric die grinders plus long shank carbide bur bits. i would recommend building or renting time on a flow bench if you are going to port your head as its easy yo go too far. it also might not be a bad idea to invest in a ultrasonic thickness gauge so you don't punch through the port walls. there are more than a few on ebay for cheap.

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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way.
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  #32  
Old 10-27-2017, 08:59 AM
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Its been a while since i posted, but life has been busy lately so i haven't had much time to get a lot done on my car. got the 8mm Dieselmeken M pump in along with a carter P4601HP fuel pump and a much larger fuel filter to feed the beast. the M pump is set to 175cc and 5200rpm full load with full fuel cut probably somewhere around 6500-7500 rpm. im using the external alda to limit the output to somewhere around 120cc as thats as much as i can burn right now with the he221w set to 30psi. working on building the new exhaust manifold and plumbing to get a second turbo in as a set of compounds. it will be a while till thats done though as the manifold is going to be slow to make. im using some inconel 625 sheet i got to roll tubes, seam weld them and then pie cut and weld to get curves. once thats done i gotta finally decide what the LP turbo is going to be as there are at least 3 im considering right now. theres a lot more ideas i have been toying with in my head to test on this car but im limited in time and money right now so well see if i ever get around to them. all that being said the car is a blast to drive now it will slam you into the seat from a stop and i have broken the rear lose at 50 mph hitting the kick-down switch.
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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way.
KD9AFT
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  #33  
Old 10-27-2017, 12:25 PM
Simpler=Better's Avatar
Ham Shanker
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 2,544
That's awesome!

U'm a bid advocator for building up tractor engines instead of taking the easy way out with a 606.
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
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  #34  
Old 11-16-2017, 11:19 PM
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progress report from having spent some time driving with the new pump. it can get a bit toasty and smokey if i stay in the throttle all the way that being said its not like it turns the sky black behind me its mostly a medium gray haze and EGT will hit 1400 or so in about 10 seconds of wide open. or course im doing over 80-90 at that point so i usually let out before then. to help control the new pump one of the first things i did was make a new throttle linkage cam plate. the track that the plastic roller rides in defines the throttle input to pump lever actuation ratio so i made one that is a non linear reduction for the first third of travel to make it more street friendly. as for the rest one of the things dieselmeken did to get the governor to not pull any fuel till 5200rpm was extend the throttle lever travel arc a good deal. from the idle stop to the max load stop on the pump is about 4.5-5" on the actuation rod so i have plenty of resolution to control temps and smoke with my foot. the intercooler i have is good at a PR of 3:1 my iat is usually around 120-140*F while turbo discharge temp is over 300*F the only issue is that the bosch cobra pump im running is not enough flow or i need to re-plumb the system for less restriction as it starts to heat soak before long. long term im sizing the compound turbo set to flow around 50-60 LBS/M at a PR of 4-6 depending on how the next few stages of head porting go along with the new cam, valves ,and springs. as for AFR im perfectly ok for running peak power at 15:1 or so the goal is to be able to sustain an output of 250HP or more semi indefinitely. peak power is another thing all together and with few exceptions doesn't need to be sustainable for a long time. but as with any long project goals change as the scope evolves. so im still not sure what it will end up being. i recently picked up another project too so my time is somewhat split between it and my 300d daily.
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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way.
KD9AFT
A&P
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  #35  
Old 02-19-2018, 10:48 PM
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i just finished moving the battery to the trunk today. it noticeably helps the balance in corners and seems to slightly help with squat on acceleration. i mounted a terminal block where the original location for the battery was and ran 15' of 3/0 cable to the trunk secured every 18" with adel clamps. i used the original battery tray by cutting the support leg off it and tack welding it in the side compartment of the trunk so i had a way to secure the battery down. while i had the car on the lift to route the cable i checked everything and found something exciting. both my flex discs are torn and about to fail. the front one has a 45* twist in it with half of the disc torn and missing it is also missing 3 of the washers around the steel sleeves. while the rear one all the washers are cupped around the tripod legs on the driveshaft with a lot of fibers hanging out. i really need to fix this quickly as i suspect one more good WOT hit and the front driveshaft is going to do this.




im looking at having a set made out of aluminum with poly inserts. if it works i may be able to make more for anyone interested.
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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way.
KD9AFT
A&P
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  #36  
Old 02-20-2018, 01:57 PM
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Ham Shanker
 
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The 190rev alloy/poly assemblies look great, but have you considered moving to standard U joints? Spicer makes yokes you can swap on the engine & differential.
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  #37  
Old 02-21-2018, 03:32 PM
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I'm not sure what size yoke / flange that is, but have you considered upgrading that to a 110mm? The only downside is you would have to upgrade the driveshaft side too which would probably end up not worth the effort vs getting a solid setup. I recall whipplem saying he was using the stock 100mm flange from a c class with 400 lb ft of torque and could snap a flex disc in one drag strip night.

Side note, if you have the 110mm already and have any luck with the alloy / poly disc, I may be interested.
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  #38  
Old 02-21-2018, 07:29 PM
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I'll be going to a GS53DZ 6 speed long term along with an aluminum 5 link out of a 204 or something similar so I'll likely go to a 110 disc when I do. For now I'm stuck with the stock 90mm one. I'm not certain of the torque I'm putting out right now but the fuel and turbo numbers add up to somewhere around 250hp and 3-400 lb/ft so it's not surprising that the stock disc is about to explode. If the set I'm having made work ok I can have them made in any size or pattern.
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  #39  
Old 03-07-2018, 01:46 AM
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tentative update on the flex discs. got them installed along with a new driveshaft and center support as my old driveshaft had a failed u-joint as well. i only had to remove one bolt out of the front flex disc to pull it off the trans flange. it had torn the disc till the steel sleeves were hitting each other. the new ones are working so far. still have some vibration especially over 60 but it quites down around 100. i suspect that might be due to them not being balanced plus the added weight from being a larger diameter and aluminum. when i made them i realized a couple of ways i could improve the design for the next set so i may make a few more generations of prototypes and test them. if this all works as i think it should i should be able to make them in any flange size for anyone interested.



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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way.
KD9AFT
A&P
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  #40  
Old 03-07-2018, 09:01 AM
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Sadly your pics aren't working, you might have more luck with imgur.com, google photos is kinda miserable to deal with.
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  #41  
Old 03-14-2018, 08:56 PM
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after testing them for a while i am comfortable saying i cant break them, at least not yet. Burned a set of free 14's off the rear and did a few hard launches from a dead stop to 120mph and no signs of any stress or failure in them so i am confident they will be good for now. the vibration issue is purely from the balance of the disc and some tolerances in the manufacturing (these are prototypes after all). when i make another set in the future ill have to balance them and see if it solves the issue.
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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way.
KD9AFT
A&P
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  #42  
Old 12-04-2018, 07:32 PM
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nice project
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  #43  
Old 01-10-2019, 03:56 AM
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Any updates?
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  #44  
Old 01-10-2019, 12:39 PM
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not really. i have been having trouble keeping the transmission and driveshaft together. i blew two u-joints so im on my third driveshaft now and the trans slips during shifts quite a lot past half throttle. i have been working on mating a tko500 to it but the work to adapt it is slow and i don't have the budget to get the trans yet. im waiting to start the compound turbo set up till i can solve the drive line issues. i have done a bit more suspension work and relocated the battery. it is quite fun to drive but i have to go easy on it which kills some of the fun that plus winter isn't nice where i am.
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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way.
KD9AFT
A&P
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  #45  
Old 01-24-2019, 02:55 PM
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Bud I love your thread, but please please PLEASE host your images directly on the forum. That annoying Photobucket water mark and your disappearing pictures on post 39 are so frustrating. There's absolutely no reason to use 3rd party image hosting services in this day and age.

On the drive shaft, there should be balance markings for you from the factory between the center carrier support. Look closely at them you'll see notches and an arrow. So long as the arrow is between them you'll have the shaft rebalanced.

They look like this:

-
<
-

The arrow may point more closely to each notch in actual practice, but so long as it is in between you're fine.

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