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#16
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RP,
Yes, I have changed several MB timing chains without the fancy crimper and it has worked great. I simply grind off the ends of the pins on a link and punch out the link to remove the chain. Upon putting the new chain in place, get the joining links at the very top and then put your new master link in from the back. Now rub both sides of the pin plate and feel which side is smooth with no burred edges. Put that smooth side toward the front of the car and push the plate into place while holding the back of the master link with a body dolly or heavy hammer. With the master link held FIRMLY in place with your body dolly in your left hand (assuming you are right handed) start peening the end of one of the pins with a ball peen hammer. Peen evenly both pins down real good. Good luck, |
#17
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Fabricated home-made timing chain crimper
I took a piece of an allen wrench and cut a groove in it with a dremel and cut-off disc. Then I brazed it onto a 2" C-Clamp and used this to crimp the pins.
Wow. what a waste of time.
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89 300te 222,222 92 300e 190,000 Last edited by r_p_ryan; 04-30-2005 at 10:50 PM. |
#18
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Wow. What a waste of time
Peening the pins over as Larry describes is the way to go. I spent several hours cobbling together a press and then compared the results with just peening the pin per Larry's instructions. Not only did the peening appear to do a better job but it only took about four minutes, compared to about four hours screwing around.
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89 300te 222,222 92 300e 190,000 |
#19
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Special tools appear on e**y periodically. If careful, you should be able to buy the tool, use it and resell it for zero out-of-pocket. Maybe the shipping cost cannot be recovered. I recently bought a chain crimping tool for $100 that I hope to recover after use.
Oily 1987 300d Turbo 145K 1981 240d 135K 1973 220 cream puff |
#20
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Has anyone tried and aircraft rivet gun to peen over the timing chain rivets. I will be doing this job shortly and I was considering a rivet gun.
John Roncallo |
#21
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Pictures of peening and crimping
The picture with the blue circle shows (from left to right):
A factory crimp (swage) Swage with home made tool virgin pin The other pictures shows the pins after I peened them.
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89 300te 222,222 92 300e 190,000 |
#22
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Tie rod puller tool and rear mount bushing remover.
Hi,
Many of the specialized tools that are used on cars are not always necessary. Exemple: Fork for tie rod joint remover. Unscrew the nut holding the tapered connection on the ball joint almost all the way out and hit the female socket portion with a sharp hammer stroke or two. This will almost always make the tapered connection of the ball joint pop out of its socket; this will also protect the rubber boot in case you have to temporarly reuse the tie rod. Removing the bushing from the rear subframe can also be done without special tools: As with most suggested methods of removal, you will need to remove the bolt holding the bushing to the car body, thus creating some space on top of the bushing. Loosening the bushing on the opposite side of the car will create more space and also loosening the rear bushing bolt on the side you are working on wil create even more space on top of the bushing you want to remove, enough in fact to use a mechanical saw to cut of the portion of the bushing that protrudes over the top of the bushing cup on the subframe leaving at least 1/2 inch for the next step. The next step seems drastic but it really works: Using a large (1/4" or more drill bit in a 3/8" electric drill, drill a hole in the remaining portion of the rubber bushing (right through the steel sleeve) left in the bushing cup and pry out with the drill bit still in the bushing or use a large screwdriver. Once most of the rubber bushing is gone, it is easy to remove the rest of the material (rubber and steel sleeve) and clean the inside of the cup. The first bushing removal took me approx. 30 minutes, while the second used up only half that time. Putting the new bushing back in needs only some silicone grease and the weight of the car as it is lowered slowly so that the bushing slides smoothly in its cup. Sounds messy, and it is a little bit, does no damage the the subframe cup but does destroy the old bushing. Who cares, since the next step is to install a new bushing. There probably are many more tricks like those that eliminate the need for special tools. jacquesrober
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J.R. |
#23
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Excellent tip on the rear subframe bushing. What would indicate that it needs to be replaced?
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89 300te 222,222 92 300e 190,000 |
#24
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Rear subframe bushing W124
The quality of the ride is probably the first indication of rear sub frame bushings that needs to be replaced although the different suspension links can also be culprits. With suspension links it is easy to manually test for loose bushing. When there are no loose bushings with the suspension links and the ride is still mushy (like the rear end is moving sideways) then it is likely that the rear sub frame bushings needs replacing. The appearance of the bushing will also confirm the need for replacement. There are two front and two rear bushings on this sub frame. In most cases the front bushings only will need to be replaced. After replacement of these bushing and assuming that the various suspension links ( 3 per side) are solid, the ride should be similar to a train on a railroad track, i.e. same as when the car was new. The front end suspension might also need repairs: loose tie rods, upper and lower arms bushings, ball joints and surprisingly enough: the steering damper (will affect stability). After redoing the front and rear control joints, the car should be ok for another 100,00 miles.
Hope this is helpfull. Regards, jacquesrober.
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J.R. |
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