RP,

Yes, I have changed several MB timing chains without the fancy crimper and it has worked great.

I simply grind off the ends of the pins on a link and punch out the link to remove the chain. Upon putting the new chain in place, get the joining links at the very top and then put your new master link in from the back. Now rub both sides of the pin plate and feel which side is smooth with no burred edges. Put that smooth side toward the front of the car and push the plate into place while holding the back of the master link with a body dolly or heavy hammer.

With the master link held FIRMLY in place with your body dolly in your left hand (assuming you are right handed) start peening the end of one of the pins with a ball peen hammer. Peen evenly both pins down real good.

Good luck,

I took a piece of an allen wrench and cut a groove in it with a dremel and cut-off disc. Then I brazed it onto a 2" C-Clamp and used this to crimp the pins.
Wow. what a waste of time.

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89 300te 222,222
92 300e 190,000

Hi,
Many of the specialized tools that are used on cars are not always necessary.
Exemple: Fork for tie rod joint remover. Unscrew the nut holding the tapered connection on the ball joint almost all the way out and hit the female socket portion with a sharp hammer stroke or two. This will almost always make the tapered connection of the ball joint pop out of its socket; this will also protect the rubber boot in case you have to temporarly reuse the tie rod.

Removing the bushing from the rear subframe can also be done without special tools: As with most suggested methods of removal, you will need to remove the bolt holding the bushing to the car body, thus creating some space on top of the bushing. Loosening the bushing on the opposite side of the car will create more space and also loosening the rear bushing bolt on the side you are working on wil create even more space on top of the bushing you want to remove, enough in fact to use a mechanical saw to cut of the portion of the bushing that protrudes over the top of the bushing cup on the subframe leaving at least 1/2 inch for the next step. The next step seems drastic but it really works: Using a large (1/4" or more drill bit in a 3/8" electric drill, drill a hole in the remaining portion of the rubber bushing (right through the steel sleeve) left in the bushing cup and pry out with the drill bit still in the bushing or use a large screwdriver. Once most of the rubber bushing is gone, it is easy to remove the rest of the material (rubber and steel sleeve) and clean the inside of the cup. The first bushing removal took me approx. 30 minutes, while the second used up only half that time. Putting the new bushing back in needs only some silicone grease and the weight of the car as it is lowered slowly so that the bushing slides smoothly in its cup.
Sounds messy, and it is a little bit, does no damage the the subframe cup but does destroy the old bushing. Who cares, since the next step is to install a new bushing.
There probably are many more tricks like those that eliminate the need for special tools.
jacquesrober

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J.R.

Excellent tip on the rear subframe bushing. What would indicate that it needs to be replaced?

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89 300te 222,222
92 300e 190,000