M119 Megasquirt- also hello - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

HermannBöring DEI · #1 10-20-2013, 02:27 AM

Hello Everyone
First time on peachparts, coming over from benzworld (old guys)

So over my summer break from college i decided to plunge into the dark pit that is mercedes tuning. What i have is a megasquirt 1 extra installed only as a data logger for the time being.

Here is what is currently connected

Megasquirt ECU+Relay board and wiring harness
LC-1 Wideband
Coolant Temperature Sensor (installed in upper radiator hose)
(-)Coil tachometer signal wire
Air Temperature Sensor
Manifold Air Pressure line T in at Ignition module port
Grounds

I am only planning on installing the Fuel system in the near future
Possible forced induction via turbo depending on if the Ignition module can compensate for boost/knock.

To be connected

Mustang Injectors (i think 19lb/hr)
Late model M119 Injector Rail+fittings
Fuel pressure regulator
Wiring for injectors

My props go to tjts from 190e revolution as I am basing my build on his idea of keeping the CIS computer in charge of the Idle air control and everything else

whipplem104 · #2 10-20-2013, 10:00 AM

I would suggest running the timing also if you are going to boost the engine. The ezl does have knock control but it will not really deal with timing as a whole. You should at least have a device for retarding the timing under boost via scaling the signal. Like something from MSD.

duxthe1 · #3 10-20-2013, 11:21 AM

2nd that, using the megasquirt for ignition control is the way to go. While not the easiest, the best route would be swapping in a 60-2 flywheel from a later model 119 and use a stock type crank sensor in the stock location. I went this route on my 19 PSI 103 and it has been flawless.

On the MS install a 2nd BIP and set up the code to run the stock coils. Though to be honest I'm not sure all that would be in the MS1E's feature set (I'm a MS2E guy). If not an upgrade to an MS2E daughterboard would be more than worth it for complete control of the ignition.

With ign control and that early closed deck block you could boost the pi$$ out of that thing and make some seriously stupid amount of power. You can quote me on this...."There is no such thing as too much boost, only not enough octane, connecting rod, or head bolt"

HermannBöring DEI · #4 10-22-2013, 02:47 AM

Thank you all for the feedback,
I have had my eye on the ms3 and microsquirt and I am tired of cleaning distributors.

Curious about the resistor that is on the EZL, i took mine off and got full advance which is cool. But, if i got one of the high ohm resistors for it i wonder if it would retard timing enough for boost. I like easy shortcuts haha

duxthe1 · #5 10-22-2013, 08:23 PM

I went that route before my MS install, with less than stellar results. I ended up having to use an MSD BTM (Boost Timing Master) with the EZL in its most retarded setting and this was when I ran 9 PSI. It worked but I didn't really like it, not to mention you'd need 2 BTMs with the 119's dual coil setup. Comparatively I'd rate the EZL+BTM a 2, and the MS ignition control a 99.

With an MS3 you could do a coil on plug setup using factory late 119 valve covers and coils, but honestly I've never considered that setup terribly robust. It would be pretty novel to have the sequential ignition but if it were mine I'd just have the MS control the stock 2Xcoil 2Xcap ignition setup. If you did go COP, it would be nice to swap the late exhaust cams and upper timing covers while you're at it, just to get rid of the cam seal in the covers not to mention gain a little extra room in what is likely to be a cramped engine bay once boost is made and routed.

HermannBöring DEI · #6 10-23-2013, 02:49 AM

Huh, well that answered my question and would rather have everything at the keyboard than the wrench. Only interested in a low psi setup (5-8psi). Iv been trying to make a VE table that makes sense off the kjet so i can have a running car when i put in the injectors and fuel rail but i feel like im just going in circles so i might just dive into it. Currently dealing with my belt tensioner which had the main bolt break off into the block, guess murphy is in the dirvers seat

Funny cause the belt didn't break just that big bolt which i think is a grade 10 (wtf)

so if i cant get that guy out ill fabricate my own tensioner and then get on with the megasquirt

tjts1 · #7 10-23-2013, 09:48 PM

Awesome project, let me know if you have any question I can help with.
cheers

HermannBöring DEI · #8 11-02-2013, 01:27 AM

unfortunately my megasquirts going to have to be put on hold for the time being
due to my belt tensioner situation. Really dumbfounded at my bad luck, apparently my serpentine belt broke but not all the way and wrapped around the belt tensioner and snapped the big mounting bolt off in the timing cover.... Iv tried to drill the thing out but its a grade 10.9 (i think thats an 8 in ANSI) so i may be looking at having to pull the timing cover. SO the situation is pretty ****ty

tjts=jesus

seriously tho nice build with the 190

did you use autotune to get the fuel tables dialed in or just seat of the pants and wideband

duxthe1 · #9 11-02-2013, 06:07 PM

With the bolt broken off and the threads not under tension, I'd expect it would back out without much effort. My go-to fix would be to weld a nut on what's left and screw it out.

HermannBöring DEI · #10 11-03-2013, 11:48 PM

the bolt broke recessed in the hole and its speced to be torqued in there at 75 ft/lbs
i think who ever did the tensioner last just over torqued the guy because its coming out in pieces, real PITA

took it to my mechanic and he welded a nut to it and it just snapped more of the bolt off
currently blow torching and using a left hand drill to get the sucker out

tjts1 · #11 11-04-2013, 02:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HermannBöring DEI

unfortunately my megasquirts going to have to be put on hold for the time being
due to my belt tensioner situation. Really dumbfounded at my bad luck, apparently my serpentine belt broke but not all the way and wrapped around the belt tensioner and snapped the big mounting bolt off in the timing cover.... Iv tried to drill the thing out but its a grade 10.9 (i think thats an 8 in ANSI) so i may be looking at having to pull the timing cover. SO the situation is pretty ****ty

tjts=jesus

seriously tho nice build with the 190

did you use autotune to get the fuel tables dialed in or just seat of the pants and wideband

I'm sorry to hear about the bad luck with the belt.
Yes, I used autotune extensively. The more miles you put on it with autotune running the more accurate the table becomes. It sort of builds on itself with time. You can have a good working table for 90% of driving situations within 20-30 miles. Everything after that is refinement.
cheers

HermannBöring DEI · #12 11-04-2013, 08:43 PM

Got the bolt out
drilled it all the way through and used an easy out which sucked because i make the hole too big and had to rethread it

new belt tensioner kit and eryythings going again

so back to the megasquirt
been reading about autotune, really neat algorithm
next on the list is to put in the injectors and find a fuel pressure regulator or reuse the CIS one

duxthe1 · #13 11-04-2013, 09:53 PM

The CIS uses too high of a pressure for regular EFI injectors. I'd look into using the later 119 EFI parts. The later style fuel rail has the mounting for the FPR built in and with the appropriate hoses will plug and play with the metal feed and return lines already in the car.

Here's a few pics of a 119 rail I have lying around.

HermannBöring DEI · #14 11-05-2013, 05:04 PM

actually thats the exact fuel rail i have
got it from pick your part i think a 500sel or something
i also have mustang 19lb injectors
total cost was $70

duxthe1 · #15 11-05-2013, 10:15 PM

You're good to go! Just use the factory 4 bar regulator, its simple, easy, and it works. Check that fuel doesn't leak from the nipple after sitting with pressure on it. Worst case scenario a new Bosch regulator isn't too expensive, and will be easy to source if a replacement is needed in the future. When you start to tune it remember that it is a 4 bar regulator and the mustang injectors are rated at 3.5 bar so they will be flowing a bit over the "rated" 19 lb/hr. You could use 19 and tune it fine but the closer your ReqFuel value is to correct the better other calculations fall in line behind it.