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#1
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my 1985 500sel is havind some wood trim problems around the sterring colum it is poping of the meatl under it.any tips on fixing it
and around my gear shifter it is chipping and cracking and i was wondering how hard it is to replace and how much it would cost to replace it. ------------------ -------------------- 1985 500sel 220k 1981 300sd 278l sold 1989 chrsler leabaron 1990 380sl (hopefully) |
#2
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Mine is doing the same thing: the wood trim is loose from the ignition key all the way to the right side where the glove box is. I've been successful repairing this splitting by using a 3M trim adhesive, and clamping and/or taping the wood securely to the aluminum.
I like 3M blue masking tape because it comes off easily and doesn't leave any adhesive behind. It's about $6 a roll at Home Depot's paint dept. I'm tempted to try my hot glue gun for the next repair because the glue seems a bit more "rubbery" and flexible. I do think that the duration and amount of clamping / taping is just as important as the right type of adhesive. My latest repair was my ashtray wood. (It had just popped off in my hand one day.) I used about two dozen small and medium binder clips overnight to hold it. ------------------ Robert W. Roe 1984 300SD 170K mi |
#3
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I used rubber cement/contact cement on some of the loose trim on a 500sel. I think its still holding today, unless FrankieZ sez otherwise. (this was last October)
-Larry ------------------ 03/83 300D 184k 07/73 280 160k |
#4
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YEs i have used atumotive glue and it stays well but i dont have pacientce to sit there and hold it to it doesnt pop up
------------------ -------------------- 1985 500sel 220k 1981 300sd 278k sold 1989 chrysler leabaron 130k 1990 380sl (hopefully) |
#5
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do i need to take all the wood of and then glue it back on
------------------ -------------------- 1985 500sel 220k 1981 300sd 278k sold 1989 chrysler leabaron 130k 1990 380sl (hopefully) |
#6
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Well Larry. The trim is popping off my 500sel. The trim is popping from the steering column all the way to the glove box. Is that the trim that you glued?
------------------ FrankieZ 84 500SEL EURO 87K 85 300D 267K (and still goin' strong) |
#7
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those are the same areas as mine
------------------ -------------------- 1985 500sel 220k 1981 300sd 278k sold 1989 chrysler leabaron 130k 1990 380sl (hopefully) |
#8
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That wood is very expensive if you wind up replacing it. The worse problem is that you would have to buy all the pieces to get a color match.
As a result I would pay someone with experience to do it right. The tech in my shop that has done this probably a hundred times will do a better job in an hour than anyone can do in any amount of time the first ten times they do it. I wouldn't presume to do it my self even though I know exactly what he does, sorta. He uses two part epoxy, he prepares the surfaces somehow and gets the glue behind the wood (somehow) and he uses a multitude of brake pedal depressors and cloth covered wooden blocks to hold the contact for an hour or more. As pointed out above the trick is to get enough glue in without seeping out after compressed and to keep firm pressure till set. |
#9
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Frankie,
That would be the piece to the left of the column, right at the end, by where the vent is. -Larry |
#10
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Installed my 3-piece Zebrano wood kit (1986 2.3-16V) using Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue). Make SURE you get the "GEL" type of glue as it tends not to run as much as the liquid type. I just applied a couple blobs around the perimeter (not too close to the edges) and held in place with firm hand/finger pressure (2 - 3 minutes). They're still attached and lookin' fine .
Hope this helps. Brian |
#11
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by far the best "glue" for wood or carbon fiber panels is available at Home Depot:
"GOOP" They also make "Outdoor GOOP" which is excellent for door guards, wheel center caps, etc. Try it! |
#12
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Any tips on ways to get the glue in to a small space
------------------ -------------------- 1985 euro 500sel 220k 1981 300sd 278k sold 1989 chrysler leabaron 130k 1990 320sl (hopefully) |
#13
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You can use a disposable syringe to reach those "hard-to-reach" areas. Go to www.mcmaster.com and look under "syringes". They've got a TON of stuff that will work for your particular application -- everything from 5 gauge (.189" ID/ .219" OD) to 30 gauge (.006" ID / .012" OD) disposable SS needles.
Hope this helps. Brian |
#14
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Thanks any tips on keeping it on the meatal while it drys
------------------ -------------------- 1985 euro 500sel 220k 1981 300sd 278k sold 1989 chrysler leabaron 130k 1990 320sl (hopefully) |
#15
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do you think a 2 x4 on the seat to where it s poping of will hold it till it drys
------------------ -------------------- 1985 euro 500sel 220k 1981 300sd 278k sold 1989 chrysler leabaron 130k 1990 320sl (hopefully) |
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