Steve,

Did you get the wrench to turn that large nut from them too? If not what are you using?

Yes, I did order the 36mm wrench too plus a 32mm for the bimmer while I was shopping. It will be a blind guess when I have to re-torque the fan clutch. There is a torque measuring gauge at work, I think I am going to calibrate my arm to torque the fan clutch, haha.

Finally got the tools I need from ZDMak, they have quite a big selections and the price is very reasonable. The water pump replacement project was easier than I expected. The brown stuff I posted in a picture previously are rust that came from the water pump pulley. I guess the coolant leaked from the weep hole and falls right down to the inside surface of the pulley and cause it to rust.
Also I found that the fine particles inside the cooling (making it turbid) are attracted by a magnet. After the water pump was removed, the timing case has some grind marks on it, looks like the turbine thing on the inside of the water pump is grinding the timing cover. The pump axle feels a little wobbly compared to the new pump at hand, not sure why it would grind the timing cover but it did. Anyway, I spent the most time trying to flush out the dirty coolant, the actual water pump replacement probably took me about 2.5 hours. The truck is running fine and smooth now and no leaks. I think I will take it to the dealer and have them flush out the coolant one more time. Anyway, our truck is few months short of 8 years and only have 66k miles. It seems a little early to have a failed/failing water pump. I took some pictures of the damage components, if anyone is interested.

Steve,

If you could post pictures of the following I’d certainly be interested and appreciative:

1-Holding tool
2-36 mm wrench, did it have square drive hole on end so you could use a torque wrench?
3- Pictures of damaged components, showing area where weep hoe is located.

Also which way do you turn the tensioner to get slack in the poly belt so it can be removed and is there a place to put a drift or something in a hole to keep it out of the way?

Ron, I will post some pics tonight. To answer your question, the tools I used are the exact pictures you see in ZDMAK. There is no square hole on the 36mm wrench to accept a torque wrench. The spec to torque is 45 Nm which is not much. I used some loctite blue and hand tightened it and checked again after driving 60 miles, no slack, did not need to retighten.
You need to turn the tensioner counter-clockwise, I plugged a skinny screw driver into the hole that keeps the tensioner in loose/slack position. If you have replaced the tensioner, you can use the pin that came with the tensioner instead of a screw driver.

When my tensioner failed I was stranded so I had the vehicle towed to the dealer who replaced it. My new tensioner does not look exactly like the orginal. The new one has a place in the center where you insert a security T45 (the one with the hole in the middle.

Anyway in the diagram I've posted do you turn 4a or 4b to slacken the tensioner in order to insert the pin?

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you turn 4b, you'll need a 17mm socket same size as the lug bolts. here are some pictures, they may be too small to view. I can send them as a pdf file if you want better quality pictures. I almost installed the whole new cooling system, new water pump, new pulley, new aux pump, new radiator hoses, new thermostat. I even took the expansion tank out and cleaned it with 6N hydrochloric acid to dissolve the metallic deposits. I am a chemist by training so I have easy access to those common lab chemicals.

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My pulley is lose at the water pump, should I replace the water pump?