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  #16  
Old 06-23-2005, 12:46 PM
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Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada
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The only reason I put on cross drilled rotors was because I feel that they look way cooler than stock. It makes my ride just a little different than most ML's. If I wanted to drive a drab boring "practical" SUV I would have bought a cheaper more reliable domestic
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1998 ML 320
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  #17  
Old 07-15-2005, 12:38 AM
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Location: Missouri
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Just for the record, I have over 50K miles on my original pads over 4 years. Getting ready to replace my front ones, but the light hasnít come on yet. The backs still have about 50% left. Rotors are all in good shape according to the specs imprinted on the rotor itself.
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  #18  
Old 07-15-2005, 09:53 PM
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I, too, got great service out of pads and rotors. Granted 80% of my driving is interstate, but here's the history on my 99ML430 w/227.000 miles

49,953 front and rear pads
100,301 front pads
106,402 rear pads
153,184 front pads....fluid flushed/replaced
198,783 front and rear pads/ front rotors
227,012 front and rear pads/ rear rotors

This last service I did myself..paid 59.50/front 42.50/rear Mintex pads and 39.95/each for rear rotors. So far, I've been very happy with the Mintex pads...no squeal whatsoever and great pedal feel. I did use the MB paste on the rear of the pads. This is an extremely easy job if you're the least bit mechanically inclined; although its dirty. Plenty of old towels and some disposable shop gloves come in handy.

Great information on this site regarding DIY brake work..Go for it, save some money and splurge on something for yourself !!
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  #19  
Old 07-16-2005, 09:17 AM
DCF DCF is offline
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On my ml430 I just did my first front pad/rotor change (I think pads were done once beofre I bought it) at 60k. I went with the Brembo rotors from tire rack as well as the Satisfied ceramic pads. The ceramic pads are well worth it. Not only do they stop better, but with the limited dust (that is white anyway) your wheels stay WAY cleaner. The pad and rotor change is very easy to do at home. Here is a tip though: When you push the pistons back in the calipers, crack the bleed screw and let the pressure out that way. Then, when you put the calipers back on, pump out some of the fluid and replace it, bleeding out any air as well. You will not beleive how much firmer your pedal will be.

The rear pads and rotors were fine, no need to do anything. Another benefit of the ceramics is that they are way easier on rotors, as there are no/much fewer metal "threads" in them to chew through the rotors. Also, not 1 squeak.
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  #20  
Old 07-17-2005, 02:56 AM
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Location: NY
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227k miles!

Quote:
Originally Posted by springerfever
I, too, got great service out of pads and rotors. Granted 80% of my driving is interstate, but here's the history on my 99ML430 w/227.000 miles
\
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  #21  
Old 03-07-2006, 09:16 AM
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Replacing the front rotors?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Q
10-15k miles average??!!!! That's crazy.

Ever since the dealer recommended we replace all 4 sets of pads at 24k miles for $600, I have done my own brakes. We have 60k miles on the car and I have put 2 sets of front pads, one set of rear pads, and one set of front rotors on. The rear rotors look to need replacing now. I never measure them, only go by the lip on the outer edge created by the wear. If it's anything more than really minor, I replace.

I did all pads and front rotors for around $320.
Hello,

I am curious to know if the job of replacing the front rotors involves removing wheel bearings or axles, or, do the rotors come off easily when the tire is removed?

Thanks,

Joel
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  #22  
Old 03-07-2006, 06:19 PM
sho1
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Talking

I have a 2000 ML430 with 112,000 miles on it now... The front pads need to be changed every 25,000 miles or so, and the rear every 20,000 miles or so. I drive a mix of city and highway... But I order my stuff through different places, the fronts rotors are about $70 per piece, the rear rotors are about $85 per piece, the front set of pads about $70 for the set, and the rear set of pads about $80.
So, total around $460 for complete change of everything... It's not too bad... rotors changed every 3rd pad change for front, and every 4th pad change for rear... no pulsating brakes and stopping great!!!
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  #23  
Old 03-07-2006, 08:22 PM
Q Q is offline
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Please tell me this "and the rear every 20,000 miles or so" is a typo.
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  #24  
Old 03-07-2006, 08:36 PM
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My last pad/rotor change was over 30k miles ago and still no warning lights.
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  #25  
Old 03-07-2006, 08:47 PM
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One thing that leads to brakes wearing out early is keeping your foot on the brake pedal. In the shop we refer to it as the little old lady syndrome. I.E. little old lady complains that her brakes wear too fast, then as she drives away from the shop the brake lights never go out. If you want your brakes to last longer keep your foot off them until you need them.
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  #26  
Old 03-07-2006, 09:09 PM
sho1
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20,000 miles is not a typo... that's how long the rear pads usually lasts... anywhere between 20k to 30k... and no... it's not the old lady syndrome... the brake pads all around on my Lexus RX300 lasted 85k miles... it's the weight of the ML and also the compound used in the ML Also, depends on how much city driving and how much highway driving... if you drive in traffic a lot... that affects the wear on brake pads... by the way, the rear brake pad don't wear evenly, usually one of the pad wears out a little quicker... that's why sometimes you have to replace them early.
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  #27  
Old 03-08-2006, 06:57 AM
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I just want to confirm that sho1 is right. I got 2002 ML320 c/o pad for front at 20000, at 37200 c/o front and rear pads also discs but all 4 disc ( will cut and reuse if possible) some day. The car is too heavy..that is why it eats the brakes disc and shoes the price is about right if you do for yourself. By the way( this is for sho1) How do you readjust the hand brake after c/o the rear brake. THX
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  #28  
Old 03-08-2006, 08:17 AM
sho1
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http://www.keysolutions.com/M-class.nsf/aac7d56ca8fd884b852563be00610639/6514894e0f416aa0852568fe00034898?OpenDocument&AutoFramed

Try this link, it shows you a picture of the star wheel adjuster on the parking brake. You have to turn the rear drum rotor so that you can get access to the star wheel with a flat head screwdriver. You then turn the star adjusting wheel until your drum/rotor is locked, then go back 2 to 3 clicks to loosen it up just a little bit... then you are done...
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  #29  
Old 03-08-2006, 01:54 PM
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Thanks you, Sho1
do i need to remove the rear brake disc to readjust that ?

Last edited by ntvh; 03-08-2006 at 02:56 PM.
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  #30  
Old 03-08-2006, 09:56 PM
Q Q is offline
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Sorry, I missed the "how do you remove rotors" post. It's super easy. Just take down the wheel and remove the caliper. Then, there's a 5mm allen screw that holds it in place. You WILL need PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench to separate the rotor from the hub. I live in Texas, not the rust belt, and mine were fused. I started whacking the snot out of the first one until I remembered what PB Blaster was for. I shot both and waited for about 5 minutes. They came off with a light rap from a hammer. Shoot it inside the bolt holes to get it between the rotor and the hub. I put antisieze compound on the face of the hub before putting the new rotor back on to prevent future beatings.
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