Howdy Eric,
I would have to look it up or maybe one of the other guys know. For a lot of people 5,000 miles could be a year. The six years mine was running I didn't put that many miles on it. It's in restoration now.

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Frank X. Morris
17 Kia Niro
08 Jeep Wrangler 4 door unlimited

I'm sure once I get one, I will probally drive it no more than 2,000 a year, and 5,000 would probally tops

Depending on who / where you buy a Mog from, many come with new or near new canvas to get you started. If it comes with original canvas as some may, it lasted 30 years Thats not bad!

I would say a once per year valve adjustment would work for you.

Frank, is the 404 engine an aluminum head? Are there issues with unleaded gas and valve seats like an old american car? Just curious.

If the cab is too cold, I think the aux gas heaters are pretty reasonable and you can find them used. I'd bet one of those will roast you out

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1995 G320
1984 280GE
1971 Unimog 416

The tops are very durable, the plastic windows are not as durable as the top. Some folks have made rigid frames and inserted plexiglass windows which is a good solution.

Heat is a bit scarce in a 404. Someone said it best when they mentioned that the theory on keeping warm in a 404 was to wear more clothes. After many years of back road driving and hunting I tend to agree with keeping the cab somewhat cool. Hopping out of the truck into sub-zero temperatures with a slight bit of sweat beneath your clothes is not a good thing.

I did drive my 404 without the top when it was cold enough to snow, hats and gloves were needed! You'll find yourself warming up to the dog house for that extra bit of heat. But it was sure a good laugh driving around!

The heads are steel and low compression so as to allow for poor gas quality. Lonny, Zack and Aaron were talking about higher compression heads and dual carb set ups from sedans as a method to increase horse power. Overall I would have to say that the engines are extreemly durable. The Petronix conversion is a good one as is converting the plug wires and spark plugs to non-military type.

An engine driven air compressor can be added but with limited horsepower I don't see this as being the best solution. An electric compressor might be a better alternative. Keep in mind that these trucks are a 24V system.

If you do check out a 404 be very sure that the tranny is in good condition. I know of someone who foolishly bought one without driving it and later found out that a couple of the gear syncros were shot. This made for very difficult if not dangerous driving.

As with all vehicles that have sat in storage for a long time with little or no use you have to be concerned with bad oil selas. Be sure to check to see if the diffs are over full. Over full diffs mean there is a leaky transmisison seal. Not an expensive fix for a DIY but a PITA. Also be sure that the hub seals are good, again a real PITA to fix and requries proper tools to do the job with the least amount of effort.

Other than that the 404's are a blast to drive and certainly the most affordable and capable off roader you can find. I believe there is a dealer selling them up here for about $7,500.00 CDN.

I forgot to add something! DoKa refers to Dopplecabine, crewcab in english. I don't see any 406/416's with auxillary heaters unless they are DoKa's. The volume inside a DoKa cab is such that the is a need for the extra heat in the back seat, under which is where the aux heater is mounted. They run off diesel straight from the fuel tank(s).

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Greg
'73 416 UNIMOG DoKa
'85 300GD G Wagen

Can someone tell me the difference between Military spec plug wires and distributor? I would think that having one would be better than the civilian setup, but I am sure they cost more and harder to find

The plug wires used in the 404 had some sort of radio supression thing built in, cold war tech stuff. The spark plugs used were also special, similar to those used in air craft. You are better off using standard type plugs, they are far cheaper, last longer and can be bought anywhere.

The wires I believe had special ends in order to attach them to the plugs and to the distributor cap. If you change out the plugs you change out the wires(not 100% mine was already converted when I bought it.) Again newer type wires are better for the same reason the plugs are. If you keep the military cap then you have to do some custom fab work to get the new wires attached. Not a big deal and there is lots of infor on how to do that, there is a web page out there with photos and instructions.

The military type distributor cap is a water tight sealed unit. Basically a bakelight cap with a steel cover, very nice unit and priced accordingly. It is possible to get a cap from a sedan to fit the distributor in which case you can then use normal boots on your wires.

The good thing about it all is that you have a very well sealed ignition system and can get into some deep water without having the engine die. Of course, you still don't want to get water in the air-intake!

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Greg
'73 416 UNIMOG DoKa
'85 300GD G Wagen

The 404 is starting to look better and better everyday. It looks like I can get most of the engine parts at my local MB dealer or other parts stores, I didn't know that. The only thing that I don't like is the lack of power steering, but I can live with it.

I seem to recall there was a power steering kit made by somebody out there, surf the RMM web site its probably there.

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Greg
'73 416 UNIMOG DoKa
'85 300GD G Wagen

Howdy Eric,
You will have better luck getting your parts through a Unimog dealer. I think it was Scott Ingham that had the power steering units. I have had so many parts and prices in my head I can't remember for sure on the price. It could be $1200USD or $1800 or even more. Also I"m getting 2 different answers to the aluminum head question so I"m gettng some more opinions.

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Frank X. Morris
17 Kia Niro
08 Jeep Wrangler 4 door unlimited

Hey guys Been following this, very interesting. As I mentioned to Eric over in the open forum, the wife kinda squashed my hopes of owning one of these very soon (if at all). But I'm gonna keep my chin up and hope! I just have to figure out what toys I can sell to scratch up the dough
Anyway, I was talking to my brother about these the other day, and we were wondering how easy engine swaps are in these. Are the bellhousings fairly universal for Mercedes? I'm thinking if I ever am able to get one, it'd probably be a 404, but I'd like to find a diesel engine, like a turbo 617 engine, and put in.

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past MB rides:
'68 220D
'68 220D(another one)
'67 230
'84 SD
Current rides:
'06 Lexus RX330
'93 Ford F-250
'96 Corvette
'99 Polaris 700 RMK sled
2011 Polaris Assault
'86 Yamaha TT350(good 'ol thumper)

The bell housing is intergral to the transmission. The other thing is that the engine mount is intended to permit frame twist.

Guys do 617 conversion however an adapter must be made or bought. Coach George has a 404 with a 617.

If you do an archive search on mogml you will find all sorts of information, also the RMM site.

ALSO: I may have been wrong about the cylinder head!!! Now that I think of it, the spark plugs did have anti-sieze on them so.... they are likely aluminum!! essh, I must be getting old!

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Greg
'73 416 UNIMOG DoKa
'85 300GD G Wagen

Howdy All,
Here is what I have in detail. The head is an aluminum casting with aluminum cam bearings. Valves, seats & cam are steel. Valve guides are brass/bronze alloy. Nothing much said about unleaded gas except eventually you will have to do something. Also a word about valve adjustment. It should be checked every 4,000- 5,000 miles.

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Frank X. Morris
17 Kia Niro
08 Jeep Wrangler 4 door unlimited

Coach George..... 617..... hmmmmmm lets see..... turn key. push this button for 10 counts...... push start buttom...... loud noise... lots of vibrations.... sweet smell of
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.
.
.
.
.
.
.
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Diesel....... yup...... its a 617

Pull the hand throttle for it to warm up. finally the rpms start to wind up..... and suddenly wirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
r
r
r
r
r
r
r
r

heheh.. love the sound of that turbo wine... 617A

It is NOT an easy conversion....... unless you get the kit from germany. Ive been told (mine came with the conversion) that it is still no cake walk to swap unless you are a competent mechanic in a PRO equipped diesel shop. For the ol' shade tree mechanic.... its possible.... blood sweat and tears in the long run has its advantages.

Expect to pay about 2 and half grand for engine and kit. Just about 2 grand just for kit.

It looks like I might have to wait until next summer before I can buy a Unimog, but in the mean time I will try and get my 1976 Chevy Blazer running again, and drive it in until I can afford a Mog.

Anyways, I still have a few more questions, like if many people spray Line-X in the interior and other places on the body and chasis? How easy is it to add a snorkel kit? I noticed that there was an optional removable hard top, are these rare, and does anyone make these for the aftermarket?

Yeah..... its done. Some Line-X, some Rhino, some this, some that. No more often (or less) than guys who spray their Jeeps etc. I know one 404 doka that has EVERYTHING lined. Interior and exterior.

Matters how handy you are and your resources. Ive heard it's not that hard butttttttt....... you better build it right if you want to truely need it.

Yes from what I have read they are rare.... in fact they are more than rare... they are

RARE .

Aftermarket hardtop..... your shiat out of luck here too.