W210 E300 estate sleeper - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

m1tch · #16 05-16-2015, 04:46 AM

I am planning to do a bit more work on the car over the weekend, will be replacing all of the tyres next weekend to some actual branded tyres as well!

I will be fitting a variable resistor to the MAP sensor today hopefully, this will allow me to change the resistor from 0k Ohm (stock setting), up to 20k Ohm, although I will mainly be trying out the 9-12k Ohm range. I wanted to try a variable resistor as this will allow me to change the settings quickly and will be using the stock setting for normal road use, but then turn it up when I do 1/4 mile runs.

I am also looking at getting some water/meth injection which will allow for some additional fueling at the top end and reduce EGTs - although this is a while off as I still need to get a base run done with all stock settings.

m1tch · #17 05-26-2015, 03:03 AM

I have just got 4 brand new tyres fitted to the car owing to the fact that the tyres that were on the car when I bought it were a mixture of no name tyres, plus a Michelin with very low tread. The issue was further compounded by the fact that the rear tyres were mismatched brands - I am guessing the other Michelin tyre on the rear was worn so they just replaced it with a very cheap tyre.

Anyway, I figured I would replace them all in preparation for the initial drag runs this coming weekend (if the weather is ok!). The tyres feel really good on the car now, with the last set of tyres the car would understeer around some corners owing to the weight of the car, however these new tyres actually grip

Mark at Pelican Parts · #18 05-27-2015, 02:42 PM

Looking forward to hearing how the weekend went!

m1tch · #19 05-28-2015, 03:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark at Pelican Parts

Looking forward to hearing how the weekend went!

I will report back on Sunday, I should get a few runs in as a stock setup, plan of action is to:

1. Run 100% stock for a few runs trying different shift patterns
2. Plug in the variable resistor and do further runs at 11k, 12k and 13k Ohm settings to see what the difference is - something I can easily adjust track side.

When I am next over I will be running with the back seats removed as well as the spare wheel and tool kit (I have a few cans of the puncture repair kit plus AA cover).

I have 4 brand new tyres fitted so it should give me the best chance to get some good initial times. I am guessing I should get around 16 seconds as an initial pass - hopefully the weather holds off and its dry.

I will also be changing out the exhaust backbox for something smaller and lighter, the stock pipe diameter seems to be 2.5" which is pretty good for a stock system and matched quite well for the turbo.

I will also have a look at the stock airbox which seems to actually be really well designed, its quite large and has a cold air intake in the grill - I could look at increasing this slightly though.

m1tch · #20 05-28-2015, 03:01 PM

Just set the variable resistor to around 12.5kohms, it seems fairly laggy to spool up, just thought I would try it out on a short drive back home - I have now set it to 10kOhms ready for a drive to work tomorrow and will report back.

m1tch · #21 05-29-2015, 02:52 AM

Just a quick report back now that I have driven the car to work, at 10kOhms the car is much better, the lag has gone and its boosting to a stable 18psi.

I will try a stock setting, 10kOhms and 11kOhms tomorrow (if the weather holds) and see what the difference in times are.

m1tch · #22 05-30-2015, 10:32 AM

Right, I have now done a few drag runs with the car, I had the variable resistor plugged in but set to 0 on the first set of runs when the temperatures were cooler and the times were improving run on run. I then ran with some different settings between 10kohm to 11.5kohm.

On the way back I found that the variable resistor connectors weren't solid and I lost all boost (as if the MAP sensor was faulty or unplugged), however I do feel that the initial drag runs were still representative as I think the connections got loose on the way home through some twisty country roads.

Anyway, here are the drag times so far with a stock car:

Best time of the day was with 0 additional resistance, it ran a 17.65 @ 80.08mph, later runs when the track was much hotter the times were around 18 seconds.

I tried a few launch styles when using 0 additional resistance, just putting my foot down, foot down with overdrive button depressed and also revving on the line with the foot on the brake to build boost.

I found that the foot on the brake option gave the slightly quicker 60ft time however it seems that the initial start is key as there is sometimes a lag between foot down and acceleration.

With the additional resistor settings I found that the car bogged down more on the line, however did find that there was more mid range torque further up the revs meaning that I could see that I was gaining on the other car. However the additional lag off the line meant that overall the times were slower.

I have a feeling that the variable resistor might not have been giving a consistent connection meaning that the resistance might have been interrupted slightly - example when the gearbox shifts and shakes slightly.

The next time I will be running the car will have some weight removed - spare wheel, tool kit and rear seats. I will run the car with 0 resistance change and also the variable resistor, however this time ensure that the connection is solid.

This would mean that I can still compare the differences in the resistance with the same set up to see the differences - its just a shame that I didn't feel that today's runs were 100% perfect as a back to back comparison.

I am still going to set the initial benchmark time at 17.65 @ 80mph - its the fastest it has been so far and I feel is a representative time for the car considering it wasn't lightened in any way.

Stretch · #23 05-30-2015, 01:40 PM

Assuming 1/4 mile - seems like you are about what is to be expected =>

Mercedes 0-60 Times & Mercedes Quarter Mile Times | Mercedes-Benz SLR, S-Class, CLS-Class, G-Class, E-Class & more 0 to 60 stats!

m1tch · #24 05-30-2015, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Assuming 1/4 mile - seems like you are about what is to be expected =>

Mercedes 0-60 Times & Mercedes Quarter Mile Times | Mercedes-Benz SLR, S-Class, CLS-Class, G-Class, E-Class & more 0 to 60 stats!

Thanks for that, it seems that the E300TD in the W124 shape ran a 17.5 but that is stated that it was a saloon rather than the estate/wagon version I have, plus mine is the later W210 so it might be even heavier, I believe that E300 turbodiesel was running the OM603 rather than my OM606.

Researching a bit more into this it seems that my E300 turbodiesel should be running around 16.5 second 1/4 mile, but again this might be the saloon version rather than my heavier wagon/estate.

I will carry on and see what time I can get and keep this thread updated with any mods/combos of mods.

m1tch · #25 06-01-2015, 02:30 PM

My first slight tweak away from stock:

W210 airbox modification thread

Main focus will be around getting the stock engine to breath in and get the exhaust out - I will be looking to do a de-backbox at some point soon which should free up the exhaust and also reduce some weight.

m1tch · #26 06-01-2015, 04:24 PM

Also, if anyone wants to know what its like on the other side of the barrier down a drag strip here is some incar footage of one of the stock test runs:

m1tch · #27 06-05-2015, 07:27 AM

I have just ordered a small 30 degree exhaust pipe to replace the backbox, it looks like the bend just before the backbox is corroded and has been patched up using the exhaust gum stuff. I am going to simply cut off the rear backbox and replace it with a single pipe.

This will free up both the exhaust gasses as well as reducing a fair bit of weight (will weigh it when I remove it). Also if I need to I can easily add on a different back box if the UK MOT requires me to run one, although I still have the stock cat and mid box and diesels aren't exactly loud!

m1tch · #28 06-07-2015, 04:03 PM

I have now done a few more bits to the car, main thing was to change the backbox, the 90 degree elbow on the stock system seems to have been badly repaired, I have now simply cut the back box off and attached a short 30 degree downwards pipe to the rest of the stock system - eg not running a backbox.

The engine can now breathe much better and feels much more responsive than with the stock box, there isn't any drone at 60-70mph either so that's good news!

I have also added a small subtle 'R' badge to the front grill, the only thing that will be modified externally denoting that its not standard under the bonnet etc.

I have also weighed up some of the parts that I can easily remove for the car for weight saving. Here are some weights of the stock parts I can easily remove (without needing a socket set):

Stock backbox - 16kg
Spare wheel (this is a steel full sized spare!) - 23kg
Boot hinged cover over spare wheel - 5kg
Detachable tow bar - 11kg
Boot hinged cover with first aid kit - 7kg
Offside rear seat base - 12kg
Nearside rear seat base - 11kg

Total weight saving without a socket set: 85kgs

Parts I havn't yet removed to weight:

Rear seat backs - very heavy and will give substantial weight saving
Front passenger seat - heavy and luckily for me 100% manual so easy to unbolt
Rear boot seats - quite thin and probably not that heavy but should give a few extra kgs

I believe the weight of the car is around 1,700kg, so the simply removal of these items has given a weight saving of 5% of the total weight or indeed removing a large passenger from the car. The weight saving will be even greater when removing the seat back and passenger seat - removal of these 2 item will probably be as far as I will go with regards to weight saving.

m1tch · #29 06-27-2015, 02:44 PM

I have done a few more bits on my sleeper project, here are the details:

I noticed that the top of the injector pump looked slightly wet, I figured it was probably the delivery valve seals. I have taken the inlet manifold off (the bolt underneath is a really stupid idea!) unfortunately the injector hard lines were stuck fast, so I decided to give everything a clean up and simply add some high temp sealant around the outsides and under the locking tabs. Annoyingly I had the seals, washers and the special socket for the delivery valves, however I felt I would do more damage trying to muscle the hard lines off.

Not ideal but I did check the inlet manifold which was actually very clean, there was a light oil coating but no gunk at all. I also check that the EGR was correctly working which it was. I also painted up the inlet manifold in black (photos to follow).

I have also changed the air filter for a universal pod air filter to try it out - the air filter has improved throttle response and helped the boost and idle smoothness.

The next thing on the list is to replace the OEM turbo wastegate actuator with a boost controlled actuator rather than a vacuum actuated one.

m1tch · #30 07-12-2015, 10:21 AM

I have repainted the inlet manifold and swapped out the stock airbox with a basic cone filter:

I also now have an OM603 pump if I do go down the manual injection pump route but will see:

I am going to also look into making the stock turbo a hybrid, but I am also looking at other less conventional options, I have a 'spare' bleed air turbine from a commercial jet aircraft - it runs on air rather than exhaust gasses to power a compressor. I might look into fitting this to the stock turbo outlet

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