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  #61  
Old 03-31-2019, 12:06 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Still in the Palmetto State
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Headliner apron is now done ... getting close. Hopefully the interior will be "done" by the end of April ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lY8LhODURZM&feature=youtu.be


Last edited by greazzer; 03-31-2019 at 12:34 PM.
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  #62  
Old 03-31-2019, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h3ffe View Post
Can you post the part number of the darker turn signals?
I would like to purchase a pair but haven't gotten a definitive PN.

Thanks, Geoff
I don't know if the part # is stamped on the inside or is a sticker. If I need to pull it I will try to remember to take a picutre of the part #.
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  #63  
Old 04-01-2019, 02:47 PM
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Location: Still in the Palmetto State
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Interior is close to being done or I should say the remaining bigger pieces. I will need to dye everything so the interior is the same exact color of red. Otherwise, super happy it's getting done finally.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPI0PQkPL_c
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  #64  
Old 04-05-2019, 11:20 AM
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Parts are done ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgNNwSvRy5g
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  #65  
Old 04-05-2019, 12:46 PM
"One with my 71"
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post

Nice job. I like that you dyed the leather all together. I didn't see the dash in the thread, will that be redone in black leather?
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  #66  
Old 04-05-2019, 11:02 PM
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I don’t think so. I have a crack free dash but someone told me the windshield needs to be out to install a dash so hoping that’s not accurate
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  #67  
Old 04-06-2019, 12:12 AM
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I can attest the windshield does not need to be out in order to install a dash in a W123 car. The key is to slant the front lip of the dash so that it is positioned under the inside of the lower windshield rubber. The front of the dash is flexible. I have personally removed and installed at least 10 dashes in 123 cars.
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  #68  
Old 04-07-2019, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post
I don't know if the part # is stamped on the inside or is a sticker. If I need to pull it I will try to remember to take a picutre of the part #.
Appreciate it.
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1983 300D Midnight Blue
4 speed, W115 intake mani, non-EGR exhaust mani, KKK K26, 3 pc Euro bumpers, Lo-spec Euro headlights, AL129X, hubcaps, custom A/C

1987 300TD Smoke Silver
Euro headlights, thermostat relocation, coolant bypass mod, rebuilt Becker + Jehnert + Helix audio, OEM Oris roof boxes and surfboard racks, Euro towbar

1983 300TD Reed (Moss) Green / Dark Olive MB Tex Euro spec

1983 300TD Silver Blue / Blue cloth Euro spec, OM648 and 722.6, 15" hubcaps, W126 S2 brakes
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  #69  
Old 07-24-2020, 12:29 PM
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It is hot as can be in the Palmetto state right now, but I did install a 15.85mm rear sway bar and new exhaust. Pictures tomorrow to come. Wonder when the heat will ease up a little.
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  #70  
Old 07-27-2020, 07:21 PM
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Diesel Dandy
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
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Thumbs up Nice Project

I like this car ! .
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #71  
Old 07-30-2021, 01:08 AM
240D Speedster
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post
Drove the car this AM, en route to the body shop for re-painting of the AMG front chin and install. After that, plan on doing the same for the side skirts.

Will post a few snappies with parts' list as I installed new exhaust system, and re-did most of the fuel system, although I plan on swapping out the injectors again in a few weeks and re-doing the filters again ...

Would it be possible to get more details on the exhaust and fuel system work you mentioned here? I just picked up an 1983 240D and would like to do the same work. Any chance you have the parts list you mentioned? I found your oil change parts list very helpful.
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  #72  
Old 07-30-2021, 11:40 AM
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I’ll try. You can go to my site to see the #242 nozzles
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  #73  
Old 12-15-2021, 06:17 PM
240D Speedster
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post
I have a Chinese clone. I don't even think they are selling that brand any longer. I bought it about 2 years ago. The key IMO is 50 watts of cleaning power for every liter, 40,000 Hz I think is the norm for parts' cleaners. Do not confuse cleaning power with heating power. So, if it says 500 watts, make sure it's not 400 watts of heating power and only 100 watts of cleaning power. You can always pour your own hot water in the tank plus it gets hot on its own. I have a 2+ liter model. I was working on making my own cleaner since you can buy the transducers and generator for a decent price. Finding the "right" sized SS tank is the killer. Buying the super sized ones are really pricey, e.g., $3-5K, but I would not count on the Chinese products lasting more than 2-3 years. I already had to take the back off of mine a number of times to fix wiring, et cet. You can buy a Chinese clone in the ballpark of around $150 bucks shipped which has 50 watts of cleaning power per liter. Mine does a pretty decent job cleaning parts and I have been happy with it so far, but it's on borrowed time.

Hi Greazzer, what formulation do you use in your ultrasonic cleaner? I've heard of people using Mr. Clean or Simple Green. Are either of those your go to?
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  #74  
Old 12-16-2021, 06:23 AM
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Depends on what I am cleaning

Aluminum- make sure it does not have any lye

Metal - citrus cleaner or simple green is fine.

For a two liter sized cleaner I probably put in around four ounces

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