Pics from 83 300D Block Drain Plug Removal

[rkohut]

Did this on the 617.952 motor today before the rain moved in. This probably works on all 616 and 617s.

This was easier than I thought it would be. Setting up properly is about 80% of the job.

[JimmyL]

Thank you for that! I have to drain/flush/fill the wagon in the next week or two (or more), and that info will be nice to have.
So the turbo drain and all the other stuff isn't in the way I guess.......

[rkohut]

Originally Posted by JimmyL

Thank you for that! I have to drain/flush/fill the wagon in the next week or two (or more), and that info will be nice to have.
So the turbo drain and all the other stuff isn't in the way I guess.......

I don't recall seeing the turbo drain tube, probably because I approached the job from directly behind the rotor. Nothing in the way besides the tie rod.

When I first looked at the bolt it was WTF! But it ended up to be surprisingly easy.

[kerry]

Is this where the block heater goes? If so, the removal of the bolt is not as bad as has been reported in the past.

[rkohut]

Originally Posted by kerry edwards

Is this where the block heater goes? If so, the removal of the bolt is not as bad as has been reported in the past.

Above and behind the drain plug. (I got this pic from another site)

[airbus]

Originally Posted by rkohut

Above and behind the drain plug. (I got this pic from another site)

The stock block heater is where the wire is coming out. BTW, if this one burns out (happened to me ) you can install a 'tank type' engine heater (JCWhitney sells them) by replacing the drain plug with a hose connector and do some plumbing. I'm very pleased with the results, I bought the 1500W version which heats the engine to 60C (!) in less than a half hour (!).

[rg2098]

I forwarded your DIY write-up to the webmaster and has been posted to the Wiki page.

[Webmaster]

Originally Posted by rg2098

I forwarded your DIY write-up to the webmaster and has been posted to the Wiki page.

Done!

HERE IT IS

[eastthop]

I tried removing the radiator drain plug, but all it did was spin. Is it common for that plug to break?

[junqueyardjim]

As I recall that is about a nickel sized round plug below the front Bumper sheet metal. The plug is plastic and has screw driver marks across it both ways. It also has a lot of thread on it as I recall. If you turn it long enough I am pretty sure it will come out. If you can turn it and it doesn't come out, I am pretty sure it will leak like crazy.

[vstech]

hey everybody, pay attention to the pic of the drain plug (and washer) THERE IS A WASHER THERE!!!! you will most likely loose it when the gush of sludge comes spraying out. it's a 13MM aluminum crush washer. it may be best to have a few on hand before you pull the plug.

[eastthop]

Yep, I turned loose my Dewalt cordless on that plug, turned, turned, and turned some more. Nothing really happpened. I'll try some more, and maybe get the eze-outs out.

[Jeremy5848]

What's the thread size of the block drain plug? I'd like to make a fitting to go in that hole for flushing the engine. Hose water would flow into the block and out at the pressure cap opening on the overflow tank. With the thermostat out you could flush the whole system.

I have a radiator hose heater now but would like to have a block heater. Once I get the trap catalyst off of the engine (for testing) I'll be able to access the plug. With the trap cat in place, it's almost impossible to see, much less remove, the plug in the block.

Jeremy

[gatorblue92]

very nice pics... it looks the same on a 616 engine by the way

[eastthop]

Did not have to get the eze-outs, but did out a 1/8" drill bit in the drill, and poked a hole in the plug, after I realized I had snapped the plug cap. Did get the o-ring out, and have saved it. I then drilled a couple of holes in the plug, and used a flat head screwdriver to twist the plug out. THen, just running clean water thru the radiator, got a lot of nasty junk out. Once I get a new plug in, I;ll flush with the citric flush.