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  #16  
Old 10-17-2004, 03:43 PM
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I think I have a couple used ones. What number is it?

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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
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  #17  
Old 10-17-2004, 06:25 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Lawrenceville, GA
Posts: 27
Unhappy

Steve,

I got the part # 124 545 5532. Hope you got one, I just saw what fastlane is asking, and this is breaking the bank for me.
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  #18  
Old 10-17-2004, 06:51 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Lawrenceville, GA
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Question Hmmm?

After looking around for my cruise amp VDO. I wonder is a cruise amp and a cruise actuator the same part? If so, this isn't as expensive as I thought. Perhaps Phil can clear this up for me tommorrow? There is about a $1000 diff in other parts suppliers. As far as I can tell, these are the same parts? I will definitely give Phil the call first to confirm his price since I have been happy with the service thus far.
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  #19  
Old 10-17-2004, 07:26 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Lawrenceville, GA
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OOps not the same part

Ok, so the amp and actuator are not the same but I still see some cruise amps for around $200 +/-. Versus the $1200 +/- at other places. Why me? Anthing worth while takes time........right? Money too I guess.
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  #20  
Old 10-20-2004, 12:12 PM
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Location: Newport News Virginia
Posts: 15
Have you considered the voltage regulator?

Don't know how helpful this will be, but I just dodged the 1000$ TBA bullet by replacing the voltage regulator. I had the ASR and Check Engine light on and was in limp mode. I have a partial warrantee so took it to the dealer who initially said TBA. Ended up being the voltage regulator. If your problems persist, this may be the culptrit. It plays hell with the Check Engine, too.

I have a 95 E320 wagon and the part was $80 retail, about 35 at the local import parts guy.
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  #21  
Old 10-20-2004, 12:23 PM
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I had some of the same symptoms on my own car. It turned out that the component compartment cover behind the battery had worked it's way loose. I found the OVP full of water. After I replaced it the idle fluctuation, hesitation, cruise inop, and clicking noise symptoms were gone. After about a year everything is still OK. The clicking noise was the E-GAS control unit switching on and off. I hope this helps.
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  #22  
Old 10-20-2004, 10:49 PM
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Arthur,

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but do you know if the home-brew Code Reader tool that you describe for the '95 E320, is also compatible with a '95 E300D?

Thanks

Phil
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'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it]
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  #23  
Old 10-20-2004, 11:00 PM
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Location: Florida / N.H.
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I do not know .
I emailed you back asking for chassis #, but you did not answer.
I guess it is chassis 121.131, but I have no Diesel books.
Do you have a diagnostic socket box?
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  #24  
Old 10-20-2004, 11:08 PM
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Location: Montreal, Canada
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Hi Arthur,

Actually I did E-Mail you back but I guess somehow It did not get to you.

In any event, my car is a 124 Chassis, and I do have a diagnostic socket box. Its near the Battery. It has 16 Pins but only 6 of the 16 are live . The rest are just empty holes.

The pins that do have a connector are: 1-2-4-6-7-16.

Apparently there are only very few codes that this car provides, they are:

code cause
2 Engine speed sensor L3 bad
3 ELR temp sensor bad (B11/4
6 ELR (Y22) shorted
8 ELR (Y22) open
9 Control unit (N8, N8/1) faulty.

I just need the means to read, and reset those codes. That's why I asked the question.

Thanks

Phil
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'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it]

Last edited by pberku; 10-20-2004 at 11:17 PM.
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  #25  
Old 10-20-2004, 11:12 PM
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Location: Florida / N.H.
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I guess I passed your email by ... That is why I mentioned I do not open emails that have no subject line.

Anyway, I guess the reader will work then.
How many pins does your box have?
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  #26  
Old 10-20-2004, 11:19 PM
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Arthur,

I just finished editing my last post. It now has the information that you requested.

Phil
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'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it]
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  #27  
Old 10-20-2004, 11:30 PM
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OK

If you have the 16 pin , then the tool should work..
Pin 1 will be blk [ neg/gnd], pin 16 will be red [ pos/12v] and the other goes to the other pins that have codes , but I have no info on which is what.
I do have up to 93 EDS and they use pin 4 , but that is just a guess for yours..
You could try each....or maybe someone here knows Diesel codes..
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  #28  
Old 10-20-2004, 11:42 PM
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Found more info on 16 pin

5 is ASD , 6 is SRS , and 7 is AC , so 4 should be it....
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  #29  
Old 10-21-2004, 12:54 AM
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Location: Denver, Colorado
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ECU Fried?

See my post about a possible fried ECU:

misfiring, rough idle, poor mpg, undriveable!
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  #30  
Old 10-21-2004, 12:54 AM
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Arthur,

I am not clear on your last 2 post (Posts No. 27, and 28), and am not even sure that I am sure of the concept yet.

In post No 27, ARE YOU SAYING that I should be able to read ALL of the Codes by counting the number of LED pulses on Pin 4, and that with the exception of Pins 1(-) and 16 (+), I don't need to worry about any of the other Pins?, If so than what are the other Pins for?

In post No. 28, when you say that: "5 is ASD , 6 is SRS , and 7 is AC , so 4 should be it...."

a) Are the numbers 5, 6, and 7 Pin Nos, or the number of LED pulses?
b) What do you mean by "so 4 should be it"?

Phil

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'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it]

Last edited by pberku; 10-21-2004 at 12:12 PM.
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