I’m new to the site, and I must say, quite a resource that I have been reading for a few days now. I do nearly every bit of work on my own vehicles, and my friend and family. I bought a 1987 420 SEL a month ago with 243K for $1700. It runs excellent, and drives great. It burns a little oil, but it does not seem to be a problem. It’s to be expected for a car of this vintage. I do oil changes religiously at either 3k or 3 months. My other vehicle is a jeep Cherokee, and it’s a breeze to change the oil. Anyway, I have been reading about cranking with the coil plug off to set the tensioner? Could someone clear that up for me? In addition, I have all of the factory manuals, but they don’t help much at all. I plan to use Delo 15W-40 in the 126. Could someone write a checklist on exactly what to do, so I don’t break the chain guides. I plan to check the chain guides when I change the oil, because now it actually keeps me up at night, and I need to get some sleep. If ya could, give me the steps for changing oil 1...2...3...etc. and I know what I'm doing, just not sure of the particulars.
Thanks.
Mark

Others may say differently but I have been doing oil changes on my 560 w/290k miles the last 13 years the "normal" way that other cars are done the same where you dump the oil, install new oil filter and oil then you should be good to go.

When checking for the chain guides, also check the chain to see how much it has stretched. It's a good car to keep if you can do most of the work yourself.

just enjoy the car and sleep well.

__________________
1991 420SEL Project Car (Completed and rides beautifully) http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/112321-free-1991-420sel.html
2000 BMW 740IL
2000 Integra Type R - Track Car - SOLD
2005 S2000 - Track Car
06 C230 Sport
89 560SL

Hi, Mark,

I had a 420SEL for over five years, and changed the oil as you do every 3K (when I drove more, in Denver) or 3 months (I drive less back here in NO). It's very easy. I too used Delo 15W-40 in the big grey beast, and when I had to have the oil pan replaced due to pothole damage, my regular mechanic said the inside of the engine was as clean as the proverbial whistle. I also noticed better hot oil pressure with the 15W-40, even though it's technically thinner than the 20W-50 I'd used earlier.


You'll need a 13mm socket to remove both the bolt for the oil filter canister and the drain plug down below, if you do the traditional draining method. Of course have paper towels on hand, and those rubber surgical gloves are neat -- they'll keep your hands clean and let you handle warm metal.

1. You'll need a big pan that holds 9 quarts or more, because your engine holds 8.5; those little 5-quart pans won't cut it.

2. The filter canister is located on the passenger side of the engine (if you're in America. If you're in a country where you drive on the left, I suppose it's on the same side as the steering wheel). The nice thing is that it's only about halfway down the side, so you can reach it from above; none of that using a filter wrench on a canister sticking out of the engine while you lie on your back and get a faceful of oil. Undo the bolt, lift off the canister lid, remove the old filter, put in the new (I used Mann or Knecht filters). It can only go in one way.

3. When the oil's finished dripping, put the plug back with the new copper washer that comes with the oil filter. Snug it down. I don't know the torque; I always just got it tight and checked for leaks.

4. Up top again, replace the large rubber gasket around the edge of the filter canister lid with the new one from the oil filter package. Lid back in place. I think there's a copper washer for the bolt, too. Snug it down with the socket.


5. Put in 7-8 quarts of oil.

6. (Optional; recommended to me by my regular mechanic in Denver) Unplug the coil wire (you'll find it at the right front of the engine compartment, your right as you face your car). Again, make sure the oil filter canister is tight, and that you put in the oil! Then crank the engine, watching your oil pressure gauge, until the needle begins to come up to 1 or so. Hop out, reconnect coil plug, hop back in and fire up the engine.

7. Let it run for a minute, watching the oil pressure of course. Shut it down, check for leaks. Give it a couple of minutes to let the new oil drain back into the sump a little, then check the dipstick. Top off the oil as needed until it reaches midway between the Add and Fill marks.

8. Take nasty old oil to recycler.

9. (Most important point) Revel in the knowledge you've done it yourself, it was done right, and you saved a ton over going to what people here call Jiffy Screw.

Now if the draining thing is awkward for you, you can use the oil suction device called the Topsider. Do a search here and you'll find lots of pro and con information on it. I bought one and am glad I did.

Good luck!

__________________
* *
-- Paul W. (The Benzadmiral)
('03 Buick Park Avenue, charcoal/cream)
Formerly:
'97 C230, smoke silver/parchment; '86 420SEL, anthracite/light grey; '84 280CE (W123), dark blue/palomino

Cool. Thanks for the info. I was unaware of the crush nut/ washer on the drain plug. Most of the cars i have ever changed used the plastic washer on the plug.

What does one do with the metal ring that comes in the filter kit?

__________________
1984 300SD Orient Red/ Palomino
1989 560SEC
2016 Mazda 6 6 speed manual
1995 Ford F-150 reg cab 4.9 5speed manual

That washer goes on the large bolt that holds the cover to the oil filter.


Ben

Are you talking about the small copper washer or the larger copper ring that comes in the kit? The ring looks too big to put on the large bolt?

__________________
1984 300SD Orient Red/ Palomino
1989 560SEC
2016 Mazda 6 6 speed manual
1995 Ford F-150 reg cab 4.9 5speed manual

Yes ,the copper washer is for the filter bolt , and I think the copper crush ring you are refering to is for the oil pan drain plug, Although it has been years since I have seen one in my oil filter kit. Usualy I just get the rubber O-ring for the filter cap ,the copper washer for the bolt and a filter.


Ben

if you are going to change your oil every 3 thousands miles, I would invest in a topsider to remove your oil less work.. Also run mobile one 20/50 increase your oil changes to 7500 miles.. remove the coaxial fitting on the ezl this will prevent the engine from starting.. crank engine until oil pressure just starts to kick the needle, replace the plug start the engine. Stop engine check oil level and leaks..
Bob

with the mileage you have on this car, I would check chain stretch.. you said use little oil, when you start the engine are there puffs of blue smoke at the tail pipe, if so valve stem seals need replacing.. If you hear a slapping sound when starting the engine shut it down!!! You need to replace the chain, tensioner, along with upper guides.. the guide on the left side of the engine is the one that is varnable to breakage, an damage your engine by breaking off an lodging inself into the cam gear,those blowing the engine..
Don't full with this if you hear chain slap, it wipes out the valves which requires a valve job $$$$
Bob