I'm trying to remove that pin that is in the front of the head and holds the plastic timing chain guides in place.

I'm at my wits end just about. I can't find the special tool listed in the service manual. I tried to improvise one with a bolt, washer, and a weight to act as a slide hammer, but it just isn't happening. Do I need to heat the head first? It just shouldn't take that much force to remove that pin. Should it? I mean, any more forceful impacts, and it might strip out the threads in that pin, and then where will I be?

Help me Obi-Wan...

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On the plains of hesitation bleach the bones of countless millions who at the dawn of victory, sat down to wait, and waiting -- died

I tried using the metric bolt/washer setup and it didn't work, but a slide hammer did on a M102.

There are two tools sold on eBay...one is if the engine is in the car and one (slide hammer type) is if the engine is out of the car. The one which pulls the pins when the engine is in the car at item #4359031689. The other type is at item #3864044044. You can search under "Mercedes Rail Pin" if the item numbers are no longer valid.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

The bolts and nuts did not work for me. If you want to try it, the bolt size is 6 x 45. As the timing cover was leaking on my car. I remove the chain cover, after the timing cover is removed.

Jack

I used a long piece of M6 bar (i think it was M6). I then had a piece of flat steel with a 6mm hole in it. This was a lever (so make it long). Put an M6 nut over the bar, then geta piece of metal or wood to act as a fulcrum, then lever the dowel out bit by bit, hope the illustration helps a bit, see attached bmp.

Attached Images

dowel.bmp (37.2 KB, 692 views)

Post withdrawn.

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Lawrence Coppari

2002 SLK32 AMG
2005 Acura TL
1987 328GTS
1986 944T

Bolts and washers worked for me. It helps to get full engagement of the thread depth, lubricate the threads, and iterate by adding washers as needed to maintain good thread engagement.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K