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#1
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can't see the picture. anyhow, i think it's the pulse duration too. something called "double unlock pulse" doesn't sound right...
Speedy300dturbo had it right. Here's that animated explanation I referenced before: click on the button that says "interfacing Mercedes vacuum doorlock" This is the electrical schematic of what you are trying to do with those two relays (from the Crutchfield solution): ![]()
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joE 1993 300e-2.8 - gone now <sigh> "Do not adjust your mind, it's reality that's malfunctioning" http://banners.wunderground.com/bann...L/Key_West.gif |
#2
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Sorry about the image guys. Still learning... Hopefully you can see this diagram:
![]() Thanks for all your input. Last edited by DaCanes; 09-27-2002 at 08:58 AM. |
#3
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dacanes,
saw your pic once then it's not showing again. the only thing i noticed is that you didn't show the connections for the +12V and ground to the relays, i don't know if the DLSV handles that for you. the two 87's are connected to positive and negative respectively. the 85's and 86's are the triggers, they obviously need to be triggered independently... HTH
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joE 1993 300e-2.8 - gone now <sigh> "Do not adjust your mind, it's reality that's malfunctioning" http://banners.wunderground.com/bann...L/Key_West.gif |
#4
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SUCCESS AT LAST!!!!!!!!
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Would you believe that the DLSV was wired incorrectly? I created a temporary relay connection as per speedy300Dturbo's diagram and it worked. I wonder if the other guys that had problems had the same DLSV hook up? I then took it a step further and tapped into the convenience module to arm and disarm the alarm. That worked fine too ![]() ![]() ![]() However, I am noticing something weird with the windows. When the windows are down and I press the lock button the car locks and the windows go up but only for 3 inches and then stop. Has anybody experienced this? Any ideas? Special thanks to jsmith and tkamiya for their guidance when I was really close, and to speedy300Dturbo for the diagram that made it all possible. And to my mother, my father . . . . . . |
#5
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way to go! can you post the error in the DLSV wiring? there had been complaints before. BTW the convenience module handles the power windows among other things - could it be you hooked up something there by mistake?
also, what year & model is your car? could never figure out that bit about the convenience module. mine is a '93 and i wired into the trunk, no convenience module hookup and it still arms and disarms the alarm. now if onlys someone can enlighten us on the flashing lights confirmation...
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joE 1993 300e-2.8 - gone now <sigh> "Do not adjust your mind, it's reality that's malfunctioning" http://banners.wunderground.com/bann...L/Key_West.gif |
#6
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It's a 1992 300E. I will post the error on the DLSV wiring.
After playing with the remote I realized that the window glitch happens when I press a remote button within close succession. I remember my mechanic telling me that once you lock the doors you can unlock and lower the windows only if you do it within 15 seconds. I wonder if that has anything to do with it. It seems that the control unit is transmitting a short signal (windows moving up but only a few inches) instead of a long signal (which would simulate the key being turned and held for a few seconds). I'll play with it a little more and will post. Now I have to do some soldering and heat shrinking before I short the whole system. |
#7
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Working now
My 95 E300 is a keyless/arm the alarm wonder now. Hooked the crutchfield stuff up per the instructions, and added the two wires over to the convenience module and voila--keyless that works great and arms and disarms the factory alarm.
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#8
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did anyone try it without the convenience module hookups? what happened? did the alarm not work? my trunk installation didn't require a connection to the convenience module and it arms / disarms the alarm no problem...
__________________
joE 1993 300e-2.8 - gone now <sigh> "Do not adjust your mind, it's reality that's malfunctioning" http://banners.wunderground.com/bann...L/Key_West.gif |
#9
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I have my system installed without the comfort and convenieence hookup. The system works perfectly and activates/deactivates the alarm system. I believe it does this because the way the keyless entry is wired as described in this thread, it fools the locking system into thinking somebody used a key to lock the driver's side door. This in turn does all the stuff locking the car with a key would.
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#10
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now if only someone can detail the best way to do the confirmation parking light flash...
__________________
joE 1993 300e-2.8 - gone now <sigh> "Do not adjust your mind, it's reality that's malfunctioning" http://banners.wunderground.com/bann...L/Key_West.gif |
#11
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DaCanes:
Just wondering if you've got a chance to scan the REC-11 programming instructions? I really appreciate your help! Thanks again. |
#12
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jsmith: I posted in an earlier thread about how to do the parking light flash correctly. Check it out!
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#13
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E. Lee, yes I have scanned the programming section for the REC-11. Let me know where you want me to send it.
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#14
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Why the windows go up
Hey DeCanes,
This may be info that you already have, but... When you lock the car using the key and hold the key in the locking position for about 2 seconds the windows and sunroof should begin to close. In order for them to close all the way you must hold the key in locking position until they're done. If you turn the key back before they have closed, the windows/sunroof will stop going up. This is the same in reverse for unlocking the car. My guess is that the remote sends the signal but only in a burst and initiates the closing. When the signal stops...so does the closing. I haven't installed the keyless yet but am definitely going to. I've been told several times to forget about keyless with this car and was bummed about it. This thread has made my day!
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#15
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KE suggestion
1) I'm an EE and terrible at following simple instructions. Can I suggest that in any such future article, that it not just say "connect the yellow wire to the blue wire".
If the purpose were added, for example "connect the yellow IGNITION wire to the blue KE Ignition input wire". The value of that additional ink is immeasureable. In this way, those of use who purchase a slightly different thingy and have a slightly different car, can cope with the differences, easily checking them out. In my old age, I prefer to verify everything, having blown up a variety of devices. 2) I need to understand the 'convenienve module' inputs. Is there are wiring diagram anywhere? Paul 1993 190e installing Code Alarm Elite 4100 |
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