Got a quote for some engine mounts today - I'm pretty sure my vibration when accelerating and turning the wheel left is down to them.

Price from a Mercedes dealer is nearly triple that for an aftermarket "German made" (apparently) one. Seems an obvious choice but...


This month's Mercedes Enthusiast has a buying guide for the 190E, and an 'expert'-type chap there says engine mounts commonly need replacing, and he wouldn't use anything other than original Mercedes parts. Anyone agree or disagree with this?


Russ

__________________
190E's:
2.5-16v 1990 90,000m Astral Silver
2.0E 8v 1986 107,000m Black 2nd owner
http://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall.jpghttp://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall2.jpg

I bought a pair off E-Bay for my 190E for 50 bucks. They sucked and I have since bought two more from EuropeanAutomotive for 50 bucks a piece. The ones from Euro compared to E-Bay are actually taller and look better built! They also got rid of my annoying idle shakes. I have only done one so far since I broke my socket on the drivers side one so I need to still replace the drivers side one again, from the e-bay to the good one. But the engine idles nice and smooth now as far as feel or non-feeling it goes.

__________________
~Jamie
_________________
2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's.

1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....

Aftermarket parts are ok replacements most of the time but motor mounts seem to be an exception.
I have a 92 300D and had to change out the original mounts at 130k miles. The mounts I used were aftermarket (febi). Even after I changed them, I still had some rattling in the engine compartment which I attributed to something else.
At 160,000 miles the motor started shaking again. This time I ordered Mercedes original mounts because the first ones had held up much better than the replacements. (130k vs 30k miles) The original mounts looked different in that they have a smooth hemispherical top as opposed to the fluted top on the replacements.
The car is smooth and the rattle is gone.
I suggest that you shop around because the original ones were only about 20% more in my case.

__________________
Tom Hughes
St. Louis
84 300SD
92 300D
86 300SDL

I got aftermarket from ------- and they sucked . Put them on and they collapsed. Tried to effect an exchange as they were on less than an hour (really) and they told me to fly a kite.
Go with original

__________________
Ron
2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace

I'll add to the stick with the OEM part in this situation. I bought some non-OEM and they barely lasted a year.

me too, me too. i am sensing a trend towards the OE.

__________________
Jonathan
1998 S600
2001 E430
1994 E320
1991 560SEL
1994 Turbo R

Yep the new ones I got were som much diferent than the ones I got from somewhere else. They are taller as they are supposed to be and have the tops that are seen in the pictures and rubber is a lot better on them as well. The ones I got of E-Gay were no diferent than the two old ones I had. The two olds ones could have been cheapie's as well for all I know. Engine runs much smoother at idle now and does not jump around any longer either.

__________________
~Jamie
_________________
2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's.

1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....