Guys/gals I need some help. The ride in my wife's car, '87 TD, is getting worse by the day. She is riding super hard/stiff. I bought new accumulators thinking it would be as easy as my '83 TD, but Nooooooo. The accumulators aren't mounted on the underside of the car as I had expected. They are inside, under the cargo floor. I removed the screws for the center section, but the panel still won't come up. I need help quick, before the car rattles apart on me. Also, the lines under that car have alot of corrosion on them, words of caution? I have replaced the ones on my '83.
BTW what is the average life span of these accumulators?

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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member

have fun!i just did my 300te.what a knuckle bustin dirty job.most of the work is done underneath the car.each accumulater has 3 10mm fasteners which will probably breakoff so be ready with new ones.the hydraulic lines require an 11mm brake line wrench.get the longest one available as the working room is tight.dont bother trying to remove the lines from the level valve unless you plan to replace it.the valve body is made of aluminum the lines are steel .chances are they will be inseperable.the banjo bolt connection on each accum will require a hex key to remove.this system is pressurised so be careful.i assume you will be refilling with new oil and you will need to bleed the system.best way to do this is take your biggest best friends put them in the back seat and go for a ride

I did this job years ago. Don't recall any particular problem getting the load floor out of the way. I remember a few screws well-hidden in the carpet, and perhaps two that were accessed by folding up the seatback of the third row seat.

- JimY

Kroil is the best bolt opener I have used. You do NOT want to break anything. I get mine at Napa. http://www.kanolabs.com/

Some of the fittings are way in there and take forever to thread and unthread. Patience Luke.

If you do it on smooth concrete, all the oil that sprays out all over you and your hair can be used to slide around while working, not the most ideal situation but I always try to find a silver lining. I had to gojo my hair arms and torso in the shower. Wife was not please when I leaned on the wall by accident. Self Leveling Rear Suspension Fluid Replacement

I bled off 1.5 liters of fluid until no more came out at the level bleeder. Came out like shaving foam. The damn thing still sprayed all over me.

Change your fluid after you are done -- not too difficult -- and a good time since most will already be out.

Notice weight of old and new accs -- my old ones were much heavier -- full of fluid.

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David
1986 300E Anthracite + ECodes + MB Mileage Award

How many screws hold the floor panel down? I removed 4. Does the panel come straight up, or is there some shuffling you have to do? I know that the carpeted section over the wheel wells, overlaps the floor panel, but I lifted up one of these and still the flor panel wouldn't come up. I grabbed the edge of the panel that meets up the backseat seatbacks, but it wouldn't budge. I don't know maybe if I give it another shot something will come to me. IT's probably something obvious that I am overlooking.

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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member

Looks like there are six screws holding the floor in place! I'll attach the appropriate picture from the 124 shop manual.

- JimY

Attached Thumbnails

 

Thanks, I'll look for those.

__________________
1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member