I am trying to change the oil in my 320 for the first time and would like to know if there is an easier way to or drain the oil other than extracting it? Is there a drain on the underside of the oil pan like other vehicles? Any help in this area would be helpful on the change itself or any other probs you have had.

Thanks from a female ML 320 owner

Welcome!

I think there is a wealth of info on this. If you haven't already done so, do a search -- using terms like "ml oil change" or some such.

As I recall, there is an issue with at least some MLs in gravity draining the oil, as it hits a rubber suspension part unless you deflect it with a cut-up plastic milk jug. Others choose to use a Topsider or equivalent to prevent such a problem (since all MBs designed in the last 20 years or so are designed to have their oil extracted from above).

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Steve
'93 400E

Blondie:

Can't speak exactly to a ML-320.. but on my 97 C230 >> oil change is a piece of cake..

Jack up the front of your benz.

Chock rear wheels with 2x4 or better 4x4

I use a floor jack and position the floor jack on hte rubber bumper pad. Once car is up > position a jackstand under the frame. I use a 6x6 inch piece of plywood to protect metal on metal contact.

Gently lower the one side >> now repeat the procedure fo rthe other side.

Great >> now you have hte car front end jacked up .

Give it a good shake > to ensure stability before climbing under the car >>

Under the car you should have a plastic splash pan .. affixed by 8-9mm bolts >> detatch the splas pan

Now you see the oil pan >> there will be a drain plug >> unscrew the drain plug and the oil comes out > into your oil catch pan..

To remove the top mounted oil filter > youneed the special benz oil filter removal tool > can be purchased at the fastlane parts/tools

Using the MB tool > basicilly a large socket > unscrew the oil filter cap > using a rag to catch dripping oil > lift up and remove old filter ..

Noting positioning of old filter > replace with new filter..Torque to specified value>> something like 18 ft/pounds [torque wrench ]

So > you need some general purpose and specialized tools >> but the cost of the tools is negliable after a few oil changes

Good idea to get a DIY manual > Haynes if you plan on working on your car

good luck and enjoy

kgl

Noe this is a piece of cake- http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OilFilter2

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1999 C280 Sport, 1967 911s Porsche

I change the oil in my 98 ML by draining it throught the drain in the pan. I use an ~8in. plastic funnel to keep the oil from getting on the suspension pieces. The funnel came from Wal-Mart and I think it cost about $.99. I can get to everything without jacking the truck up. First I break the plug bolt loose but do not remove it. Next I squezze the funnel into place. I goes up and ove the suspension and fits tight between the suspension and the bottom of the oil pan. I then remove the plug by hand and the oil drains in my catch container. I have drained the oil several times this way and only have a small amount on the bottom of the pan near the drain to clean up when I am done. Hope this helps.

Other methods can be cheaper, more intuitive and less controversial but how can anything be easier than extracting?

Where is that 'hide topic from Larry Bible' option?

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

Since when do you need a "special tool" to change to top-mounted oil filter? I just unscrew it by hand, and hand tighten it. I've been doing it for 40k miles now, oil change every 3k. No leaks or issues. And I use the drain plug on the bottom of the engine.

One thing I did notice, is that the oil capacity is like 7.8qts (1995 E320 / m104) and yet every time I only get out about 5-5.5 qts. The oil is not down when I change it. And I jack the right-rear up during draining.

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2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 4Matic
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320 Wagon
2005 Land Rover LR3 V8 SE
1999 Audi A8 4.2L quattro

i prefer to suck it out..... i have mixed luck when removing a top mount filter however.... sometimes oil leaks down to the garage floor, other times not a drop.

I think it must have something to do with the filters... I have just switched over to Bosch...so we'll see how they do...

I do not have an ML. I just want to minimize my time jacking up a car and crawling underneath it...

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

I'd be careful about only hand tightening it. I've seen quite a few of these spew their fluids because the filter cap was not tight enough, also be careful of pinching the upper seal, can make quite a mess.

Spec is 25Nm but a good pull with a 3/8' ratchet on the tool does the trick nicely. Large channel locks with a rag can be substituted if you don't have the Hazet oil filter tool.

One last thing, the 320 has no lower encapsulation panel, only the V8's came with them, held in by 6 cheap plastic screws. They will break on removal, get new ones in advance.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

You can hand-tighten enough to where the lip on the filter enclosure sits flush with base. The o-ring is sealed inside. Watch for leaks a couple of minutes with engine on. Hand-tighten is just fine.

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2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 4Matic
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320 Wagon
2005 Land Rover LR3 V8 SE
1999 Audi A8 4.2L quattro