Hi
I live in Norway, and discovered this good site when I was looking for answer for my problem.
I have 90 mod 260E who is using a lot of gasoline. I have replaced O2 sensor and Electrohydraulic Aktuator (EHA).
Duty Cycle(DC) is fluctuating around 50% with cold engine. O2 sensor 0.2v.
When the engine is warm the DC goes to 92% and stay there until I give the engine some RPM, then he goes to 48-52% a little time before returning to 92%
The readings at O2 sensor is 0.01v when DC is 92%
I have also check the resistance of the engine controls coolant sensor, and is OK
I have tried to adjust the air-fuel mixture, but there is no change in my readings on DC and O2 sensor.
Is there anybody in your big country who has a solution on my problem?

What is the DC Voltage at idle between pins 1 and 2 of the Air Flow Sensor Potentiometer, with plug pulled off halfway?
It should be 0.6 to 0.7 VDC.
With plug disconnected, engine off, what are the resistance values between pin 1 and pin 2 at 0 deflection, 1-3 mm, 5 mm, 10 mm, etc?
Should start around 1K, ramping up to 9.5K as a linear function, and drop back down to 6-7K at W.O.T.
Cheers,
Mark

Hi
I have measured pin 1 and 2 and got 0.64 V
Ohm between pin 1 and 2
0 mm = 3,4 K,
2 mm = 10K,
3 mm = ∞. ?
4 mm = 3,8K (on the edge, starting to bee hard to press)
5 mm = 15 K - ∞. ?
10 mm = 8K
15 mm = 11,4
20 mm = 10,6K
25 mm =15K
30mm = 11,2
W.O.T = 8,1K
The first 1-5 mm, (before the idle possession) the measurement fluctuates a lot (between 4-∞.K ) The first 1-5 mm the measurement is not linear,
When the engine is running the Air flow plate(?) is about 5 mm depressed and in this area I measured 15 K - ∞. Is this my problem?
I have also measured between pin 1 and 3 and this was 4 K

It sounds like that may be at least one of your problems. Check out these threads:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopfor...ght=duty+cycles

and...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopfor...&threadid=61858

I've been tracking this down for a few weeks.
In the meantime, I've disconnected the EHA, and have been driving without it. Its hard to start, but once warmed up, works much better. I'm tempted to wire the EHA to a remote 'Defeat" switch. ON to start and warm up, then OFF once its warmed up.
I'll be attempting to obtain the resistor alone, and soldering it into the Air Flow Sensor body. Possibly $60 -$75 for the part vs hundreds$$$ for the complete sensor.
Good luck

Hi M Woodland
Tanks for the help so fare, I will also tray to drive without EHA and see what’s happening.
I Wasn’t able to open your threads, can you try to post them one more time?