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  #31  
Old 06-01-2005, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89-300ce
Man lino, your just throwing money at your cars. Maybe you should send me your used parts?

Jorg
If I can't make a 300ce run well then I'm calling it quits and leasing a car with warranty .

If I had a good spare parts bin you'd be more than welcome to have what you want. All the parts that I've replaced on my car had a problem to begin with. Imagine me sending you bad parts. Now how would that reflect my image...not too good. I only like to do things right the first time and do them them best way I know.

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1989 300CE Astralsilber/Schwarz
1992 300CE Schwarz/Schwarz
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  #32  
Old 06-01-2005, 10:46 AM
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Location: Baton Rouge La
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I had this problem last week with my CE.. One of the regulator brushes was only making partial contact. it wore funny.. had a replacement on the shelf.

Problem fixed...

This is a bit off topic........ but there is a wrecked CE about two hours from me. It is on Ebay. I am considering buying it and parting it out. It may make sense to have some additional spare parts for many of us.... I have to think about it for a bit. I think the most valuable parts would be the front door sheet metal.... I guess most other mechanical stuff is the same as a 300e.....
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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


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  #33  
Old 06-01-2005, 11:10 AM
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I'd be interested in door and quarter glass if in good condition, not scratched by grit in the felts. Did they all have the same tint?

Jorg
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  #34  
Old 06-01-2005, 12:10 PM
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I have to take a closer look at the pictures of the car.... which door.... this car was totaled pretty badly..... front and back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 89-300ce
I'd be interested in door and quarter glass if in good condition, not scratched by grit in the felts. Did they all have the same tint?

Jorg
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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]
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  #35  
Old 06-01-2005, 02:41 PM
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I'm interested in the drivers side door glass. I'd be interested in all side glass if the price was reasonable. That's on condition that the glass has no scratches in it. My drivers door glass has fine scratches in it from the PO using it while he had sand in the door felt. Does all coupe glass have the same tint? It appears similar from the pictures.

Jorg
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  #36  
Old 06-01-2005, 04:27 PM
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Car didn't start today again!!!!

Well I can't wait until my new alternator arrives~
I hope that breathes air into this lifeless car.

Can anyone recommend a good brand of cable and connections or where to buy them to adapt to the 150 amp aleternator I bought?
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1992 300CE Schwarz/Schwarz
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  #37  
Old 06-07-2005, 07:20 PM
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I was supposed to get my new alternator today, but thanks to customs/border it won't arrive until tomorrow. I have to pay for the shipping of the alternator, the exchange from USD to Canadian, brokerage fees, dispursement fee, duty, federal sales tax, provincial sales tax and top it off deal with customs that held my alternator since Friday and didn't realease it until yesterday! Waht a waste of time and money.

Now with that said, I took my car in for testing. I thought a second opinion wouldn't hurt. I figured I should test the alternator that is on the car now, the stock 70 amp, and record the results so that I can do a comparison after I have the new 150 amp alternator installed. For those of you who have been following my other threads you know that I just put a brand new voltage regualtor and that didn't solve my drainage problem. Here are the results:





Aparantly, the alternator is working fine according to this machine. I don't know what's going on with my car yet, but I can tell you that I'm still going to upgrade the alternator. I tested the battery these last couple of days and it is holding a charge. This is getting to be long in the tooth.
Attached Thumbnails
W124 is dead once again.-dsc035212oq.jpg   W124 is dead once again.-dsc035245mp.jpg  
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1989 300CE Astralsilber/Schwarz
1992 300CE Schwarz/Schwarz

Last edited by whunter; 07-05-2008 at 11:46 AM. Reason: attached pictures
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  #38  
Old 06-07-2005, 09:29 PM
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Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Just for the fun of it

I worked all weekend on my car with doors open and many starts. Of course, I finally drained the battery.

Well, I got i charged enough to get i started and drove an hour to get it better charged.

Next day I drove to work, and when I was going home in the late afternoon, the starter did not react at all. I was extremely busy, and my immediate thought was that the cells had collapsed. I needed the car for a long journey early next morning, and the shops were about to close, so I was desperate to reach a shop in a hurry.

I cancelled my other activities, and I barely made it to the shop. I got the new battery installed.... but same result: No start.

The problem: Remember to set the gear in Park position.
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  #39  
Old 06-08-2005, 08:31 PM
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I recharged the battery on the slow charge 2 days ago and yesterday when I put the battery in the car, the car started like a charm. I drove teh car yesterday and made a few stops and had no problems. This morning I turned the car on and it started like a charm once again. I drove around all day today and had no issues. I go home feeling good thinking maybe the car is fine now. Maybe it was the voltage regulator that was the problem. No chance of that . An hour and a half later, I tried to close the widows in the car and it was dead again . I'm wondering how the battery could have that quickly?
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  #40  
Old 06-08-2005, 09:01 PM
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I would suggest getting a volt meter hooked to a cigarette lighter adapter so that you can monitor the voltage as you drive. Should be around 13.5V with the engine running. If the voltage is good, try disconnecting the battery each night. If it holds a charge then the problem is likely a voltage drain.

One trick that has worked for me in the past for isolating a battery drain is to remove one fuse at a time in the dark. I was able to locate the offending circuit by seeing a small spark jump the gap at the fuse as I removed it.
Worth a try
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  #41  
Old 06-08-2005, 09:06 PM
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lino,I am no mechanic but what happened to me was the negative terminal of the alternator was loose last winter in minus 20 celsius.It died once.
I tightened that and the car seems okay now.
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  #42  
Old 06-08-2005, 09:59 PM
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I had a weak battery once and the symtoms are exactly like yours. There was a weak/shorted cell and although it puts out the 12+ volts with a voltmeter the weak cell dies very quickly and intermittently, ie. overnight and with the stereo on while you fiddle away or no reason at all. It drops one cell down (2V) to 10+V and you will not be able to start the car. Doing a load test on the battery will show up this problem. When you are bench charging, this cell will show up as the one that doesn't bubble the same with the rest.
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  #43  
Old 06-08-2005, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaMB
I would suggest getting a volt meter hooked to a cigarette lighter adapter so that you can monitor the voltage as you drive. Should be around 13.5V with the engine running. If the voltage is good, try disconnecting the battery each night. If it holds a charge then the problem is likely a voltage drain.

One trick that has worked for me in the past for isolating a battery drain is to remove one fuse at a time in the dark. I was able to locate the offending circuit by seeing a small spark jump the gap at the fuse as I removed it.
Worth a try

Thanks for the advice. My mechanic checked the fuses one by one and couldn't see a problem. I may have to try disconceting the battery at night and see what happens. The car is dead now so I have to charge the battery tomorrow.
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  #44  
Old 06-08-2005, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petaling
lino,I am no mechanic but what happened to me was the negative terminal of the alternator was loose last winter in minus 20 celsius.It died once.
I tightened that and the car seems okay now.
Very good advice. Mine needed to be tightened once before too. Now they are quite tight though.
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  #45  
Old 06-09-2005, 10:09 AM
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Location: New Orleans, LA
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the voltmeter is a good idea, I believe JEGS sells one that plugs into the cig lighter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaMB
I would suggest getting a volt meter hooked to a cigarette lighter adapter so that you can monitor the voltage as you drive. Should be around 13.5V with the engine running. If the voltage is good, try disconnecting the battery each night. If it holds a charge then the problem is likely a voltage drain.

One trick that has worked for me in the past for isolating a battery drain is to remove one fuse at a time in the dark. I was able to locate the offending circuit by seeing a small spark jump the gap at the fuse as I removed it.
Worth a try

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