that such parts are available from the usual sources of mb parts. brian carlton has split them i think. maybe try pm to him

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Good luck with the seals. If you do find them, you might need to check with ATE about the torque specs for the halves. In the manual, it says not to separate the halves because they are torqued unequally at the factory.

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63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

that sounds like you will have to buy the rebuilt calipers. i must be wrong about brian splitting them. now that i think more i believe he must have changed the puck seals and dust shields only.

tom w

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Thank you guys for all the help, I will just order the caliper, now I'm just fighting trying to get the caliper bolts out. lol

Alright guys, I put the new caliper on, I have bled the brakes like crazy, used a quart of brake fluid, and not only can I not get the brake light to go off, but the brakes are extremly spongy and weak! I have cracked open and bled every line I can find including the ones coming from the resevior and the master cylinder. What is the deal, has any one else had this much trouble over a caliper? Any help would be much appreciated!!

Sounds like a bad master cyl. or you could still have alot of air in the system.

Try gravity bleeding the whol system. crack all four bleeder screws and let gravity do the work. make sure you keep an eye on the fluid level.

The brake light comes on when the fluid level is low in the master cyl.

If your master cyl was weak, bleeding the brakes may have wiped it out. I would pull the master cyl and check if it is leaking into the booster.

Good luck

there... i am thinking you are not bleeding the brakes correctly. here is how. make sure the mc res is full. go to the pass rear and start bleeding there. this is a two man job or person. have the person in the car pump the brakes til the pedal feels hard and hold the pedal down. you open the bleeder and allow it to flow fluid out till it stops bubbling or til the pedal reaches the floor. hold it down and close the bleeder. pump it up again til it gets hard. repeat til you get no bubbles at that caliper and move to the driv rear and repeat. then pass front and then drivers front. put a tube on the bleeder and run the old fluid into a jar. now if you do all this and still have a problem, you need to look at the mc. i am betting this will cure the prob.

others advocate using a mitivac, but personally i have never been able to get those to work for brakes.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.