OH MY GOD! I'm wearing myself out beating the ***** out of this bolt. It's the one that sits at the top of the upper CA. It seems that the bolt is seized inside of the metal guide (covered by the bushings). Can anyone PLEASE give me some ideas as to how to approach getting this bolt out?

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1989 300E 144K

PB Blaster.

Get some, shoot it in there and let it sit. Then shoot some more in. A couple good hammer licks should free the bolt.

I swear by the stuff, working on a urine rusted shackle bolt on my horse trailer I found the bolt to be seized in the spring eye. No amount of beating would budge it. After a full day of wailing on it I tried the PB Blaster. Shot the bolt, let it sit while I talked to the horses, shot it again and three hits later the bolt was free. Good stuff, it actually migrates along the bolt working to free the rust bond.

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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

I've tried this for the past few hours with no results, and I've already spent a small fortune on sawzall blades. Man, that is some hard *****! Anyone else have any suggestions?

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1989 300E 144K

Trying to get the bolts out of the upper control arms. Both side frozen in. Not a heck of a lot of space for heavy hammering. Soaked them both good with blaster and got a bigger hammer this AM. Still immovable. Passenger side turns now, driver side very difficult to turn at all. Looks like a bad place for sawzall, but it has possibilities. In the DIY section covering this job the writer had the same problem. He said I had a horrible problem getting one off as the bushing was seized to the bolt, however this is probably one in a thousand cases. On the other side the bolt came out by the push of a finger. I ended up cutting off both sides of the bolt on the bad side, then cutting the bolt out of the upper control arm. I wish I could figure out how he cut the bolt out of the upper control arm.
So, any other suggestions beside beat it and beat it and beat it. It absolutely positively must come out!

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

This was definetly not a job for the faint of heart. First I couldn't get the bolts out, but resolved that with a torch. I did burn some of the undercoat out and actually had a fire going on the plastic inner fender, which I will replace next summer when I replace the front fenders. But I only used a torch as a last resort, nothing else would move them out. I did spray in a new "under coat" and it seems like real tough stuff. Kept old wet towels on the top side and that paint all seems to be OK. I did have a bit of difficulty in getting new bolts back into the holes. The bolts I got were about an inch longer and after messing around with getting them into the hole and all the way through, I ground a nice taper on them, made sure the thread still started well and they went right in. I also found that it helped to leave the stabilizer sitting in its hole (in the arm) with just the inside bushing on, until I got both main bolts in. Thanks again to all those that sent me suggestions.

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!