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  #1  
Old 03-05-2006, 04:29 PM
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'02 C230 Kompressor - Issues

Hey everyone!! I hope you all are doing well... I took my car to Mercedes the other day because I get this loud, deep groan when my car is coming to a stop and I am slowly applying my brakes. I starts out quiet, then gets louder and louder until I come to a stop. Sometimes it happens as I am turning the wheel, but it is the worst if I am turning and braking. It doesn't happen all the time. So anyway, back to the point, Mercedes drove the car for 10 minutes, didn't hear it and decided nothing was wrong with it. So after my service advisor got an earful, I told him not to touch my car for the other repairs. So what could be the cause of this noise? And how easily can it be fixed?

Same visit, I was told I need to replace my brakes and rotors for the small fee of my pinky finger. I didn't get any warning on my little computer thingy, so what's the deal with that? Is it normal to have to replace your rotors? I have been told no, but those people didn't have mercedes'.

Now... a while back I posted something about mercedes not changing my oil and saying they did. Well... I was in Houston a few weeks back, and my car was telling me I need to add oil. I don't believe this is normal for me to have to add oil between intervals, so this may prove my point about them not changing my oil and saying they did, right? I had to add 2 quarts!

Also, I need to buy a new cupholder and a new shift gate cover (I think that's what it's called). Anyone know where I can find these things?

Agh... my cars broken all over the place!! Thanks in advance for your help, ya'll!

Nesreen

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  #2  
Old 03-05-2006, 05:53 PM
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It's normal to replace the discs on a Mercedes and never turn them. They're cheap (usually about $60 each, or so) and so it's not really worth trying to extend the life of them by removing material.

A typical top-out cost of front brakes would be about $80-100 for the pad set, $120 for the two front discs, and $250 for bits (pad sensors, etc) and labour, setting a total bill of about $450 or so. This is comparable to most cars I've owned. The advantage that I've seen with my own MB's is the ability for a DIY to perform the job at home without any special tools.
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Old 03-05-2006, 07:44 PM
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My 02 C32 AMG has worn three sets of front rotors and pads, within 36,000 miles. They made the same noise as you described. Changed twice by MB under warranty, I just changed them last week for the third time. The front brakes (pads and rotors) stops the car, they do most of the work. Yes itís normal for them to wear, often if you drive your car hard.
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Old 03-06-2006, 08:45 AM
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Adding a quart or two of oil in betweek 10K Mile oil changes is no big deal. I have to add a quart at about 8K into the change. Most manufacturers state that 1 quart every 1000 miles burnt is well within engine limits and tolerances. So two quarts in 10,000 is one every 5,000 so that is very good. No engine can run without burning some small amount of oil.

As for the brakes. Well it all depends on mileage and useage. The Brakes on my W203 Coupe have just started squealing after 45,000 miles. I think that is friggin great since I did not think they would last 30,000. Ours is a 6 speed though and we do downshift some what to slow down. But still use the brakes pretty hard. No biggie to me. I feel no sign of rotor warp so I will just throw new pads on when I get a chance. We have not hit the brake sensor as of yet to throw the red light on the MFD on yet though. It is not uncommon to just put new rotors on. Especially when the customer complains of noises liek groaning. Of course to me that could be a ball joint of sticky caliper. But then again I am not working on the car......
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Old 03-06-2006, 08:46 AM
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I agree on the pads and rotor replacement. But if your car is out of warranty, and you're not a DIYer...it's time for you to find a good independent mechanic in your area. Perhaps you can find one in the Good Shops forum (the link button is at the top of the page).

BTW: The Mercedes dealer in San Antonio has a very good service department. Not cheap, not a ripoff either...but good.
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Old 03-06-2006, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mctwin2kman
I feel no sign of rotor warp so I will just throw new pads on when I get a chance.
You'd be better off measuring the disc thickness and replacing them if more than half worn.
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Old 03-06-2006, 12:23 PM
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I do not turn or replace a rotor or even measure unless needed. One set of pads better not kill a rotor. If it does then we have more problems with **** MB parts.
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Old 03-06-2006, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mctwin2kman
I do not turn or replace a rotor or even measure unless needed. One set of pads better not kill a rotor. If it does then we have more problems with **** MB parts.
If you're not measuring them, how do you figure out that replacement is needed? On many MB models, it''s not unusual for you to have to replace discs with every set of pads. Our C36 had pretty long wearing brakes for such performance-oriented parts, and the discs were typically worn past 50% when replacing pads, meaning they wouldn't make it to the next pad change. It's ten seconds with a micrometer, so I'm not sure what's gained in not measuring the discs...
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Old 03-06-2006, 04:05 PM
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Nesreen

It would help us make a better judgement, if you would include the mileage of the brakes/car.
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  #10  
Old 03-06-2006, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackmercedes
If you're not measuring them, how do you figure out that replacement is needed? On many MB models, it''s not unusual for you to have to replace discs with every set of pads. Our C36 had pretty long wearing brakes for such performance-oriented parts, and the discs were typically worn past 50% when replacing pads, meaning they wouldn't make it to the next pad change. It's ten seconds with a micrometer, so I'm not sure what's gained in not measuring the discs...
Problem being I do not have a micrometer handy nor do I know the specs for thickness. I have always in the past visually checked them and felt them. Then when I do a second pad replacement I do the rotors. Or if I feel any strange pulsing or lack of brakes. Then again if I worked in a shop I would check them. But I am not about to pay the Stealer to Check my rotors. I doa visual and compare from side to side and check to see and feel how much the rotor has shrunk in the time used. In all honesty I already checked my rotors a week or so ago and they are not worn down too bad honestly. Not much of a lip there. My rears are barely worn......
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  #11  
Old 03-08-2006, 09:33 PM
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You all are so sweet for your feedback.

To answer your question, Manny, I have an '02 C230 Kompressor Coupe with about 62K on it. I bought it last March, with about 42k on it, and this will be the first time I have to change the brakes.

So, it is normal to have to replace my rotors, we have that covered, but is it normal to be charged almost $800? That sounds a bit steep to me. And shouldn't my MDF or MFD (what mctwin2kman called it) come on? Is this something I can do myself or is it difficult? Is there some kind of picture manual on here? I already know I need to learn how to change my own oil... someone told me that in another post. And if I am going to attempt to do these things myself, my brakes won't fall out as I am driving or something, right? LoL.

C32AMG - why do your brakes and rotors wear so quickly?

Finally - can anyone answer the cup holder and plastic shift thingy question?
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  #12  
Old 03-09-2006, 01:58 PM
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I once had a Mercedes mechanic tell me the rotors are made of relatively soft steel. I guess it improves braking ability...at the cost of rotor life.

Click on the "Buy Parts" link at the top of this page. Phil will have what you need for the brake job. Support the forum!

Cupholder and shift gate thingamabob are dealer items, I'm afraid.

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