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#1
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have a new transmission pan put on the car (and seal)...now the car is leaking transmission fluid bad..how far do you tourque the bolts on that thing?
1982 380 SEC benzat |
#2
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get the book/CD and
torque them to what it says or wait for someone to give you the numbers. Torque them to those numbers. It does not take too much to "over-torque" them. Seems that it tears up the gasket which results in the severe leakage.
Jim '85 300D '95 E320 '97 CRV |
#3
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Should be somewhere in the area of .8 MKP or approximately 5.75 foot pounds. I also noticed on my tranny pan that there were three short bolts and one long bolt, all with "wings" to spread the pressure. I determined the long bolt went in the right front corner.
The prior owner or his tech had the bolts in the wrong holes and rather than move the one that didn't fit in all the way, he simply angled the wing so it caught across the pan lips. This caused a pinched seal and subsequent leak. I have had my pan off twice now and have had no leaks from the pan seal since getting everything where it belonged.
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum. |
#4
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5-6lbs and I have the same problem now with a new pan and gasket. I have changed the gasket about 4x. However, I used a torque wrench and have dropped the pan about 10 times now. I have 6 bolts all the same and have used various methods like washers and cannot seem to make the minor leak stop. It is happening on the passenger side in between bolts. I also noticed it mostly happens overnight when the tran fluid flows back down to the pan. When, I check fluid level. It is over the fluid line way past the max. line but, when I warm up the car and drive it It goes down and and is at the min. level. I checked some of the vacuum lines to see what is causing all this. The primary pump O-ring was changed also. So, the leak isn't above the trans pan. It is definitely coming from the pan and stops leaking for a day if, I put a new pan gasket in but, the leak comes back after that. Still cannot figure it out after more than a month. Can anyone suggest anything please?
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#5
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Quote:
Have you noticed that the new seal doesn't exactly seem to fit? I did, and to beat it I lay the new seal in the sun for a little bit to warm it up. Then I kinda massage the seal, stretching it slightly till it fits the pan. Now you have to work fast, before the seal returns to it's packaged size, get the pan in place and hold it there with one hand pressing up with constant pressure. Now with the free hand put in all the bolts as far as you can turn them. Snug them evenly and torque. I don't know if your pan is supposed to have the "wings" or not. Hopefully someone else here knows.
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum. |
#6
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Yes, I know what you are talking about. It may have been an issue before but, this time with the new pan. I don't have that problem with the new gasket. The parts guy put the gasket on before I go it and it fit just right. I even let him examine it and he said he couldn't see anything wrong with the new pan and gasket. He works on his own 560SEL and have known him for about a decade. So, I know that he knows what he is talking about when, it comes to parts. I have tried using washers b/c, of your post though the bolts already have washers on them. I use a bigger one on for the two bolts on either side of the middle of pan and one at the corner. In other words, I used bigger washers on 3 bolts not, just two. Two on where the bolts where the leak is and one on the other side of the pan. I will take off the wahser on the other side since, I have no problem over there. I did this reading, your post. It should have the same effect as your wing-nut theory I would figure.
Thanx |
#7
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all the bolts and washers are the same size..the seal sat on the new pan about a week before putting it on the car...and tightend according to the CD of 8NM and still it wants to leak..going to take it in to the mechanic tomorrow and see if they can get it on better
thanks benzat 1982 380 SEC |
#8
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Probably need a new gasket in your case from, overtightening initially.
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#9
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Well, let me tell you about my misadventure with a leaky transmission. I decided to change the fluid and filter myself. I got everything back together and went to fill it up. After 6.5 quarts (holds about 9), I get a leak. It is pouring out. I dropped the pan 3 times before I gave up and called the mechanic to tow it. They called me up to tell me it was ready and ask me if by chance I had drained the torque converter. "Drain it???" That was when he informed me that it held about 3 or so quarts of fluid. Seems my 6.5 was actually overfilling the transmission. I had a good seal on the pan the first time I put it back up. I was just overfilling the thing.
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#10
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I hear you but, I check the fluid after driving about 20+miles. It is at the full and even when it is at minimum or below. I did this to make sure. I think if, I let it go. It will eventually just ruin my transmission which, I can't afford to lose right now.
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#11
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took the car in today it wasnt the transmission pan it was the shifter selector plug...ordered the part today going to have that fixed
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