Wayne: I haven't had a fusebox apart on one of these lately. One thing to note is all of your "false" readings are outputs. You won't have any outputs without the relay in place, so I believe you need to get the larger of the 2 connectors out of the fusebox and plug it in, then test the outputs with the appropriate actions taken on the left and right directional and the hazard switch from the bottom of the connector. I'd say it's a safe bet that if the inputs, powers and ground are there that your looking at the combo relay as the fault, as it sure seems like you won't find any power at these 3 outputs from the relay. As far as why your wipers work with the combo relay removed, that stumps me. You have the relay completly "it's in my hand" removed? I am just stating what is says in the ETM. They have the function of the combo relay broken down into several diagrams, I just copied the one for turn/hazard lights. I should look and see if there is some fail-safe for the wiper motor that enables it to work in the event of a defective combo relay, kinda like the center stoplight working direct from the brakelight switch in case the lamp monitor module takes a dump. I'm curious, if the wipers work with the combo relay completely pulled, do the wiper function normally, that is, intermittent, slow speed, high speed, all work? I'm thinking it's possible the wipers are on the smaller connector to the combo relay....Gilly

Gilly,

I did have the relay plugged in when testing the outputs. So I guess I will go for the new relay. The wiper did appear to work normally when the relay was "in hand". Interesting...

ps: what are your thoughts on the head gasket question?

Quote "-off topic: I'm considering digging in and replacing the head gasket on this M104. It has the typical leaks on the passangers side front and rear, but no oil in the coolant... yet. I have an MB book on order which details the M104 engine and that I will use for direction. Have you done one of these before (probably many), and if so what is your take on the complexities of the job for an experienced DIY'r? "


Thanks,

__________________
-Wayne

1994 E320 Coupe (120k)
1990 300SL (BBS,RENNtech adds)
1988 260E Sedan (180k)

Wayne: I think you could probably handle a 104 headgasket. Wait till you get the book. The special tools involved-well, I can't really think of anything really. A cherry picker will help (oh, that's area slang for a engine hoist) that damn head is heavy. I don't think yu need to worry about oil/coolant mixing on a 104, that's mostly 102 and 103 problem. With the 104, it's just external leakage. I didn't get a chance to look at the wiper wiring today. We got a new guy who is working out good, but we're getting into the spring rush, so we still can't hardly keep up. Got a sweet job to do tomorrow night (time and a half after hours pay), a PDI (pre-delivery inspection) on a new CLK convertible in Black. Not sure if it's a 320 or 430, you can guess what I'm hoping for!.........Gilly Gravy Hound

Hey Gilly, if it's a 430 you gotta let me know how she is.

I replaced the relay module and that did the trick! Turn signals and hazards work fine... so that means we're two for two - not bad!

I also replaced the front flex disk. It had deteriorated probably due to a long term oil leak. Gonna' bring her out tomorrow. It's supposed to be awesome weather in NE with temerature in the 90's. It should be sweet!

I look forward to starting on the head. I have a 9,000lb hydraulic vehicle lift with a jib crane in my shop. Just finished installing it this winter. Should work well for the head. The engine has 95k on it. Do you think I should do guides and seals?

Thanks again,

__________________
-Wayne

1994 E320 Coupe (120k)
1990 300SL (BBS,RENNtech adds)
1988 260E Sedan (180k)

Seals yes, guides no. I have no experience doing the seals with the head off, though, only head installed. Shouldn't be too bad, plus no worrying about "gulping" a valve. Guides will last a heck of a lot longer than 95K, but you can see if they seem exceptionally loose when you do the seals. Getting into nice weather, you sure you want to take it down now? Whatever happened with the hardtop/soft top problem, that fix itself?
Gilly

I do need to take it down. The oil leak got significantly worse after winter storage. The top started working on its own prior to the instrument cluster repar. What' interesting with the top is that the passangers side window does not go down automatically at the beginning of the sequence, but the top drops with now problem. At the end of the sequence both windows power back up fine. I thought that the top would not go down unles the window tripped the down microswitch. I will pull the door panel soon and check it out. The only other thing I have to fix is the power antenna. I will do some basic checking on that.

__________________
-Wayne

1994 E320 Coupe (120k)
1990 300SL (BBS,RENNtech adds)
1988 260E Sedan (180k)

My problem is that the turn signals and hazard lights go on but don't blink.
Is the solution similar to this one?