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  #1  
Old 05-22-2001, 12:23 AM
Johnson Chan
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I wish my luck will get better. I just got my car back from intensive care today, after a compression test, #4 doesnt have any compression, 4.5 compared to the rest (9.5-10.0). Dealer quoted me $8500.00 for repairs.

This is on the 1992 300D 2.5 with 290,000 miles.

So ladies and gentleman, anyway to "rig" this car so I can get to 312,500 miles? I have been waiting for a long time to get the 500,000 KM high milage badge and I am soo close..

I am open for any and all suggests, dont be shy... And if you think that ALL MB diesels go a million miles on an original engine, come to St. Louis and buy mine, lol.

BTW, I always drive this car out of state, I go to Toronto, Canada a few times a year, chicago, FL, and planned on taking this car to Las Vegas for my upcoming 21st birthday, will it be safe to go long distance with one cylinder broke?

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  #2  
Old 05-22-2001, 01:49 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 378
Sorry to hear about your problems. I talked to a mechanic today regarding a 300E job. He quoted about $4000 to rebuild the head, rebore the block and put in new pistons, rings and bearings. I may not need it, but that is my worst case. Your diesel is more expensive, but I would say find an independent shop that has more options than the dealer. I talked to a dealer too who gave me the line you got. When I asked about used engines, he said that I could do that, but that they don't.

Check out car-part.com for a used assembly. I see a couple of listings for your car at about $3000, but I'm not sure if they are diesel. Check for yourself and good luck.
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  #3  
Old 05-22-2001, 02:42 AM
Johnson Chan
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Vrsmith,

Thanks for the reply, I will check them out. I just cant really justify spending almost $10,000.00 ($8500.00 + extra "stuff")on this car. I dont really plan on keeping this car forever.

Since I am on summer break, this would be the best time to tackle this project if I do decide to fix it or do it myself. I dont have the tools, space, or skills to do a full engine rebuilt though, I guess i can learn, lol.

But I would like a way to "rigg" it cheaply first. Does anybody know about those oil additives that restore compression that can be found in auto parts stores "like slick 50, duralube, etc."? How about using extra thick motor oil?
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  #4  
Old 05-22-2001, 03:32 AM
Joe Mc
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Did the dealer tell you why your engine has low compression? That compression has to be going some where. Valves too tight, burnt exhaust valve, piston rings worn and compression going in oil pan and maybe a blown head gasket. With just 45lb of pressure in one cylinder, I'd bet you have a bad exhaust valve and compression is going out tailpipe.
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  #5  
Old 05-23-2001, 06:39 PM
Johnson Chan
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Hello everyone,

I have posted this before but it got lost, so I will repost it.

In addition to a new engine, they say it needs,

Front Exhaust pipe $350.00
Exhaust Resonator $375.00

There IS an exhaust leak in the engine compartment. It is around the exhaust manifold #4 or #5, so I dont know if an exhaust manifold leak would cause this. Can someone verify that?

I would think all the cylinders wear at the same rate, but for one to be so much lower than the rest, something is wrong. They did not give me a specific reason as to where it was leaking.

I am going to get some second opinions. Since the car doesnt use oil, doesnt overheat, drives ok, I dont think im going to spend ten grand because of a little smoke and leak.
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  #6  
Old 05-23-2001, 07:19 PM
MikeTangas's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: So. Cal
Posts: 4,430
I had a nice response, but...

oh well these things happen. I'll try to rewrite.

The exhaust pipe and exhaust leak will not cause low compression (the answer to your original question yesterday). The leak, however, may be the result of a blown head gasket. Your leak is in the area of #4, #4 is the cylinder with low compression, and is the gasket is blown bad enough you could be losing compression to the outside of the engine (the leak).

Are there any other signs of a blown head gasket, oil in the water or vice versa? If it is just the head gasket, the head will have to come off, might as well have the valves done while you're in there.

Definitely not a 8.5K job. Find a good independent in your area.
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  #7  
Old 05-23-2001, 07:24 PM
Johnson Chan
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Hello Mike,

There is no oil in the coolant or vice versa. Both tends to hold up. I thought if you have a bad head gasket that you will get oil and coolant mixes? I guess thats not always the case?
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  #8  
Old 05-23-2001, 07:31 PM
MikeTangas's Avatar
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Usually you do get some sort of mix.

I'm not sure what the MB head gaskets look like though. I know the Detroit Diesels I used to work on had multiple seals rather than one piece. They had black o-rings for oil passages, red for water passages, steel rings on top of the liners and one big old o-ring around the perimeter of the head. Depending on the path of least resistance, the leak could vent to atmosphere without corrupting the oil or water passages, but with a single piece gasket that seems less likely.

My money is still on a head gasket and valves.
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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
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  #9  
Old 05-23-2001, 11:17 PM
CJ CJ is offline
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I would get a second opinion by an independent MBZ tech.
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  #10  
Old 05-24-2001, 03:08 AM
Joe Mc
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Last nights post

Hi Johnson, did you see my last nights post concerning your car? I looked for it and couldn't find it. Anyway, I believe you have a burnt exhaust valve or it's too tight allowing compression to go out the exhaust. This would account the engine running and not spewing out oil or antifreeze or cross mixing fluids.
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  #11  
Old 05-26-2001, 04:24 AM
Johnson Chan
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Hello Joe,

I did get a chance to read it, I am glad you reposed it, thank you.

I called the dealer and left a message to see if they can tell me where the leak is coming from, but they never called me back.

So when I take it to an independant, they will have to run a compression test again.

If that is the case, will a valve job and new head gasket solve my problem?
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  #12  
Old 05-26-2001, 05:49 AM
Joe Mc
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yes it should. I'd see about adjusting the valves first. I once had a car that acted like a burnt valve but needed the valves adjusted. Even after adjustment it ran as if the valve was burnt. I took the head off. The valve was not burnt. Carbon built up on valve so much from being out of adjustment for so long that it was holding the valve open even after adjustment. If I'd known this, I'd just run it. It'd save me all that trouble. On a head gasket, the compression ring could fail or the material around the water or oil passages could fail and the compression ring be ok. This type of failure is usually caused by old age and heat. If you ever get a chance to look at a bad head gasket, not necesarily a blown head gasket, they'll tell you what happened. I've had head gaskets loose their compression ring and blow that compression to the outside of block. These you can spot because you will hear the choo~choo whistling type sound as compression is escaping. I've found that using too much starting fluid will cause this. Too much starting fluid causes the head bolts to stretch, next thing you know, head gasket is leaking.
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  #13  
Old 05-26-2001, 05:56 AM
Johnson Chan
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Hello Joe,

Thanks for the quick reply.

So theoretically, what will happen if I keep driving the car? Since it does run and doesnt use oil, coolant, overheat, etc. I really dont want to mess with it.

Will the head gasket "blow" on me while driving or will it cause engine damage? I want to drive this car to Las Vegas and to Canada this summer but kind of afraid to now that I know a cylinder isnt working.
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  #14  
Old 05-26-2001, 06:50 AM
Joe Mc
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bad luck

If it is a burnt valve it isn't going to get better. Performance and fuel mileage will suffer. After all, you are running on one less cylinder. Burnt valve or a bad head gasket are not related. Two complete separate issues. Once the head is removed to repair the valves, a new head gasket must be used. Only good for one time crush. On a side note, how did you know that the b2 piston in trans is bad on my old Mercedes. I've ordered a manuel but have not received it.
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  #15  
Old 05-26-2001, 09:04 AM
Johnson Chan
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Hello Joe,

I know about the B2 piston from:

1) talking to mb techs about a bad tranny in my benz.

2) if you go to:

http://www.mbca.org/MBCA_parts_wear_out.htm

Scroll down to transmissions and read.

Also Steve also agrees with me, so were pretty sure thats whats wrong with it.


One of the members that posted before the posts got erased mentioned it MIGHT be a bad head gasket, so I didnt know if it would be a good idea to drive this car across the country and have it go out on me in Canada. It would really piss me off to have a broken down car a thousand miles away from home.

The power and fuel milage seems pretty good, I get around 28-30 miles per gallon currently.
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