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  #1  
Old 05-30-2001, 12:31 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 217
Hello,


How hard is it to remove the steering wheel from an 1989 300E?? How does one start by taking the steering wheel off?? Do I need any special tools to remove the wheel?? I would appreciate if someone can give me some detailed steps on how to remove the wheel. Im anxious to get the new wheel on. Also, any other things I should check/replace while the wheel is off?? I'm curious on how the airbag comes off--do I just shove a screwdriver underneath the airbag and pry away?? This looks so complicated--i'm lost.
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Agron
1989 300E ("E 300"-Badged)
Monotoned Astral Silver w/ rear lid deck panel
97 Style Replica E420 Rims 205/55/16
Euro Headlights
Clear Corners
94/95 Taillights
Black Grille Insert
Chrome Exhaust Tips
20% Tint
Pioneer Sound system w/ Sub-enclosure and CD-changer
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  #2  
Old 05-30-2001, 01:23 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2000
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I don't know how to remove it, but I wouldn't be shoving any screwdrivrs into or around the airbag.
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91 300E 120K
90 300SE 275K (sold)
92 BMW 525iM 120K
90 BMW 525iA 175K
85 300D 175K (sold)
84 300SD 245K (sold)
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  #3  
Old 05-30-2001, 08:56 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 75
I did this once upon a time. Hopefully I didn't forget anything. It's relatively easy provided you have the right tools. You need to remove the two allen nuts on the back of the steering wheel, that will free up the air bag. Disconnect the connectors, remove the large nut securing the steering wheel to the steering column, voila!
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  #4  
Old 05-30-2001, 05:58 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 217
ohhhh.....

I now see 2 allen srews sitting behind the steering wheel. I'm going downstairs to attempt to take this sucker off. If I encounter any problems I will post again. Thanks man...
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Agron
1989 300E ("E 300"-Badged)
Monotoned Astral Silver w/ rear lid deck panel
97 Style Replica E420 Rims 205/55/16
Euro Headlights
Clear Corners
94/95 Taillights
Black Grille Insert
Chrome Exhaust Tips
20% Tint
Pioneer Sound system w/ Sub-enclosure and CD-changer
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  #5  
Old 05-30-2001, 08:05 PM
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Jax, FL
Posts: 1,785
I hope I am not too late! Disconnect the battery!!!!! Also disconnect the air bag connections from under the carpet in the front passenger foot rest BEFORE you work on the steering wheel. Then just follow the above directions.
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'86 300E
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  #6  
Old 05-30-2001, 08:31 PM
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Too Late....

J Hidalgo:

I just removed the airbag without doing what you mentioned. The 2 allen screws came off and the airbag came off easily--I hope I didnt mess anything up by not doing what you said. Anyways, the problem now is that I cannot get the main metric nut off--it just wont budge. I tried spraying WD-40 around the nut, but it just wont move at all. So as of now, the airbag is off, but the wheel is still on. Where do I go from here???....
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Agron
1989 300E ("E 300"-Badged)
Monotoned Astral Silver w/ rear lid deck panel
97 Style Replica E420 Rims 205/55/16
Euro Headlights
Clear Corners
94/95 Taillights
Black Grille Insert
Chrome Exhaust Tips
20% Tint
Pioneer Sound system w/ Sub-enclosure and CD-changer
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-30-2001, 08:48 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Accokeek, MD
Posts: 683
I hope you unpluged the air bag from the cable running to it. It should be connected by a two pin connector. It pulls straight up and off.

Next remove the center bolt. It requires a 10 mm hex socket, if I remember correctly. You will need a 1/2" breaker bar, an extension bar and the 10mm hex socket. Turn the nut counter clockwise while you have someone else hold the steering wheel.

Once the nut is off... align the steering wheel for straight ahead and square with the instrument panel. Then remove the wheel by pulling it back toward you.

Replace with new wheel making sure new wheel too is square with the instrument panel. Do not inadvertantly turn the steering column while aligning new wheel.

Reconnect wires and back screws hoding the air bag.

Smiles.
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1993 190E 2.3
2000 Toyota 4x4 Tundra
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  #8  
Old 05-30-2001, 09:01 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 217
ejsharp,

Yes, the 2-pin connecter has been removed. You are correct about the 10mm hex socket, 1/2 breaker bar and extension bar, but this nut will not budge. I am attempting to remove the nut while the wheel being in the "locked" position, meaning its straight ahead with the key out of the ignition. Is this what I'm doing wrong, or should I start the car so the wheel can move freely while attempting to remove the nut?? I'm very eager to get this thing off--seems pretty easy.....
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Agron
1989 300E ("E 300"-Badged)
Monotoned Astral Silver w/ rear lid deck panel
97 Style Replica E420 Rims 205/55/16
Euro Headlights
Clear Corners
94/95 Taillights
Black Grille Insert
Chrome Exhaust Tips
20% Tint
Pioneer Sound system w/ Sub-enclosure and CD-changer
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-30-2001, 09:05 PM
J.HIDALGO's Avatar
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Location: Jax, FL
Posts: 1,785
I would still at least disconnect the battery. Follow the instructions from ejsharp but I would suggest to align the steering wheel straigh ahead and square with the instrument panel, then mark the position of the steering wheel with paint or a marker BEFORE you remove the nut. The bag should be stored with the front of it facing up. Use locktide once you are done...
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'86 300E
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  #10  
Old 05-30-2001, 09:16 PM
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Posts: 217
OK, I'm heading back downstairs to tackle this on again and I will follow your advice. Wish me luck, and thank you fellahs...
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Agron
1989 300E ("E 300"-Badged)
Monotoned Astral Silver w/ rear lid deck panel
97 Style Replica E420 Rims 205/55/16
Euro Headlights
Clear Corners
94/95 Taillights
Black Grille Insert
Chrome Exhaust Tips
20% Tint
Pioneer Sound system w/ Sub-enclosure and CD-changer
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 05-30-2001, 09:28 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Accokeek, MD
Posts: 683
Are you sure you are using a breaker bar... or are you using a rachet?

You need a long breaker bar to break the nut loose. I would turn the ingnition key so that the wheel moves freely so that you do not break the locking mechanism of the steering wheel. Turn the wheel all the way to the left so that it can go no farther rather than take a chance on breaking the locking pin.

Then break the nut loose using the bar and realign the wheel to straight/square and pull it off.

[Edited by ejsharp on 05-30-2001 at 09:48 PM]
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1993 190E 2.3
2000 Toyota 4x4 Tundra
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  #12  
Old 05-30-2001, 10:08 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 217
Ohhhh ok....I feel like an idiot.


All this time I've been using a ratchet, not a "breaker bar". I kept thinking to myself, "Arnold Schwarznegger musta tightened this nut on". I mean, I'm a pretty strong guy, but nothing gave. Anyways, first thing in the morning I'll be heading over to Autozone/PepBoys to pick up the "breaker bar". I want to thank you guys for all your helpful advice. I dont think I should have a problem anymore--atleast I hope I wont. I will post again when finished. Again, much appreciated.

Regards,
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Agron
1989 300E ("E 300"-Badged)
Monotoned Astral Silver w/ rear lid deck panel
97 Style Replica E420 Rims 205/55/16
Euro Headlights
Clear Corners
94/95 Taillights
Black Grille Insert
Chrome Exhaust Tips
20% Tint
Pioneer Sound system w/ Sub-enclosure and CD-changer
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 05-31-2001, 01:50 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Sherman Oaks, CA
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Hey Agron,

Which steering wheel did you get? justa new one like your existing one, or one sans airbag, or a newer style wheel with the airbag and all?

I'm interested to find out how this wen, I'm filing the thread so I can come back to it when I decide to swap out my wheel.

Alon
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2004 C240 - C7 Wheels - Android Radio
2015 ML350 - P1, Pano, Ash poplar wood, Sport Dinamica interior, Running Boards Keyless go.
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  #14  
Old 05-31-2001, 07:29 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 217
OK!!, everything is done...

Stopped by my local independant tech this afternoon, and he let me borrow the breaker bar. I did it myself in front of the shop due to him being a busy tech (free of charge). My tech is a cool guy and he lets me borrow tools and stuff. Anyways, the breaker bar did it. That sucker popped right off. I followed everyones instructions on alligning the wheel, connecting connections, etc, and it came out perfect. I did apply locktite to the nut when reinstalling, so everything feels nice and tight without any vibrations. I cant tell you what it means to have brand new leather underneath your hands instead of that cheap rubber MB used, although my previous wheel had a leather wrap on it. This was fairly an easy job only if you have the right tools.


Ashman,

I bought the stock LEATHER steering wheel which currently uses the existing airbag. This is the steering wheel that came from 1986 up until 1991, which I believe was only available in leather for the CE's. In 1992 they changed the style, which is the airbag you have in your car. I was thinking about getting the post 92 steering wheel and airbag, but it was very expensive. I actually found a place in CA which sells the post 92 steering wheel for $125 used, but that wasnt the problem. The main problem was getting the airbag, which they were asking $400 for. Everywhere I looked the post 92 airbag was going for over $400--so i figured it wasnt worth it. I waited and waited for a couple of weeks on e-bay to see if an airbag would pop up for cheap--but no luck. One day browsing e-bay, I found a guy on e-bay auctioning off leather wrapped steering wheels for the w124. I won the auction, and the wheel came out to $86+$10 S/H. So for $96, having a new leather wrapped steering is not bad at all, considering places like performance products selling you leather wraps for about $45. I believe this guy still has pre-92 leather wrapped steering wheels available for the w124. He goes by the name of l.a brooks and he mostly sells MB parts. I was also thinking about getting a wood/leather wheel, but the prices are ridiculous, so I scratched that out. Basically, all this surfing and searching I've been doing for the past couple of months has finally paid off--im' totally satisfied. I want to thank everyone again for helping me with this and appreciated all your comments/tips. If it wasnt for this site I'd be a much poorer man....

Regards,
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Agron
1989 300E ("E 300"-Badged)
Monotoned Astral Silver w/ rear lid deck panel
97 Style Replica E420 Rims 205/55/16
Euro Headlights
Clear Corners
94/95 Taillights
Black Grille Insert
Chrome Exhaust Tips
20% Tint
Pioneer Sound system w/ Sub-enclosure and CD-changer
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 05-31-2001, 07:59 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Sherman Oaks, CA
Posts: 4,748
Agron, Very cool.

I was thinking of getting a wood/leather wheel for my car too, and I actually found one for way cheap, but lost out n the auction because it just plain disappeared. The auction was there one day,. and gone the next.

I think I might try ot find a wheel from an S class or so because it should I think be the same as my car.

I am dying to grab a new wheel, mine is quite worn, either that, or I'm having my friend who knows an interior guy, get the interior guy to rewrap the wheel so it looks like new.

Can anyone confirm that an Sclass wheel form a 92+ S class will work on my car? or a wheel from an ML class? I have seen many for sale on E-bay and in local classifieds.

Alon
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2004 C240 - C7 Wheels - Android Radio
2015 ML350 - P1, Pano, Ash poplar wood, Sport Dinamica interior, Running Boards Keyless go.
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