Diagnostic codes 300E

91 300E has check engine light on. Going to the diagnostic box net to the battery, it sends out 13 or 14 pings (I do not remember), disconnected the battery, light goes away, comes back after a day. Does anyone out there has a description list of what these red LED ping count mean? Thanks.

[JimF]

Check my page (red house) and Menu #5 for Diag Module codes.

13 = Camshaft position sensor signal of ignition control module (N1/3) defective

14 = Intake manifold pressure at start in N1/3 too low/high

Also the ignition control module could be 'bad'; ie give a bad 'false' code.

Thanks for the info. The car has a problem that may be related to the ignition module?, sometimes it just stops running, and starts right up, very hard to find what is wrong with it. Sometimes once a month, sometimes once in 2 months, sometimes twice in a day????? 91 300E 170K. Nice cars.

[JimF]

It appears to be pointing to the ICM module. So if you can swap a known good one out, that should answer the question.

A new one is $1113 list but you can get one used one for anywhere from $200 to $600. However, you take a chance that it may be bad!

[David C Klasse]

Wait a minute... Now what makes "us" so sure that the problem is the ICM module? Just because the check engine light is on and the car stalls every now and then? I don't think so! I would try simpler possible solutions first. For example, has your OVP been replaced?
Good luck!

[Arthur Dalton]

Originally posted by JimF
Check my page (red house) and Menu #5 for Diag Module codes.

13 = Camshaft position sensor signal of ignition control module (N1/3) defective

14 = Intake manifold pressure at start in N1/3 too low/high

Also the ignition control module could be 'bad'; ie give a bad 'false' code.

Those are LH-SFI codes.
I believe 2.6/3.0 codes are:
13-INTAKE AIR TEMP SIG
14- ROAD SPEED SIG.

Are we talking CIS ?

[Shooter]

This depends on if it's a california emissions car and which number hole that you are plugged into.

[JimF]

Those are DM codes but for 119.xx motor!

The CFI system codes for '91 300E are:
13 = Intake Air Temp sensor (B17/2) bad/open
14 = Vehicle speed signal as read by CFI control module (N3) is faulty.

There was nothing "plugged-in". These codes were read from LED/SW combo.

[Edited by JimF on 06-02-2001 at 02:49 PM]

[Mike Murrell]

I know zip about codes, but I'll throw in my 2 cents anyway.

Arthur Dalton mentions that one code points to the -> air intake temp. sensor.

In a previous post(month or so ago), someone with a similar configuration(2.6/3.0-M103 I believe) had a check engine light that was brought on when they started the car with the air intake temp sensor unplugged. I believe this person was changing out an air filter and for whatever reason, started the car with air intake items removed. His vehicle threw a code that indicated this.

Thanks again for all the help. So here is what I understand for a California 91 300E (3.0 liters)
Mr. Klasse, thanks for the OVP tip, can you please elaborate on the OVP? what is it? its function?
The codes are:
13- air temp sensor
14- vehicle speed signal as read by CFI/n3 is faulty.
Additional info on unpredictable turn-offs is that for the most part they occur at slow speeds and while turning, ie: after a red light, into a driveway, etc. No warning at all. Al this might have followed after the most weird thing happenned to this car: I stopped a little harder than usual and the engine started to miss like a threw a rod or something, it limped for two miles missing so bad I thought I would break a piston. After two miles, I shut car down. Fifteen minutes (or so)later I started the car and had no problems like that at all, except the unpredictable turn-off.....is there a "limp mode" on the unit and I have been driving like that for two years? other ideas?

[David C Klasse]

The OVP is the Overvolt Protection Relay. It protects the system (car's computer, etc.) from getting fried. Many of them were faulty from the start. My car (1995 C280) had the same symptoms as yours... it would stall at stop lights, while turning etc. But my car would also have a tough time starting when the engine was warm. For example, I would drive somewhere, shut engine off, and then try and restart the engine, and it wouldn't start. It would turn, but it wouldn't fire. Well I replaced the OVP and the car has never not started, and has not stalled on me since. Another possible culprit for this type of behavior could be the fuel pump relay, also a common failure.
The overvolt protection relay is under the hood to the rear on the passenger side (I think that's where yours should too, I could be wrong though.). It can have either one or two fuses on top of it, and it should be silver (or red!?). I don't know the part number off hand, but I'm sure someone else can help you out.
Cost for replacement is about $50. I got mine here @ Partsshop.
This is where I would start for your stalling problem, then I'd get to the fuel pump relay, and then if that doesn't work, have it taken in or whatever.

As for your Check Engine light, I would count exactly how many times the LED flashes so that your problem can be narrowed down more!
Good luck!