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Old 06-12-2001, 10:17 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 459
Concerning an '84 300D turbo-diesel:

1) What are the valve specs for this motor and are the valves to be adjusted hot or cold?

2) Are there any tricks for flushing the coolant system? Will most of the old stuff come out just by disconnecting the lower radiator hose?

3) Does anyone know what brand ATF MB recommends? With a drain and fill, how much fluid do I need altogether, and what is the procedure for filling (i.e., once drained, how much do I first put in before I start the car and top up)? Do I have to worry about the little torque converter drainplug comming loose? Should I put a little bit of Threadlocker Blue on it?

4) I just bought the Haynes manual, but it doesn't give any recommended jack points. Is there a central front and rear jack point for these cars?

5) My car has a metal tube right under the air cleaner housing that runs down underneath the turbo. The thing is, it doesn't connect to anything on the aircleaner end! Is this not designed as a drain for accumulated oil from the PCV system? My PCV tube runs directly from the valve cover down to the intake right in front of the turbo, so there really is no way for oil to ever accumulate in the filter housing - so why this pipe? Its bone dry and just dangling there. I can't figure it out. Anyone else out there with an '84 who could describe to me what theirs looks like?

All for now, thanks!

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Old 06-12-2001, 11:22 PM
SW SW is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Houston, TX. USA
Posts: 590
1. 0.01mm for the intake and 0.035mm for the exhoust. I always adjust the valves cold. The specs are in the Haynes manual, I think at the beginning of the regular maintenance chapter under the specifications.

2. You should drain the block as well.

3. I have never done the trans fluid change in an automatic before. Maybe someone will chime in.

5. The bottom of the air cleaner housing should have a nipple that feeds oil through the tube back to the pan.

#3 and 4 are debatable, I usually drive the car on ramps.
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed
'92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold
'83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold
'87 300D Turbodiesel - sold
'82 300D Turbodiesel - sold
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Old 06-12-2001, 11:47 PM
Posts: n/a
I drained my tranny and converter together while I changed my filter. There is an allen head bolt in pan for draining, mid pan bottom passenger side, and there is also one in the front side of the torque converter which can be seen through the window in the front of the tranny when lined up correctly. As for fluid, Dexron III is the fluid of choice as I'm told. The fluid level is tricky on these things, the temp of the tranny really affects how full it seems. I found it best to fill with 6.5 qts. which gets you very close then run till you think it is up to temp and check, add as needed. To really check the fluid level now; I wait for the tranny to cool overnight and check the level while it is cool. The level when cool like this should be 10 mm below the lowest mark on the stick. Checking it cool is a sure fire way to get it right. I hope this helps you out.

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Old 06-13-2001, 06:35 AM
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Soperton, Ga. USA
Posts: 11,246
sounds like someone

modified the pcv system (or it is different than the '85 model anyway). I have considered doing exactly what you describe. There is probably nothing wrong with it other than the fact that it may increase oil consumption slightly, in my opinion. Instead of the oil being returned to the oil pan it is burned in the engine. I would at least plug the line that comes out the bottom of the air cleaner just to insure that there is no way that "dirty" air gets into your engine (air that has not passed through the air filter). Where did they tie the line from the pcv connection into? Is is tied into the "flat" spot on the plastic piece that runs between the air filter and the turbo? To me this looks like the most likely place. Could you take a pic and email it to me?
When you do the torque converter just use a new crush ring and torque to spec and you should be ok. I always check for leaks from this plug after running it awhile and have even tightened it slightly more if I saw seepage. Purchase the Dextron III at WalMart.
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Old 06-13-2001, 10:05 AM
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flushing coolant

Disconnect the lower radiator hose. Also, let the engine run at operating temp for 30 seconds or so to get the last quart out.
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