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  #796  
Old 09-29-2007, 12:03 AM
CamelotShadow's Avatar
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now I don't know
yours would be further back?

nice to compare engine though

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Upgrade 83 Mer 500 SEC from 88 Volvo GLE?-mbicv1.jpg  
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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

Last edited by CamelotShadow; 09-29-2007 at 12:09 AM.
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  #797  
Old 09-29-2007, 12:29 AM
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The pic above is not the ICV as far as I can tell. One end will have a hose and the other should have the elect connector.

One of your photos has what looked like your cold start valve marked, it was not the icv either.

It looks like the photo I attached earlier in this thread and is about 5 inches or so long, maybe 6in
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1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
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  #798  
Old 09-29-2007, 12:45 AM
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oooh
I'll keep looking

Thanks

Cold start valve
well good to know

Gosh I wonder is I have a ICV?
the mb dealer says the only info on my car was the date
5/10/82
so its really a 82?

Thanks

Yuo know it dawned on me
I got about $600 parts today for $350 & w installation would be maybe a $1000 job
I might be able to most of iut for the $350 or least under $500

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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

Last edited by CamelotShadow; 09-29-2007 at 12:56 AM.
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  #799  
Old 09-29-2007, 12:57 AM
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$600 in parts for $350

Saving money for other things and doing some work yourself...

Now I think we have got you drinking the Kool Aid.
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1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red
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  #800  
Old 09-29-2007, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crhenkel View Post
$600 in parts for $350

Saving money for other things and doing some work yourself...

Now I think we have got you drinking the Kool Aid.
I;m not complaining
but I'll pass on the kool aid

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83 500 SEC Euro 198K
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  #801  
Old 09-29-2007, 01:16 AM
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The diagrams on the MB EPC parts online program clearly shows the ICV sitting horizontally not up and down and it shows it inline behind the mouth of the throttle body. It goes distributor, throttle body intake, ICV in a line. I cant save photos from the online program, but you can pull up all the Euro part numbers and diagrams. $3 a month for one month. You would learn alot. I can fax the photo but I cant email it.
The part number for it should be 000 141 14 25 and it is held in place by a metal strap bracket with a rubber insulator wrapped around it.
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1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red
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  #802  
Old 09-29-2007, 01:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crhenkel View Post
The diagrams on the MB EPC parts online program clearly shows the ICV sitting horizontally not up and down and it shows it inline behind the mouth of the throttle body. It goes distributor, throttle body intake, ICV in a line. I cant save photos from the online program, but you can pull up all the Euro part numbers and diagrams. $3 a month for one month. You would learn alot. I can fax the photo but I cant email it.
The part number for it should be 000 141 14 25 and it is held in place by a metal strap bracket with a rubber insulator wrapped around it.
$3 for a month is fine
I should get a month
What is the throttle body though
I might not have this valve

I have the parts book & it doesn';t show it

I wonder if the euro is different & what they have dine t this car trying to figure it out in the US>

It runs prety good though
not perfect but it runs fine

So we;ll see
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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

Last edited by CamelotShadow; 09-29-2007 at 01:34 AM.
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  #803  
Old 09-29-2007, 01:32 AM
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Yes you should It is a world of help

I am fairly certain you have an ICV regardless of being a Euro or an 82 -83

I looked up the 500SEC European market. If I had the vin it would actually give me on the actual parts and options on the car with the VIN, very nice

StarTec online
http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/home.jsp
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1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red
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  #804  
Old 09-29-2007, 01:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crhenkel View Post
Yes you should It is a world of help

I am fairly certain you have an ICV regardless of being a Euro or an 82 -83

I looked up the 500SEC European market. If I had the vin it would actually give me on the actual parts and options on the car with the VIN, very nice

StarTec online
http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/home.jsp
Thanks!
Would be interested to see what you can pull up.

As for the ICV
it could be ok
just wondering why I can't find it
& maybe you are right
Its what Enriques says
Drive the car!!!

Sent you a PM


Hey its late
get some sleep

Night
Sweet Benz dreams
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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

Last edited by CamelotShadow; 09-29-2007 at 02:00 AM.
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  #805  
Old 09-30-2007, 12:06 AM
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Running Good!!!!

tarted right up after a few days
Idle started lower
so thats an improvement
but still 1000 is better than 1200 1500


Today it got a techron concentrate
to help clean injectors
Its suppose to be much higher concentratiion than what is in the pergal
chevron tech gas.

Took a drive to homedepot

got stainless screws
something called
Ideal
Noalox Anti oxidant joint compound for alum & copper connection
supposed to stop corrosion & make better contact
Wonder if I can wipe a tad on the fuse ends?


Started right uo on way home but it was tepid
Still it was tepid this week & it gave me a hard time
At the pump it was 80
& it started first try too..





Came home
she really is a pleasure to drive
& got front plate mounted only to find the MB dealer gave me screws too big to mount the plate on the bracket
or I would have it done

So I had to wire the plates to the bracket

Had to improvise on the front to get it mounted but I got it!!!

So back to MB maybe that paint will come in soon

I can't mount rear bracket til I get the right screws

I looked agian for the ICV
Didn't see it
but maybe w driving it will clean itself

I scraped bottom getting out



hope the muffler pipes are ok

Only thing strange was a shudder vibration under my seat area
Darn I hope I didn't loosen the pipe
I had that last time & Enrique had to secure it

I tell you the worse part is getting outof the garage...

Other than that the lumpiness at lights is gone



I tested the sterrin gplay a bit
the wheel seems to start to move within a slight move of wheel
so its fine


I really like driving it
really has power
& its tight

Its really nice!!!!

Special thanks to all who have helped make this possible...

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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

Last edited by CamelotShadow; 09-30-2007 at 01:56 AM.
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  #806  
Old 09-30-2007, 11:56 PM
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I believe that my MB is getting a bit better in the stalling dept, or at least I'm sorting(read learning) to decipher what is going on better. 4 times out today with the car, all had to start with the accelerator but three out of the 4 times(last three) the idle caught and stayed and didn't die.....all the way where I was going. All the way back too. Set in the driveway and let it idle a bit when I got home the first time. It idled around 1000rpm, then dropped to about 600. Then it was if a switch was thrown it went up to about 1500RPM(just like when you disconnect the ICV) then dropped back to 1000, then to 700. It rose to 1000 and I shut it off.
A few hours later I ran another errand. Car started with the accelerator but idled at about 1000 rpm by itself. 700 in reverse and in drive, but no stall again. Ran the errand and returned with no stalls. Sitting in my driveway oce again it idled around 1000 rpm by itself. I popped the hood and the fuse box lid and tapped the OPR and it didn't do anything, I tapped the ICU and it didn't shut the car down this time.(did twice before).
A couple hours later I had to go to a clients to feed and water the horses and dogs. I drove the MB. It was a short trip. It started again with the accelerator, but idled at 1000 rpm by itself, dropped to 700 in reverse and drive again, and didn't stall at the first two stop signs. The third stop sign it died. restarted like i have to start it, and it held idle until I shut it off at the clients. I was there about an hour. It died a couple times before the first stop sign. (backing out of the clients driveway and at the stop sign). restarted and the idle caught and it was fine all the way back home, to the bank and grocery and back. even idled in the driveway.
I will take off the ICV and clean it once again and lube it with WD40 and see if that helps. When the idle goes up to the 1500 rpm range it makes me believe that the ICU either shorts out or the voltage to it is interrupted, when it comes back the idle drops to 1000 or sometimes to 700.
I have put approx. 200 miles on the car. Not near enough to get all the cleaner mixed and the good gas mixed with the old gas, but making headway.
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1986 Euro 500SEC "RUF" 9:1CR, "Rose"
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  #807  
Old 10-01-2007, 02:17 AM
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Keep driving it
You have techron conc or a fuel cleaner in it?
Yours sat too

Yours sounds fuel related
or mayve OVR if its so erratic

Good thing you drive in Acton
Stalling in LA could get you smashed up
these guys drive sniffing your exhaust

Guess I'm lucky
no stalling
used to have a lumpiness at lights
but since I did those 2 vac prob
its gone...

I got techron coc in the tank
hopefully it will have a benefit..
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  #808  
Old 10-01-2007, 12:36 PM
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Parts will be here toda!

Wow, been speaking with Kevin of German Imported Parts

http://www.germanimportedparts.com/

& he admits the wiper description was a bit confusing.
He sent my order out fast as lightning on Fri & didn't get my email which I sent after closing hours est concernning the clarification of right & left wipier or right or left...

So he is sending one free & says I should get it Wed
Wow, that is fast & that is great...


WOWOW
FAST Free delivery...ordered Thursday & its on the truck to be be delivered today!




Today I think I;ll drive the car back to HD
bring the rear bracket & try some screws.

The hole isn't really threaded
its just a hole
so I am assuming it wqill take a machine screw that is appropropriate width.

I had bought 10 for the front as they didn't have 12
& 1/4 for the back

10 is too big to put the plates on the bracket
so will try 8 or maybe 6

If that don't work I;ll see if MB can get them right next time./...

Now, I will have to figure out how to get the parts on..

Etc
Do you have to rotate the engine to install the distrib cap?.

Read that you have to rotate the engine to 1?

If you put the cap on same position is was would it be OK?

OVR & fuses & air filter are coming today as well as vacumn hoses

Will have to wait for Rusty's order as thats the ignition wires & cap & rotor.

I bought a new air filter even though mine is pretty cllean but may be 4 or 5 years old..& I thought maybe the paper material deteriorates?

Anyway I wanted to start fresh but maybe I should wait til after the this tank of tecron gas is out???? Or at least til I get it cleared of sitting?

Or does it not matter?
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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

Last edited by CamelotShadow; 10-01-2007 at 01:08 PM.
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  #809  
Old 10-01-2007, 01:11 PM
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CS,
You do not have to rotate the engine to TCD # 1 to replace the distributor cap! That is for timing the car. Just use a screw driver and push down and turn 90 degrees each of 2 hold down bolt heads on the sides of the Dist cap. It lifts right off. and so does the rotor. Both have notches that will only let you put them on one way. I suggest that you do not remove the plug wires until you have the new cap in place. then replace them one at a time to show you where each one goes. The cap is numbered and I hope your plug wires have the little white bands on them with corresponding numbers to the numbers on the cap. THEN you can replace the plug wires with the new ones one at a time.
I was lucky, my wires and both ends of each were fine, no cracks on the rubber ends or carbon marks in the metal ends. I have a dist. cap and rotor on order.
I'm off on a short drive with the MB!
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1986 Euro 500SEC "RUF" 9:1CR, "Rose"
1985 Euro 500SEC Cabriolet AMG Widebody
1982 Euro 500SEL "Blue"
2001 Texas Heeler (Aussie/Queensland X) "Sulphie",
2012 Queensland Red Heeler "Squeak"
Best dogs I've ever had.
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  #810  
Old 10-01-2007, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlies84380SE View Post
CS,
You do not have to rotate the engine to TCD # 1 to replace the distributor cap! That is for timing the car. Just use a screw driver and push down and turn 90 degrees each of 2 hold down bolt heads on the sides of the Dist cap. It lifts right off. and so does the rotor. Both have notches that will only let you put them on one way. I suggest that you do not remove the plug wires until you have the new cap in place. then replace them one at a time to show you where each one goes. The cap is numbered and I hope your plug wires have the little white bands on them with corresponding numbers to the numbers on the cap. THEN you can replace the plug wires with the new ones one at a time.
I was lucky, my wires and both ends of each were fine, no cracks on the rubber ends or carbon marks in the metal ends. I have a dist. cap and rotor on order.
I'm off on a short drive with the MB!


Thats great news

I don't know if the wires are numbered but I numbered the dis boots to correspond to the distrib #
So I'll just do one at a time & since I have in a sense #'d the wires
then I should have no prob matching it to new distrib...

Got my German Import order today
nicely packed

Got my OVR & Flosser ceramicmfuses made in Germany
8a have brass metal...nice fuses
16A have copper

Yeah!

OVR is made in Hungary though???
has a 10A littel blade fuse on top
I bought a flosser 10A 32V blade fuse but littel is a good fuse

Hope the Hungary ovr relay is OK? It was $51.50 so less than the rest



They didn't have the 25 in Flosser so got 25's from Rusty...

Mann Filter in box

Hood pad is light
goodness thing folded up in a manageable box

So today is fuse day
Tomoorow hopefully the wires & dist & rotor will come with rest fuses
& vacumn hoses...



Changed all white & red fuses & OVR

Should I be upset about the Hungarian fuse
Was supposed to be Kaehler is that Hungary?

Would spend the $12 more if a german is better

Oooh
Dropped a fuse under in fuse panel box where wires are
Can't see it
That shouldn't hurt anything I hope?

Started it to see if things worked
Started fine
Got only up to 90 C
idles was about same as last time
1200 going up to maybe 1500 as it warmed
then down to about 950 in park when warm

Only thing I noted & not sure why I didn't change it last time I checked
but there was a 25A fuse in a designated 8 A spot 12
It controls the idle contro; (cruise control) instrument cluster, diagnostic, temperature -vacumn switch,stop turm signal & tach so its a heavy weight

tachs always worked so guess the rest have
but why the bigger fuse in it...

Guess I;ll know right away if it blows.

Perfected my fuse operation
got them out & in fast
brushed contacts w brass brush but they weren't corroded
all clean..

Thing is temp seemed a bit cooler
Anyway least it got to run a lil more techron thru its veins


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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

Last edited by CamelotShadow; 10-01-2007 at 10:12 PM.
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