Upgrade 83 Mer 500 SEC from 88 Volvo GLE? - Page 56 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

CamelotShadow · #**826** 10-10-2007, 11:18 PM

guess thats understandable
its been running ok
bet it runs better
well after wires are on
its going no where now...

will need to get the plugs changed so they don't mess new cap

how can u tell if the plugs r too hot?

don't know whats in there but plugs r probably old

Now I read something about dielectric grease on rotor????

No way I;m taking that off again...

???????

anti seize to screws of cap????

arrrghhh
don't think they seize too much????

I just didn't want to put antiseize or grease where it wasn't supposed to be as could cause problems???

Did I make a bad mistake?

Jim B. · #**827** 10-10-2007, 11:41 PM

Nice job with the distributor and rotor!!! You are really in the skinned knuckles club now. That car is going to be perfect. Now ENJOY it!!

I had an interesting day. I drove to Sacramento to visit a fellow from Benzworld who flew out from Ky. where he has a shop (owns 3 500E W124 hotrods) to buy an '88 US spec. 560SEC AMG. I met him at a Peruvian restaurant I had picked (only one in Sacramento)!! and we visited for about 3 hours and had a good lunch and looked at the new car. Like you he is new to the SEC but he likes it. It has the AMG body kit, no mech. mods, is black, and a Calif. car with 133,000 on it - a good car. He took some pictures for me of my car & me, so I will have a gallery soon, I hope on MB shop for people to see (I saw your gallery)

It was a troublesome morning at first. It rained some, and yesterday the oil light flickered a minute. Then went out.
Now, I had changed the oil on 04/28/07 at the local indy at about 118.970 miles. This morning I checked the dipstick and there was NO OIL SHOWING at all!!! I was horrified. SO, I found, luckily 2 1/2 quarts of oil in the garage, and put them in, and the car was STILL at the add oil mark. So I went to Autozone and bought about 4 more quarts. Put one in and it overfilled a little.

What HAPPENED? Car wasa at 119,700 this AM. Only 700 miles and over 3 quarts burned of oil. Did it settle, mechanic underfilled the oil if he changed it
or is it burning oil like crazy? Nor drips on driveway. I admit I drove only 700 miles since April but WTF???!! What happened here? I had alway argued with the Indy and said it needed 9 quarts of oil and he said 7 1/ 2. Maybe they didn't put in enough. Damn them if it is true. the car sounded a little funny yesterday on the way back from the library. Then the low oil light came on so I started the car after turning it off, then it went off.

Checke the oil this morning. I think maybe I need a NEW MB mechanic!! Mr MB maybe???!!

But I checked everything else - had not opened the hood since April. Yes My fault!!!! I know.

then went to Sacramento and back. What a wonderful cruiser at high speeds. I thought a little bit of you on the highway, because I really ripped.

I was running REAL quick, on Hwy 80, mostly from 80-105 both ways and leaving the traffic far behind, Watching for CHP all the way. No problems at all. These cars LOVE to run FAST!!!

I am sure yours would too. They are so confidence inspiring overr 80-90 mph, just unbelievable at speeds the Volvo 740 could NEVER dream of.

If only I had those new wheels. I paid for them on 08/31 and they are supposed to be ready 10/20 then shopped to the warehouse in Ind. then to CA. Now I see on the website they are delayed to mid Nov. Will I ever get them?? Pleaaaaase.

I am not going for the W140 wheels in Manhattan Beach, so I wont go to LA for them, just get the rteplicas, I was told the W140 wheels taken off the W140 will NOT fit the SEC, because the offset is 40mm, but the offset on the replicas is 23mm, perfect to the SEC. So I will keep the wheels that are on the car now, and wait forever for the new ones.

Need to get the fire extinguisher checked, filled and mounted, antenna and grommet installed, and the AC and sunroof fixed.
Touched up the bumper where I backed into a pole in Nov, so car looks ok from 10 feet now.

Next - trip to MR MB before winter, lots for Enrique to look at with the car.

Thank you for reading my rant of the day! But I had a nice Peruvian lunch and quite a romp driving the car today - 150 miles of fun!!

CamelotShadow · #**828** 10-11-2007, 12:04 AM

I hope I did ok
I held off dabbing grease on rotor &inside dis cap

Gosh could have been a bad thing
might have been good

I will grease where the boots go on plug & cap

arrgh
no anti seize on dis cap screws
they don't seem like they seize
its a big space
just a spring

OOOh well its done

Thats alot of oil to be down

You did a long trip
bad bad
you didn't check

Poor car running on low oil...

thats a big engine
9 sounds about right
guess it depends if you install filter

380 sec says 8.5 qts
YOur mechanic made a big mistake!
No excuse for that
I wouldn;t use him
thats a bad mistake!!!!!

I was worried about the offset
new wheeels don't go on the old cars

had to let them nice mb wheels go for $125
from a new car

but wheels should fit wo spacers or wahtereve

So eating peruvian delite
running muck on the freeway
while I'm bent over the sec

oh my aching back!

darn those vac hose
I can't get them all
can't get to them

not even sure those ones behind wur will be same as the vac hoses I have
some need bigger holes...

I can only do my best!!!!
I certainly am trying

cap wasn't that bad
normal wear....
so I guess the cars running ok

Now what is the electrical connection for that goes nowhere

I;m thinkg
Idle control valve

Think its gone!!!!

So how's my rotor/dis cap look?

Help Rotor...

Chadahar · #**829** 10-11-2007, 12:53 AM

Looks like your ICV IS missing! That sure looks like the plug that goes on the end of the ICV!. And that is the location of the ICV.....What is the Cold Start valve large er black rubber hose connected to? and the tube that comes out of the manifold??? Possibly hooked to each other to bypass the ICV???

Your old rotor looks used up, but the Dist. Cap doesn't look that bad. Mine was worse than that and my Rotor was worse than yours too.
All that rust on the Dist Shaft is why the rotor was hard to get off.
Don't forget to put the vacuum line back on the distributor.

Jim B. · #**830** 10-11-2007, 12:58 AM

Good job with the dist. & rotor cap. Glad you got that right. I don't know when mine was done. Will need to check. Did new plugs at 113,000 miles at the Mercedes dealer in 2004 - but no rotor/distributor cap.

Absurd. 6,000 miles in just 3 years. That is 2,000 miles a year. I need to drive it more. I think I went for a big tune up at 75,000 miles.

Maybe the mechanic underfilled it by 2 quarts of oil in April and it burned one more. Stupid SOB if he did. How many times did I told him how many quarts to put in, it is in the fricken owners manual, I told them.

Miserable small towns. Plug in your shaver and the lights on main street go dim.

Need a new mechanic I guess. My poor car.

My fault for not checking too though. This guy I have been trusting with the 1995 Subaru Outback wagon also. Oh yeah THAT one. That got all of 600 miles put on it in the last year. Less than 2 full tanks ofgas- in a WHOLE YEAR

Jeezallooooo.

crhenkel · #**831** 10-11-2007, 01:00 AM

CS,
Congrats on the cap and rotor replace. See what I meant about easy and probably needed? I knew you could do it. Dont fret about the grease on the rotor or cap or screws. Just an opinion if it needs it or not. COuld go either way and wont hurt either way. It wil be fine without.
Use the grease on the wire boots for sure, they come off easier and it protects from arcing and from moisture.
Good luck

Reed007 · #**832** 10-11-2007, 01:18 AM

Camelot, been following your adventures. I bought a 560 SEC about 6 weeks ago so I am going through the same thing. I'm still trying to figure everything out. About the dielectric grease and anti-seize - put the grease on both ends of the wires. It will keep moisture out and it should be easier to take the wires off later. You can put the anti-seize most anywhere that you want - BUT, be sure to put them on the spark plugs. This is especially important with aluminum heads. Steel and aluminum together will cause corrosion. It will make the plugs much easier to remove later on.

Have fun with your car, I am.

CamelotShadow · #**833** 10-11-2007, 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Charlies84380SE

Looks like your ICV IS missing! That sure looks like the plug that goes on the end of the ICV!. And that is the location of the ICV.....What is the Cold Start valve large er black rubber hose connected to? and the tube that comes out of the manifold??? Possibly hooked to each other to bypass the ICV???

Your old rotor looks used up, but the Dist. Cap doesn't look that bad. Mine was worse than that and my Rotor was worse than yours too.
All that rust on the Dist Shaft is why the rotor was hard to get off.
Don't forget to put the vacuum line back on the distributor.

I kept saying I couldn;t find the ICV!!!!
With all the ignition wires bundled there I never saw that empty socket!!!

I can get to vac behind wur better but still might not be able to do those..
LOL

I'm still trying to trace the lines from the vac hoses

Seems there is supposed to be a tri behing thedist area
I have a quad..one of those goes to the distr valve
one goes to the green/yellow air inject valve which goes to the intake
one comes up from below
I don't know where it comes from
the last of the quad goes to behind the WUR
where there are 2 double ports comingout of the intake or is that throttle body..not sure what its called..

None of the quad behind the dis area goes to the warm up reg that I can see...

I;m not done with the wires so left that hose off
I recut & replaced that tube

That cap is still usable
have seen worse myself in pics
no bad corrosiion

I have a new one $37 so why bother w the old
just kept it to look at the markings...

will have to figure out how the car is set up as its non stock??/

CamelotShadow · #**834** 10-11-2007, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reed007

Camelot, been following your adventures. I bought a 560 SEC about 6 weeks ago so I am going through the same thing. I'm still trying to figure everything out. About the dielectric grease and anti-seize - put the grease on both ends of the wires. It will keep moisture out and it should be easier to take the wires off later. You can put the anti-seize most anywhere that you want - BUT, be sure to put them on the spark plugs. This is especially important with aluminum heads. Steel and aluminum together will cause corrosion. It will make the plugs much easier to remove later on.

Have fun with your car, I am.

Hi...yeah aventures of Shadows SEC...The mini series

I will add dig to boots of plugs & boots to cap
planned on that
just wasn't sure if it should have been on contact of rotor & contacts under cap

Might not have been good
since I didn't hear much about it
I opted to do the safe thing

I can try to get some antiseize on the cap screws least bottom
I bought that for the plug threads as I am aware of the alum heads
& thats not a contact
thats a thread

not sure I;d want to put antiseize on a contact point
might mess w electric
They have no corrosion compound for joining wores to alum etc
I even have it
mayube I should have put that on rotor shaft?
make it easier to get off
then again the stuff I have is sort of a paste & it could harden & make it worse

It;s done
I have no desire to uno the job for that

I'll get a lifetime use out of that cap & rotor

CamelotShadow · #**835** 10-11-2007, 01:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crhenkel

CS,
Congrats on the cap and rotor replace. See what I meant about easy and probably needed? I knew you could do it. Dont fret about the grease on the rotor or cap or screws. Just an opinion if it needs it or not. COuld go either way and wont hurt either way. It wil be fine without.
Use the grease on the wire boots for sure, they come off easier and it protects from arcing and from moisture.
Good luck

Thanks!
Good for you for having such faith
I had my doubts here & there
I just went slow & did alot of grunting & heavybreathing
Maybe even a few choice words whispered under my breath

Took an hour just to get the boots off the cap
Couldn;t do it w my hand
went for my good tool.
bit of wiggle & pop off they came
Still took me a while to figure the method out...

Cap is a breeze
but rotor

darn rotor
guess I was afraid
& I didn';t want to twist
but now I read twisting is ok
didn't want to mess with the rotation

Guess it would have geen good to lub the rusty dis shaft
make the rotor slip on easier
I just didn't know if the grease would impede good contact

I don't know these things
so just trying to err on safe side...

Did Ok
I got the new ones installed...

CamelotShadow · #**836** 10-11-2007, 02:04 AM

Just wondering if anyone knows if vacumn tubes are color coded?

I have some
red
blue
yellow
thicker black

I had a red to dis vac
I cut a blue one as its all I have

It was a small piece & I could get to it so I replced it

Just wonering it the color helps trace it
as all those that go to the quad except for the yellow & green can valve are red lines?

Suppose the car doesn't care
just might be easier to trace lines?

There are black ones behind WUR
they come from far behind 7 ru along intake manifold...

CamelotShadow · #**837** 10-11-2007, 02:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim B.

Good job with the dist. & rotor cap. Glad you got that right. I don't know when mine was done. Will need to check. Did new plugs at 113,000 miles at the Mercedes dealer in 2004 - but no rotor/distributor cap.

Absurd. 6,000 miles in just 3 years. That is 2,000 miles a year. I need to drive it more. I think I went for a big tune up at 75,000 miles.

Maybe the mechanic underfilled it by 2 quarts of oil in April and it burned one more. Stupid SOB if he did. How many times did I told him how many quarts to put in, it is in the fricken owners manual, I told them.

Miserable small towns. Plug in your shaver and the lights on main street go dim.

Need a new mechanic I guess. My poor car.

My fault for not checking too though. This guy I have been trusting with the 1995 Subaru Outback wagon also. Oh yeah THAT one. That got all of 600 miles put on it in the last year. Less than 2 full tanks ofgas- in a WHOLE YEAR

Jeezallooooo.

Sounds like alot of oil to burn
I guess I don't use my car enough to burn oil between changes...

I hope your car is OK & it forgives you...

They rely on us
We rely on the people we pay good hard earned money to do the job right.

Small town big town
there's good n bad in both

Since you hadn't used car much
it was an oversite

but I guess one should try to check fluids before a long trip...
not that I have had one of those in a few years..

CamelotShadow · #**838** 10-11-2007, 02:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Charlies84380SE

Here is a picture of where my ICV is located on my 380SE.

I see the connector
looks same
same place too

whats behind it
I have an upright cannister
maybe its a different sort of icv?
Still what happened to whatever the connector was attached to...

Jim B. · #**839** 10-11-2007, 02:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CamelotShadow

Sounds like alot of oil to burn
I guess I don't use my car enough to burn oil between changes...

I hope your car is OK & it forgives you...

They rely on us
We rely on the people we pay good hard earned money to do the job right.

Small town big town
there's good n bad in both

Since you hadn't used car much
it was an oversite

but I guess one should try to check fluids before a long trip...
not that I have had one of those in a few years..

Lots of wisdom there from from the Shadow..

I guess I learnt a lesson today. I got away with it this time. I guess the car needs a new mechanic. I think I heard it outside tonight crying for Enrique.
Maybe I got a 2nd chance.

I really need the new wheels on it before I take a long trip. I really need to go to Mr MB in LA or somplace as good (of which I think there is none at least for 100's of miles of here)

Ahhhhhhh, it never ends, does it?

I think you need a trip in yours someplace nice too. It would be good for you and the SEC. They are so great on the open road, you will love it, especially with tunes playing that you like

Well g/night. I hope you wake up refreshed, no aches. Sounds like you overreached today

CamelotShadow · #**840** 10-11-2007, 04:09 AM

Thanks...
Yeah, I did have a long back breaking day

Hope I get it finished tomorrow
but with rest fuses & vac

I got a day or 2 left
Want to try to do as many vac hoses as I can while ignition wires are pulled away.
Still its not been easy

Night