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#1
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Help Engine Still Does Not Run
Here's what I have checked.
1) I pulled valve cover and cheched cam marks to TDC mark on damper. Everything was dead on. 2) check firing order and distributor cap spark plug wiring and timing. 3) swaped ignition control module engine behaved the same. Here what I have managed. If I spray enough starting fluid I can get engine at a low idle somewhat. So I know I have spark and spark timing working O.K. Leads me to fuel and air. As for fuel got new fuel distributor but no change. The engine is acting like it's getting way to much air, Problem started when I was adjusting idle air screw. Is it possible that the air valve is suck open? What happens if air valve is suck open. I know how to go about checking fuel pressures just didn't have time to do so. But how does one check air or air valve? where do I go from here? |
#2
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Where you go from here is to check system pressure and control pressure and see if you are getting fuel, like I spent a fair amount of time explaining to you a few days ago. Whether or not you have enough time is irrelevant to finding out what the real problem is.
The idle air screw does not affect the lean the mixture. If you screw it out, it increases the amount of air at idle, which in turn increases the amount of fuel, which in turn raises the idle speed.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#3
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Quote:
I am just baffled why before when I first got car I could pour gas into the airflow meter and car would run like a banji. This was with a completely clogged fuel system and a bad fuel pump. It just seems to me I should be able to recreate the engine running with just fuel poured in like before. |
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