This is like doing brain surgery, very precise movements.

I planned on this project this week, see how it goes along with the Honey-do-list .

I`ll do a follow up how we finish up.


Arther< do you need another one of those 2 wire sensors like I sent you last yr? found another one.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

[quote=Arthur Dalton;1972653]
Don't guess on differentail bearing loads ..I have seen too many in the dumpster b/c of foolish nut tightening w/o regards to load.
[quote]

I have seen failures due to tightening the pinion nut with an impact wrench.

Hello,

I'm in the process of replacing my seal.

However, measuring the axle load is confusing. I can turn the whole assembly with my hand, and doesn't register on my torque wrench either its so easy.

Whats the scoop, any input would be appreciated?

My Mercedes book tells me that the tightnening of the nut should be at least 180nM [133ft/lbs] over and above the torque to turn the wheels.

In another note anybody tried to get this &$#@*& nut off its incredibly tight. I have impact wrench but I'm hesitant to use it because of the possible damage to the axle and its bearings.

Gavinbr

I've heard from several sources that impact type driven sockets should NEVER be used on a pinion nut.

For those of you that want to use the FSM procedures please note that according to that document the force required to move the pinion should be measured with the rear brake pads removed AND the rear suspension at normal ride height.

__________________
98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (137K)
13 GLK250 (157k)
06 E320CDI (341K)
16 C300 (89K)
82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K)

You need a very small torque wrench, typical values for turning torque are only 3-5 inch/pounds.

I have a small "beam style" wrench that measures 0-12 inch pounds, works great.

__________________
98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (137K)
13 GLK250 (157k)
06 E320CDI (341K)
16 C300 (89K)
82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K)

Arthur,

So lets assume you have measured the torque as 12 inch/lbs, now what?

How do you put it back? This is terribly confusing!

According to my mercedes manual [Offcial Mercedes manual] is says tighten to 180Nm. If that can't be attained a new crush washer is required?

Sooo, why not just crank it to that number? Or, Are you saying that on the way to tightening the nut to 180 Nm, it shouldn't take more then the 12 inch/lbs to turn the pinion, the original example measurement. In other words, if after tightening to 180Nm the inch/lb reading now shows 25 inch/lbs to turn the axle, you tightened to much? Does that make sense?
I'm probably repeating what you have all ready said.

If I can get it off, nobody has given me any suggestions how. My nut is easy to put back where it was before because, the end of the nut is flush with the small protuding pinion shaft sticking out. Some people have said count the number of threads to put back, mine has no threads showing.

In an other note, if you decide to put new nut back on, guess what, Mercedes don't have the original style, the have gone to a "splined" nut versus the four prong style. Thats another tool you have to purchase. I purchased a four prong tool that's readily available on the internet. I broke the 1st one trying to get the @#$%^ thing off.

What about the impact wrench for removal???

Whats the scoop here.

Gavinbr

This a note for those doing the rear pinion nut removal and installation.....

I finally got my holding nut off my 300D Euro.

I used a pinion shaft nut remover socket [special order] to remove it.
Don't buy the cheap one from "JTC tools" #1615 this broke the first go down.

I used a three foot bar on my socket it was sooooo, tight.
You will need to have somebody hold the socket in place while this accomplished.

I then torqued up to 180NM and or where I had marked before removal to get the correct loading.

Brian

Here is a video to get an idea of how to check the preload with an inch pound torque wrench before removing the flange. Forward video to about 2:08 minutes for the procedure. Setting pinion bearing preload on the Ford 8.8" axle - YouTube
After installing the new flange tighten a new nut down to the same preload spec and strike it in place.


.

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

You are best off coating all of the teeth - there is likely to be some uneven wear as it probably wasn't made absolutely perfectly in the first place. Take a look at the "average" contact position around the whole crown wheel and make your assessment / judgement from that.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

OK. 3 days from now i will have the diff at home and i will try what we discussed. @ Stretch - If you found the time to measure friction with entire diff assembly installed I would be very grateful.

I don't think that's going to help as the one I'm working on is for a W201 and there will be new wheel bearings as well as new bearings in the differential...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Good point. If I could only remove the differential from the housing...
I would have to have two special tools - one for spreading and other for measuring spread so I can go back to zero spread after reinstallation.
How about heating the housing? Would that be enough to get the left and right axle outer bearing circlips out?

@Stretch - I see in your w201 diff thread you managed to get the differential assembly out without expanding the housing. I will try that.

That's the ticket - it pulls out nicely on the W123 differential as well (with worn bearings). You just need to be a little bit careful when putting the circlips back in because you should in principle be stretching the case - but it is a very small amount.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Awesome video:
Differential Ring and Pinion Gear Setup - YouTube