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  #16  
Old 09-17-2001, 04:35 AM
David C Klasse's Avatar
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Why is it not showing the PICTURE!?
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Transmission Questions-transmodadj.jpg  
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2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #17  
Old 09-17-2001, 09:41 AM
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The modulator is the black device on the left. The pressure point is where you put the gauge to read pressures. You aren't going to need that unless you loose track of how much you are turning the mod adjustment.

BTW, the picture is of the early modulator without antitamper cap. If you look closely one can see that the adjustment key fits into castellated housing. On the new style the castellations are in the cap and nothing holds it with the cap on.

Yes the 201 and 202 chassis are a bummer to do this adjustement. Some relief can be had by lowering the rear trans support if you get in a bind.

The adjustment I am suggesting will increase mod pressure and system pressure as a result. Firmer shifts. The amount I am recommending is about two times the amount that the anti tamper cap will allow. This cap can be turned about 3/8 turn without removing it. If you can do this in the clockwise direction you might try that first. I don't think it is enough. I also would want to look into why, if you need more than 1.5 turns to suit your taste.

The link I sent should have picked out the 722.3/4 data index. Check out the part about necessary procedures for rebuilding, full of tips.

I just tried it and it does bring up the index I wanted. The search engine say Acura but ignor it unless you want a different field. The rebuild minimum (do or die) is the item I refer to above. All the items on that index refer to the 722.3/4 trans.
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Last edited by stevebfl; 09-17-2001 at 09:48 AM.
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  #18  
Old 09-17-2001, 10:10 PM
David C Klasse's Avatar
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Thanks Steve!

I was successful in adjustin the modulator pressure. I turned it 3/4 turn clockwise and I noticed a difference, especially on hard shifts.

I broke the cap as you said I probably would, is it necessary I get a new one? No big deal, just wondering.

Also, I notice that when shifting, the next gear seems to 'catch' stronger. The release of the previous gear, ex 2 (in 2-3 shift) still seems the same. But it is MUCH better now.

Steve,
What is the other adjustment (cable?) I should make?

Thanks again!!!!
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2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #19  
Old 09-18-2001, 09:49 AM
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Yes, you should replace the cap. If it should fall off the adjusting tee will possibly fall out. The part is 126 987 07 45 and lists for $.70.

The other adjustment is where the cable attachs to the throttle linkage. Ther are a number of different arrangements but basically lengthening the cable housing in effect shortens the cable and visa versa. Shortening the cable makes shifts later. I suspect that making your shifts earlier could improve things but that depends on what happens now that the shifts are firmer. Since kick-down shift points aren't affected by this adjustment shifting earlier doesn't necessarily reduce performance.

Make your adjustments small and try things in both directions slowly (drive for a while in between to get a feel).
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  #20  
Old 09-18-2001, 03:25 PM
David C Klasse's Avatar
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Thanks Steve, I know what you mean (about playing around with it).

First, what will adjusting the shift points (earlier) do?

Secondly, how do you do this?

Thanks again!


Was driving on the fwy home and that shift from 3-4 under hard acceleration is SO precise now!

Thank you so much!
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2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #21  
Old 09-19-2001, 08:00 AM
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Thumbs up

steve,
i am still putting my "new" 93 300e-2.8 through its paces and as noted in my previous posts just got the kickdown switch working again. my question is about the kickdown shift points that you mention. i noticed that at lower speeds, say 30mph or so, it shifts out of 2nd at about 4k rpm while at higher speeds say 50mph or so it kicks down and heads toward redline. is this the normal pattern? where are adjustments made if possible?
this thread has been very interesting for me, thanks much!
cheers
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  #22  
Old 09-19-2001, 09:57 AM
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In the kickdown position a valve is openned in the trans that dumps governor pressure (or some such). This activity superceeds the normal balance of control pressure against governor pressure on the shift valves.

When one's foot is not on the floor the shift point is determined by the control pressure mostly and somewhat by the modulator pressure. In other words shift point sare regulated by throttle position until kickdown. At kickdown the shifts are determined electrically by rpm.
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  #23  
Old 09-19-2001, 10:03 AM
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i was describing the different observed behaviours with my foot to the floor and the kickdown switch activated. it appears that the upshift points are different depending on how fast you are going, at least in my car. i guess the question is whether the electronic controls take speed or other factors as input to determine shiftpoints...
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  #24  
Old 09-19-2001, 03:43 PM
David C Klasse's Avatar
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Steve,
What will adjusting the shift points (earlier) do?
Secondly, how do you do this? Thanks a bunch!

JSmith,
Do you want to know all of the points where the car should switch from one gear to the next? (In kickdown and without?).
Like Steve said, the trans uses vacuum to know when to switch gears. The 722.6 was fully electronic though.
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2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #25  
Old 09-19-2001, 04:11 PM
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J,

I'm still not sure what you are talking about but here are the book shift points for a 124.028 car:

Full throttle 1 to 2 - 50kph

Kickdown 1 to 2 - 64kph

Full throttle 2 to 3 - 102kph

kickdown 2 to 3 - 112kph

full throttle 3 to 4 - 173kph

kickdown 3 to 4 - 180kph

All shifts from selector lever position "D"
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  #26  
Old 09-19-2001, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Full throttle 2 to 3 - 102kph
kickdown 2 to 3 - 112kph
this sort of shows what was happening. maybe i wasn't hitting the kickdown when i floored it at about 30 mph because it downshifted then upshifted at 4k rpm. when i floored it from 50 mph, it downshifted then raced towards redline , i didn't wait to see when it upshifted but it was at around 5k rpm. that's the only scenario that makes sense because otherwise it appears that it should have shifted at the same rpm/speed if i was hitting the kickdown switch....
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  #27  
Old 09-19-2001, 09:58 PM
David C Klasse's Avatar
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JSmith!
Yes, that could make sense! You can floor it and engage kickdown, and then release kickdown but still be @ wide open throttle, thus you won't get the redline shift into the next gear. Plant your foot down hard and keep it there and lets see what happens.
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2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #28  
Old 09-19-2001, 10:21 PM
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i guess i better move my radar detector over from my old ride, more road testing ahead...
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  #29  
Old 09-23-2001, 07:35 PM
David C Klasse's Avatar
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Quoted from SteveBFL:

"The other adjustment is where the cable attachs to the throttle linkage. Ther are a number of different arrangements but basically lengthening the cable housing in effect shortens the cable and visa versa. Shortening the cable makes shifts later. I suspect that making your shifts earlier could improve things but that depends on what happens now that the shifts are firmer. Since kick-down shift points aren't affected by this adjustment shifting earlier doesn't necessarily reduce performance.

Make your adjustments small and try things in both directions slowly (drive for a while in between to get a feel)."

Steven, I'm sorry to bring this back up, but can you be a little more specific on how I adjust this? Thanks a bunch. BTW, I love the slightly firmer shifts... really noticeable and the shifts feel much stronger when accelerating hard. Thanks again!
__________________
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #30  
Old 09-23-2001, 08:17 PM
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David,

I don't remember each cars specific adjustment. You will have to follow the cable to where it meets the throttle linkage. I think yours will have a 13mm wrench size plastic nut where the cable housing is attached. You should unscrew it to make the housing longer and the shifts later.

Since you seem to have the original problem improved I probably would suggest making the shift later. This will improve your downshifts also (allowing them at higher speeds).
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