A new car will solve the problem.

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1981 300TD
2005 C55
2004 E500
1999 ML430
1992 400E
1998 C43
2001 SL500
1988 300SEL
1986 190E 16V
1991 190E 2.6

That falls under "complete systems" category.
But if you buy me a new Benz I will definitely award you the $50.
Now let's get back to the challenge here

Did you check the vacuum hose situated UNDER the whole fuel distributor assembly? That one is hardest one to get to and is often forgotten about. I would assume you have since you have done the air assembly boot which would require you to pull the entire thing off.

When you say temperature sensor, which one are you referring to? There are two. One is for CIS, the other is for the instrument cluster.

EDIT: I don't see an EZL on that list. That is the ignition brain so-to-speak. You may want to make sure its not overheating first and then maybe grab one at the junkyard...shouldn't be more than $20.

__________________
2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Everything under the air meter is new, new boot, new adapter and new hose to ICV.
I replaced three temp sensors actually. Once for the CIS, the cluster and the fan clutch.
I put back my EZL after I swapped it temporarily from one I got at the junkyard. No difference.

I was going to suggest this one but after reading from the beginning, I see someone beat me to it. I just had a 300E drive me nuts and it was that sucker. Good Luck.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

The Professor has changed so many expensive items he just about does have a new car - at least in the engine management systems.

Professor. When you say you have tested items for spec was this statically or did you actually change the items and run them in the car with the same results? e.g. throttle control switch, EHA or throttle micro-switch.

I tested according to Bosch/Mercedes specs for CIS. Some were with the engine off and some with engine on. The throttle control switch was tested offline with an ohmmeter to make sure that it made contact upon closing then it was tested connected and power one where I measured voltage as I hit the throttle hence opening the switch. It's consistent.

What is the idle speed?

Since everything else checks out im thinking you might want to check the torque converter.

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

However, did you physically remove it and check for wear/dead spots on the surface? That thing can cause a lot of weird issues when worn....

I vote for that, or a malfunctioning EZL unit (on the fender)....as was mentioned earlier, it would be a cheap and easy swap with a junk yard one. In fact, the yard by me has two 190e 2.3's in it right now, I'm available to pull and sell/ship them if wanted.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Idle speed while in park is around 800 but when in gear and at a stop it's 600 or even 500 and when in gear and at a stop the economy gauge is 1/4 of the way in which my 560 SEL doesn't do at all.

I did open the spare one to check the rheostat path and it looked like normal wear. Not perfect but no spotting.

i think 79Mercy got something; does your car have a lockup torque converter? had a nissan sentra that would stall...the converter wouldn't unlock at times (computer fault not mechanical)....but i am not even sure if yours has a lockup converter

My first thought when I read this was the EZL. I have replaced several of these- They usally go completely out , but I did have one that did somthing similar to this.
Also check your coil. Make sure the leads going to it are not shorting out on the side of the coil. I had one that someone had worked on and had pushed the wires down far enough to touch the side of the housing.

__________________
Do it right or dont do it at all!

They do not have a lockup converter.....I don't think MB starting using those until later (like '95-96+....)

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

That suggests a vacuum leak, doesn't it?

I've heard of fuel injector seals leaking air badly enough to produce rough running in K-Jet cars.