That suggests a vacuum leak, doesn't it?

I've heard of fuel injector seals leaking air badly enough to produce rough running in K-Jet cars.

i think 79Mercy got something; does your car have a lockup torque converter? had a nissan sentra that would stall...the converter wouldn't unlock at times (computer fault not mechanical)....but i am not even sure if yours has a lockup converter

My first thought when I read this was the EZL. I have replaced several of these- They usally go completely out , but I did have one that did somthing similar to this.
Also check your coil. Make sure the leads going to it are not shorting out on the side of the coil. I had one that someone had worked on and had pushed the wires down far enough to touch the side of the housing.

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They do not have a lockup converter.....I don't think MB starting using those until later (like '95-96+....)

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I remember when working in the tropics back in the seventies.
The job required series II Land Rover 6 cylinder versions. These cars had a lousy location for the coil - too close to the exhaust manifolds and under a leak spot off the hood. You needed to carry a spare coil around for rainy days or for going on long trips. Mountainous areas required to carry 2 spare coils and when they all 3 heated up they required an ice water soaked rag around them to keep them going.
When they were too hot - no go.

The moral of this story is that electronic components function differently under operating conditions than they do on the bench. That is why I inquired whether or not the components were actually changed out and run on the car rather than just a static test.

I did another fuel pressure test now that I have a new fuel accumulator in the line. The fuel pressure on the main line did not go over 4 Bar. I think I am going to close this chapter and competition and call it fuel pump problem. It's new so I called the vendor and this time they took my car's serial number. Guess what, I had the wrong pump all along! A whole year of misery and all it was is the wrong part.
Thanks guys for your input.

You may want to look at one more thing. I had a simular problem that I chased for a couple of months. There is another symptom going on at the same time which made it harder to sort out, but when I finally got to the bottom of it, all it required to fix it was adding a lock washer and tightening a nut. The car would be driving fine then would stall and be completely dead. After a minute or two it would come back to life start right up and run fine. A number of members pointed me toward loose battery cables, and when I checked them they were clean and tight. I never noticed that the B+ wire was attached to the positive cable with a nut until much later. When I did, I found out that it was very loose, not even finger tight. I took it off, cleaned the wire and the stud, and the spot on the inner fender where it connected to the rest of the wiring harness, then reassembled everything with new nuts and washers and lock washers and the problem has never returned. I still have the other stalling issue on initial startup but I think I'm closing in on it.

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2000 Mercedes S500
1990 Mercedes 560SEL
1970 Triumph Spitfire

No chance it will be my battery terminals. The battery is new and I have disconnected and connected it over and over with no issues.
Right now I am going to wait on the fuel pump, install it, test the car then start another chapter in this stalling saga.

That's what I said. Every other car I can ever remember either had the B+ coming off the starter or molded into the main battery terminal. I never saw one that was nutted to a stud on the terminal before. Boy was I surprised when I finally saw it.

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2000 Mercedes S500
1990 Mercedes 560SEL
1970 Triumph Spitfire

I am of the opinion that taking a Bosch injected vehicle to a dealer or indie is a mugs game. Most of the dealers and indies in my city send the cars with injection problems to a Bosch franchised injection specialist. These guys only do one thing - Bosch injections. They have all the technological equipment and know how - inherently more knowledge than the average mechanic.

A full service, system adjustment, system clean-out, and diagnosis costs around $ 150.00 at the Bosch specialist. He will then inform you of suss items. AND they know exzactly what they are doing.

Haphazardly trying to guess what is going wrong with a KE injection system with a multitude of expensive individual parts can lead to an expense much more than the sum of the problem as indicated at the start of this thread.

At least the professor has replaced do much on the injection system that he should have no real problem for years - caveat - after it is tuned properly with the correct equipment.

Hmm I never thought of that myself. I may actually do what you said and take my wagon in that has idle issues. Thanks Ivan!

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Is your problem still the miss at idle?

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

I am going to assume your issue is fixed.

For others having this nagging issue.

* I suggest you give the throttle body chamber and Idle Air Control Valve a good cleaning.

* The signal to start - run the fuel pump goes through the OVP relay, which has been superseded due to random thermal failure issues.

* The fuel pump relay has on many models been superseded three times due to random thermal failure issues.

* The Crank position sensor can experience thermal failures that match your symptoms.

* Try measuring system voltage, perhaps the charging circuit or battery is so weak that it can't operate the electronics correctly. Failing batteries cause no end of havoc, and the notion that just because it took a charge and started the car must mean that the battery is good is false. Test it to be sure

Here are some rather odd issues that have happened to me many times, and could match your symptoms.

Owner of a 1991 300E and looking for a cliff.

103 Stalling and not starting when warm...

Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum - View Single Post - 190E 2.6: While running/driving, engine "stalls", tach dies, BUT.....

MBWorld.org Forums - View Single Post - Help! My 190E 2.6 keeps stalling when hot!

As a last resort, you can read the Epic Saga "stalling thread", it's over 194 pages long.
Stalling Again - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum



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you may require an adjustment on the throttle plate sensor . the two inserts on the side can be pried out and under it will be 4 screws . mark the orignal position for reference and the adjust about 2 millimeter on the up side then on the lower side .test in each position

hope this will help.
mak
300se

Crap in the fuel tank...