Can anyone give me a clue on location of crankshaft position sensor and where/how to check it? My manual says check for resisitance 680-1240 ohms. Where would I check that? Thanks

I changed my plugs a few weeks ago, before I started reading these threads. I used platinums and now I am seeing that was not a good thing. I just ordered oe Bosch plugs and hope to install them in the next day or two. That would be great if this were the problem, but i doubt it.

I just went and check the rear Camshaft Position Sensor and the plug looked pretty new. The resistance on the plug was 882 ohms, within the specs of 680-1240 I have in my manual. I have been trying to not buy parts for this things on a guess. So anyone else out there have any ideas?

It has a brand new OVP and I have checked Vaccum lines.

Needless to say I found the sensor. BTW

So to re-cap, you've got a rough idle and your car wants to die everytime you come to a stop? Sometimes it starts right up after dying, other times it doesn't; is there any connection to how long you've been driving the car or it's operating temp when it comes to the difficulty you have re-starting it?

Does the rough idle occur regardless of operating temp? In gear or out?
What's the ambient temperature where you're at?
What do your plugs look like? White & ashy or black & sooty?
Have you tested your throttle position sensor?

__________________
A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

Thanks for the response. It started as a rough idle. It then would die after coming off the gas. Then it had a weird surging issue. Even if I had my foot to the floor on the gas it would just surge at 15 mph. Now it just dies when I come off the gas sometimes. It is always hard to start after it dies. Car is turning but does not start. I wait a few min and it starts right up.

I try to let the car warm up before I drive it because of a click I have coming from then engine that goes away after it warms up. So it is always warmed up when it shuts off. If fact it even shut off once after I let it warm up with the hood open after I shut the hood.

I am in Atlanta so temp has ranged from 60-80. It has cut out in gear and out.

I will try and get you a pic of my plugs but the new ones have only been in a month or so. These are the platinums I am switching out.

I do not know how to test my throttle position sensor so I have not done it.

In addition to the things you mentioned. I am also getting a CEL that was intermitent before I put in a new OVP. After that it would turn on about a minute or two after turning the car on and stay on. I tested the computer and was getting 17 blinks on pin 3 and 2,3,4,5,12, and 13 blinks on pin 14.

Thanks

Silly question - how much gas is in it, and is it quality gas? Is this an intermittant problem or does it die all the time, making it undriveable?

Also, to clarify, it idles roughly at all engine temps, but ONLY dies when it's at operating temperature?

I'd listen to the pump first - you should hear a continuous "buzzing" (sort of) noise that doesn't go up or down; no sucking, gurgling, etc. Check your idle air control and make sure that's working. Since it only dies when it's hot, check your engine temp sensor and all of it's connections. Make sure your EGR valve isn't stuck open.

I don't have your FSM in front of me, but if it's like most throttle position sensors, the resistance should change smoothly as you slowly move the throttle (if connected directly to it with an ohmmeter). If you have a DVOM & backprobes, it'll be the voltage signal that changes.

Plugs can cause problems, but new plugs shouldn't cause the problems you describe. If you've got the "pedal to the metal" and it's only going 15mph, you've got other problems.

__________________
A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

There is about 1/4 tank of gas and the last tank I got was 93 octane from a BP. It seemed to be a legit station.

It is intermitent. In fact after I changed the OVP I thought the problem might have been solved. It drove for about 3 days and was fine beside the CEL.

Idle has kind of smoothed out. It ether works or it doesn't now. It is cutting out at temp and is hard to restart.

As far as fuel pumps. I got under the car and had my wife put the key to the on position. The pumps started up and then cut out after a few seconds. I assumed they wouldn't keep running with out the car running.

Can you give me some direction on the engine temp sensor? Also how would I check to see if the EGR is stuck open?

I will check the throttle. I should be working on it the rest of the afternoon.

I actually meant listen to the pump with the car running...

__________________
A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

Oh ok I will do that. I can't now though. I was switching out the fuel filter and didn't realize the new one was wrong. So now I have no fuel filter and have to find a new one.

Does anyone know how to test a temp sensor? Mine is blue and has two pins on it.

You need an ohmmeter (or DVOM with resistance capabilities) and the appropriate chart.

If no one comes along in the meantime with what your values should be, I should be able to post them later tonight.

Needless to say, if it's reading 0 or infinity, it's probably bad.

__________________
A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

Finally got the new plugs and fuel filter in. I will be putting them in tonight or tomorrow.

I tested the 2 pins on the temp sensor and it is coming back zero. I am assuming that is bad.

EDIT: If you have a 2 pin sensor, you should be reading pin-to-ground, not pin-to-pin. The 2-pin was supposedly phased out in 9/89. What does your connector look like? Is it a fat connector with space for 4 pins or is it two seperate connectors?

Of course, alldata is showing a 4-pin sensor, not a 2 pin, and WIS shows both. Are you sure you're checking the right sensor? I'm showing one for the gauge and the one for engine control - the one for engine control is near the back. Wiring diagram also shows 4 pins (2 resistances); should be 2.2-2.8Kohms @ 68degF.

If you have the 2 pin connector and a bad ground, that could easily cause bad readings to the CIS & EZL, because ground is what it's using instead of the other 2 pins.

__________________
A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

The one I tested is between Cylinder 4 and 5 on the drivers side of the engine and is blue with two pins coming out. Do you know what that is? It came back as 0. That is strange it looks the same as the one I saw on an online store for the coolant sensor.

I just pulled the larger plug at the back of the engine. It has four pins. I will test that one as well.

Thanks

Sorry tested pin to pin. I will test to ground

Honestly, no clue what you tested.

__________________
A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.