Same '96 E320. Yesterday I did some housekeeping under the hood because it was really dusty and dirty under there. I must have gotten something wet in the process. This morning when I went to drive the car, it started right up and seemed to run fine until I got to about 25 mph. The engine rpm then went down to 1000~rpm and the dash display popped up with an ASR message. After pulling over, I shut the engine off and restarted it. Once again it started right up and seemed to run perfectly until I got back up to about 25 mph and then it did the same thing. Any idea what I might have gotten wet to cause this?

Christine

Didn't you see the "dry clean only" label?

Sorry- have no idea...hope someone else does....

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Learned the hard way myself, did an engine wash an the car, a Mitsubishi Galant ran like crap , I blew compressed air in and around the engine, car ran much better, did not do that again.

Did any dash lights come on? It does sound like the car went into limp mode but you should have a light on. Let it dry out I guess. Just let it idle for 10 minutes then try it.

I did this on the same engine you had. I used water and learned my lesson. You will probably have to remove the plastic that covers the spark plugs, pull all the boots out, and blow compressed air in there. Chances are they are pooled with water. Check engine light?

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93 300D 2.5 Turbo, Black/Palomino 273K
09 E350 Black/Black 41K

Use a shop vac to pull water out of the plug wells. I had this prob once and continue to power wash the motors of other older mercs but am careful not to spray directly on the electronic devices and wiring bundles, fuse and relays etc....

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1981 300TD
2005 C55
2004 E500
1999 ML430
1992 400E
1998 C43
2001 SL500
1988 300SEL
1986 190E 16V
1991 190E 2.6

Well, I pulled the plastic plug cover off and removed and inspected the plugs while I was in there, but it didn't appear to be damp in there at all. I also pulled numerous connections apart under the hood and blew them out with compressed air, but the issue still persists... even worse now maybe. The ASR message comes up immediately when the engine is started now and it won't come up off of idle. If the accelerator pedal is pressed at all, the engine stalls. HELP!!!

Christine

I have limited experience of what I consider to be modern petrol engines (yep I'm getting old) but whilst living in probably one of the dampest parts of England I used to spend many a happy hour cleaning and driving out muck and moisture from electrical connections with WD40 (Do you get that where you are? It is a sort of multi-purpose light machine oil).

Just keep going with the WD40 you'll probably find the culprit in the end.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I dont think that engine was susceptible to the bio-degradeable wiring harness. Having a car in that general vintage is tough. You could have gotten the EA (electronic accelerator) wet. Those things are known to go. I have a spare if it comes down to being that! Buried inside it is a potentiometer that routinely goes bad. Maybe that got wet. Its my assumption thats what it is, since ASR light comes on before movement.

You really should have the codes read. even though the check engine light isnt on, the ASR will store codes.

A brake switch (above brake pedal) is always good insurance with ASR equipped cars. They are cheap and easy to install.

Good luck.

p.s. It should still be drivable after the ASR goes into limp mode and cuts 50% of your gas pedal. You just have the push harder. Your transmission will feel like its malfunctioning but thats normal in limp mode.

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93 300D 2.5 Turbo, Black/Palomino 273K
09 E350 Black/Black 41K

That's just it, the engine won't come up from idle at all once the ASR warning comes on. I'll have to have the codes read tomorrow afternoon after work.

Another thing - I discovered a fuel leak just in front of the driver's rear wheel also. Must be the pump or filter I suppose. After I get all of these problems corrected, I think it'll be time to trade this one in. I've put as much time and money into it as I can at this point.

Christine

Turn it upside down and shake the water out. I'm bummed for you Wish I knew. BTW then...how are we suppose to clean our Mercedes Engines? By hand?

Most Mercedes engines are fine to wash but the 104 isn't one of them. Moisture gets down near the spark plugs and carbon tracks the outside of the ceramic insulator and shorts the plug. You should remove the 3 spark plugs under the coils and check for carbon tracking even though this isn't likely the ASR problem. If you find any carbon tracked plugs you should replace the connector on the coil also. An ASR issue after getting the engine wet points to a throttle actuator problem. Whether it's the actuator, it's harness, or the connecting harness will have to be diagnosed. If you search "throttle actuator" here you will probably get more than you want to read.

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90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff

I will, thank you.

Christine

I've had a similar problem with my 91 300TE.

Turned out to be the distributor to coil wire. I got a couple of tips from Phil and a length of ignition wire. Now, periodically the tip near the coil carbonizes and it needs to be cut and re-crimped to the ign-wire.

I think that when the tips begin to get carbonized, the starter takes a longer time to start the engine and as a result the added pressure causes the weak point in your fuel supply to weep a bit.

Christine, as far as I know the fuel pump and fuel filter are located in front of the right rear wheel. It's odd that a gas leak would be in front of the left rear wheel.

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Fred Hoelzle