Fellas,

A few months ago, my car was diagnosed with a bad fuel distributor by an independent garage. It was idling rough and hesitated during acceleration. So I had it fixed. After getting the car back, it ran fine for the first 5 minutes, then back to the irregular idling.


The mechanic told me that this was due to my dirty injectors. After installing the fuel distributor, the mechanic told me that my engine started to surge. This was partially solved by cleaning out the injectors.


A few days ago, my car now experiences weak idling. Everytime I press on the gas, the car dies. I spent nearly $1000 fixing the fuel distributor and the problem does not go away. The independent garage warrenties their work for 12 months or 12k miles.

Would it be unreasonable of me to take it back to the mechanic and have him fix the REAL problem? Please help me. I almost jumked my car for another brand.

-Regards,
Vu
'85 190E 2.3

I've had a few 190E's in the family, and have found them pretty reliable cars, but they do have their problems. One problem can be a mechanic not intimate with MB cars. These things are not "most" cars.

(Seen those ads? $39.95 muffler, most cars)

You need to take the car back, and see if he can repair it properly without charging you your last remaining arm and leg. And no matter the outcome, start asking about for some leads on someone that won't give you back a broken car. My indie mechanic test-drives cars to ensure they are working properly before returning them.

I don't have an answer for you concerning this particular problem. I do wonder if OVP was a problem back in '85? Hhhmmm...

__________________
John Shellenberg
1998 C230 "Black Betty" 240K

http://img31.exs.cx/img31/4050/tophat6.gif

My wife was driving her 190e and it suddenly shut down. Car was towed to a shop where they spents weeks trying to determine the problem. They were ready to put on a new fuel distributor on when I said "woe Nelly!" and had the care towed home. I checked all the electric connections for the fuel injection system and found the wire to the temperature plug at the front driver side of the cylinder head was broken. Replaced the line. Also had to replace the O2 sensor because it had become fouled (from overly rich mixture??) and car ran fine since. It sould have been a 50 cent repair. From now on, if a car breaks down it will be towed home and I will review the manual and this website and attempt a DIY repair before I send it to another tech.

__________________
David
'00 Mazda MPV Family's car
'83 300D 235,000
'84 109E 175,000
'74 280C 125,000 in garage; needs rehab or sell for parts???

If the fuel distributor is changed, I'd recommend changing the injectors and plugs at the same time.

I would have the entire fuel-system checked starting with the fuel lines and pumps/relay. Then have a look at the idle control valve. If you suspect its the OVP, have an alternative OVP plugged in and observe the engine behaviour before paying for it.

__________________
... Kerry

126 tailed by a 203, 129 leading the pack.

Guys,

I took the car in and got it back. Now it's running just like new! The problem were the injectors. Lesson learned: Try changing the cheap stuff first, then moving on the more expensive stuff. With 270k miles, it'd be reasonable for injectors to go out. Now hopefully, the car will take me another 270k miles!


Thanks to all,

Vu

Ther could have been an even cheaper solution. The first time rough idle is seen, use a double dose of Chevron Techron in the tank, run it almost dry, change the filter and oil to a light weight synthetic, followed by another oil change with short interval.